Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: July 8, 2002
According to Secor, the Northwest Ridge is 5.3, but it seemed more like Class 4. After bagging North Peak, I continued on to Mount Conness via its North Ridge. Car to car in 4:55. (BTW, the North Peak summit Register is full).
Route Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: July 7, 2002
Great climb. Very asthetic route. the couloir was a little soft. We got started on it at 9:30, and though it was in the shade, it was quite mushy. All in all a beautiful and very enjoyable climb though and the water taxi makes it very easy as a day trip!!!
Route Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: July 2001
Crampons, surely feel strange for the first time. SInce, then I am so psyched that I get high just thinking about it. B$ took me to climb that, and I can't have enough of it...I loved using the ice-axes...(Suddenly, I felt all mighty and powerful, ego -boost)
Route Climbed: Left and right couloirs Date Climbed: Aug/Sept, 2001
Did the right couloir in August (nice neve) and the left one in late September (nice neve with occasional water ice). Didn't summit in September since we had just been up there, Both are nice climbs, with the left being a bit steeper.
Route Climbed: North Couloir...and North Ridge Date Climbed: June 1999, Sept 2000, July 2001
Very nice couloir. Conditions range from a no crampons, step-kicking romp in spring, to a fairly strenuous two tool, front pointing outing in the late fall. Took someone this year who put on crampons below the schrund for the first time in her life. Man was she psyched after 700 feet of hard styrofoam later. Check out the 2 couloirs to the left too, middle one is ugly, but left is nice (and steep).
Also, N Ridge is good, only climbing of any consequence in a 5.8 or so 15 boulder problem coming out of a deep notch. You can probably avoid it by heading down west of the ridge a bit. Most is fun 4th class. Swing on over to N Rdige Conness for a great day.
Route Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: October 22, 1994
Highly recommend this route for anyone wanting to do their first ice climb. The approach is relatively short,spectacularly beautiful and the climb itself is easy and fun with objective danger pretty low. When we did the route there was ice on the first pitch and then we moved to the left side of the couloir which had consolidated, hard pack snow, which made for faster climbing and belay set up faster by just plugging in our axes to the hilt for belay anchors. Enjoy the area, it is beatiful and stays moist late into the season when most other areas have dried up and died.
Josh - Jul 8, 2002 4:19 pm
Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: July 8, 2002According to Secor, the Northwest Ridge is 5.3, but it seemed more like Class 4. After bagging North Peak, I continued on to Mount Conness via its North Ridge. Car to car in 4:55. (BTW, the North Peak summit Register is full).
EthanV - Jul 8, 2002 9:42 am
Route Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: July 7, 2002Great climb. Very asthetic route. the couloir was a little soft. We got started on it at 9:30, and though it was in the shade, it was quite mushy. All in all a beautiful and very enjoyable climb though and the water taxi makes it very easy as a day trip!!!
jeffn - Apr 3, 2002 7:55 pm
Route Climbed: Various Date Climbed: MultipleOn Snow or dirt, a good day hike. The boat ride on the second half of the trip home is a bonus.
Nandini - Dec 24, 2001 11:40 am
Route Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: July 2001Crampons, surely feel strange for the first time. SInce, then I am so psyched that I get high just thinking about it. B$ took me to climb that, and I can't have enough of it...I loved using the ice-axes...(Suddenly, I felt all mighty and powerful, ego -boost)
crackclimb - Nov 1, 2001 10:47 am
Route Climbed: north ridge Date Climbed: sept. 1999tried to do the conness crest, but got lightninged out. what a great day though!
mconnell - Oct 14, 2001 1:05 pm
Route Climbed: Left and right couloirs Date Climbed: Aug/Sept, 2001Did the right couloir in August (nice neve) and the left one in late September (nice neve with occasional water ice). Didn't summit in September since we had just been up there, Both are nice climbs, with the left being a bit steeper.
Bob Burd - Oct 9, 2001 9:54 pm
Route Climbed: Southeast Slope Date Climbed: Sept 22, 2000An excellent scramble. Headed out from Saddlebag Lake, up North Peak, across to Shepherd Crest, to Excelsior, and returning. A long day! Trip Report
brandon - Oct 9, 2001 5:04 pm
Route Climbed: North Couloir...and North Ridge Date Climbed: June 1999, Sept 2000, July 2001Very nice couloir. Conditions range from a no crampons, step-kicking romp in spring, to a fairly strenuous two tool, front pointing outing in the late fall. Took someone this year who put on crampons below the schrund for the first time in her life. Man was she psyched after 700 feet of hard styrofoam later. Check out the 2 couloirs to the left too, middle one is ugly, but left is nice (and steep).
Also, N Ridge is good, only climbing of any consequence in a 5.8 or so 15 boulder problem coming out of a deep notch. You can probably avoid it by heading down west of the ridge a bit. Most is fun 4th class. Swing on over to N Rdige Conness for a great day.
ron - Oct 8, 2001 7:59 pm
Route Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: October 22, 1994Highly recommend this route for anyone wanting to do their first ice climb. The approach is relatively short,spectacularly beautiful and the climb itself is easy and fun with objective danger pretty low. When we did the route there was ice on the first pitch and then we moved to the left side of the couloir which had consolidated, hard pack snow, which made for faster climbing and belay set up faster by just plugging in our axes to the hilt for belay anchors. Enjoy the area, it is beatiful and stays moist late into the season when most other areas have dried up and died.