North Peak Climber's Log
[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
|PrestonRhea||North Couloir |
Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2011
|Soloed the central couloir, tagged the summit, downclimbed the right couloir, then soloed up the left couloir to descend off the back. Fun day.|
|Posted Sep 9, 2011 7:01 pm|
|dkangas||north couloir |
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2010
|Good conditions, though I wished I had two tools for the ice in the couloir.|
|Posted Sep 8, 2011 2:11 am|
|bryangast||North West ridge |
Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2011
|Rain threatened but fun climb. Ridge was more class 4 than 5.3 as some have reported.|
|Posted Sep 4, 2011 5:12 pm|
|seano||North right couloir |
Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2011
|A warm night made this a total slush-fest, but when it's in, the North-Conness combo would be an awesome alpine day.|
|Posted Aug 28, 2011 2:52 pm|
|mrchad9||NW Ridge |
Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2011
|Up the northwest ridge after Shepherd Crest earlier in the morning. Really enjoyed the scrambling, views, and picking our way along the route on this one... one of my favorite routes.|
|Posted Aug 22, 2011 1:51 pm|
|blueshade||NW Ridge |
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2011
|Sweet scramble. The gaps were fun to cross and the short ridge getting onto the west face was briefly exposed and made for cool pics.|
|Posted Aug 12, 2011 6:00 pm|
|GigaMike||From Roosevelt Lake |
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2005
|Climb up from Roosevelt Lake part of backpacking trip through Yosemite.|
|Posted Feb 4, 2011 3:19 pm|
|Shane Rathbun||Approaching storm |
Date Climbed: Nov 18, 2010
|Attempted to climb with Mark Strahan but didn't end up leaving the parking lot due to an approaching storm. Tuolumne was DEAD and we ended up making it out just before they closed the 120.|
|Posted Dec 6, 2010 3:53 pm|
|Tom Fralich||North Couloir (Right) |
Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2010
|Met up with a friend from NYC, Raphael Falk, to climb this route. We got started a bit late and ended up behind two parties, but managed to duck most of the falling debris by staying to the right. Ice was a bit brittle, but straightforward climbing. Rock scramble to the summit was good fun and great views from the summit. Descent was longer than I expected.|
|Posted Sep 27, 2010 12:05 pm|
|b_betts||North Couloir |
Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2010
|Great ice conditions!|
|Posted Sep 26, 2010 8:59 pm|
|rhyang||North couloir (rightmost) |
Date Climbed: Sep 24, 2010
|Swapped leads with Chris Gibson -- 3.5 pitches of good ice !|
Route climbed: NW Ridge
Date climbed: 15-September-2010
Did whole thing this time. Beautiful late summer day.
Date climbed: 5-July-2008
Route climbed: NW Ridge (sort of)
Hiked up to the glacier to check out the couloirs, took some pics, then traversed over and across suncupped snowfield to what I think was the 'second impasse' (see route page).
Straightforward third class up to ridge. I didn't feel up to staying on the ridge itself (left leg is still weak and shaky), so I traversed right to something that felt more like third, then did the rest of the slog to the summit.
Flawless day. From the summit saw some guys heading down the right couloir on skis.
Route climbed: Left couloir
Date climbed: 30-Sept-2006
Soloed left couloir on good neve, to about 45-ish degrees. Two sections in the upper part were melted out - these seemed about third class in current conditions. Slogged on sand up from left couloir exit to summit scramble and took the class 3 easy way up to the southwest face. On top by 9:15am.
Amazingly, the bottom half of the right couloir still looked like neve (didn't see top half). Wanted to avoid getting caught in the weather coming in - it was gusty with clouds. Otherwise, a great day to be out.
Route climbed: Right couloir
Date climbed: 10-Sept-2006
Started from Saddlebag Lake around 5:40am, got up to glacier by 7:30, and started climbing by 8. Right couloir was completely neve - I was amazed that there was no ice at all visible.
However, the bergschrund was open all the way across the couloir, about 10-15 feet I would guess. Seemed easiest on climber's left, so up I went. Maybe 75 degrees ? (looked steeper to the right) The only ice present was at the bottom of the schrund, so the rest was solid neve, making for excellent pick placements. I would guess that if / when the couloir becomes all ice this year that this schrund will be less of an obstacle (?)
Once in the couloir conditions were excellent and laid-back neve. Possibly ice will form this year first in the runnel a bit left of center.
Got to the notch about 9:15. Headed up the rock scramble from there, and did the 'direct finish'. I initially thought this was 4th class, but maybe it was low fifth (like there's a difference :) Spicy in ice-climbing boots ... got to top around 10:25.
Saw Misha/Etsuko/Pavel's log entries, and added new notebook to register. Weather was simply impeccable and the views tremendous. Saw the third-class gully on the descent (oh well, next time :) Back to car by 12:15pm.
Route Climbed: Right Couloir
Date Climbed: 23-October-2005
Climbed with John. Arrived at the glacier around 8:30am, simuled up the first pitch (mostly neve with a few patches of ice poking through). Not much of a bergschrund this year, but what there is mostly on the left side of the couloir. Started pitching out shortly before 10 where the ice started.
I led the first pitch, John led the second, and I led the last half pitch or so, belaying off a boulder from the top. The ice was hard and brittle. Last 10-20' was neve. We had the couloir to ourselves the whole time. Weather was pretty much perfect.
Exited the couloir around 1:40. We thought about heading up the summit scramble, but by then John was more interested in getting a beer, and I figured some ice cream would top off the day pretty well.
Also climbed right couloir two other times in October 2004 (mostly good blue ice) and August 2005 (partly still snow).
|Posted Sep 25, 2010 3:08 am|
|Blackmouth||North Couloir |
Date Climbed: Sep 21, 2010
|Climbed with Forjan. This was my first Alpine Ice lead. We soloed the first pitch of neve and completed the climb in a total of 3-60 meter pitches. The route was in shape and a great first ice lead. We caught the 2:15 water taxi for a relaxing finish to a great day. Did it in about 10 hours with help from the boat.|
|Posted Sep 23, 2010 1:56 am|
|gordonye||SW Face |
Date Climbed: Sep 18, 2010
|Fun day hike leading some novices. Summited with Edward. Gorgeous views all the way.|
|Posted Sep 20, 2010 6:05 pm|
|ChuckO||NW Ridge - solo |
Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2010
|Pretty reasonable route. Not quite a "pull your hair out and scream at the moon" classic. :-) None the less, a good solo route. Celebrated with Fish Tacos - how nice!|
|Posted Sep 15, 2010 9:24 pm|
|Darren9||N Couloir is great |
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2010
|North couloir was neve on the bottom half of the route and the top half was ice with a thin strip of snow on top. Great route and area, the scramble to the top was fun too.|
|Posted Aug 23, 2010 3:54 pm|
|wmolland||SW Face |
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2010
|A fun easy hike from Saddlebag. Awesome views of Conness all the way. Great spot.|
|Posted Aug 13, 2010 4:15 pm|
|mlarkin2002||Dayhike SW/SE chutes |
Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2010
|Dayhiked with derbilly, up and down the SW/SE sides.|
|Posted Aug 6, 2010 10:43 pm|
|BCL||SE Chute |
Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2010
|From Saddlebag Lake. Fun dayhike.|
|Posted Jul 30, 2010 12:50 am|
|boyblue||SW Face Route |
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 1987
|Fun easy dayhike from Saddlebag Lake. Mt. Conness and glacier look very impressive from this route.|
|Posted Jul 25, 2010 4:45 pm|
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2009
|Got lost, scrambled up the hog in Spantiks. No ice today!|
|Posted Dec 30, 2009 9:24 pm|