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littlefrantzlovely in Nov  Sucess!


snow is super hard so ice axes were helpful!
Posted Nov 8, 2009 3:46 pm

JHH60North Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2007


First alpine ice climb. Turned from snow into blue ice 1/3 of the way up. Fun climb!
Posted Nov 2, 2009 11:21 pm

RootsN. Couloir Conditions Update  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2009


My partner and I just climbed the North Couloir. It was a good time and we had it to ourselves. The bergshrund was still covered. Ice on most of the route with the exception of firm snow at the very bottom (below 'shrund), a section in the middle on the right side and at the top where the angle backs off. Have fun...
Posted Sep 23, 2009 7:58 pm

granjeroNW Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2009


Great first alpine solo. Fun easy moves with views of grandeur!
Posted Sep 8, 2009 6:53 pm

granjeroNorth Couloirs  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2009


Climbed left and right north couloirs. Brought skis and snowboard (seriously both) to descend right couloir on snowboard (in ski boots, hilarious), left one on skis. Came back a week later with just snowboard, rode both left and right couloirs. Classic!
Posted Sep 8, 2009 6:51 pm

cp0915NW Ridge (5.3)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2009


A terrific day out with DB and Double-A.
Posted Aug 23, 2009 4:06 pm

WMLNorth Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2009


Super fun route, nice scrambling at the top. Fun couloir beneath the Class 3-4 scrambling.
Posted Jul 30, 2009 1:37 am

kovarpaDid the middle couloir this time  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 23, 2009


good fun, as always. continued on to Conness.
Posted May 26, 2009 4:52 pm

RogersNorth Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2008


Good ice and a great days - views were clear out past Half Dome to the west.
Posted Dec 13, 2008 1:01 pm

NoonduelerEarly bird  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2007


First time was July 2000. Second time I got up and down before noon with great views, clouds and nice lighting.
Posted Nov 4, 2008 11:59 pm

tb00957NNW ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2008
This is mostly class 3 with three impasse on it. Don't need gear, I used rock shoes for one. Totally fun.
Posted Oct 6, 2008 4:49 pm

Shirley LamNW Ridge...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2008

Shirley Lam

Then kept on the ridge from North Peak to Conness. Fun ridge and great views! It was great to go light and do it car-to-car in a day.
Posted Aug 26, 2008 4:47 pm

cbuelowSE Chute  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2008


Hiked up solo from the dam. Took the SE chute up and came down the SW face. Lovely day exploring the turquoise lakes below the Conness Glacier. Couldn't have asked for better weather ...

Btw, the notebook placed by rhyang in 2006 is almost full...
Posted Aug 24, 2008 11:48 pm

traverpenSE chute
Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2005


Took the right chute instead of the left and regretted/enjoyed it.
Posted Aug 23, 2008 11:58 am

Fredd C DobbsSW Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2008

Fredd C Dobbs

Very nice day. I summited @ 1:30 pm- A gentleman named Greg Dephilipps was there earlier & signed in @ 10:00 am. Weather report said it would be "breezy"- That was quite an under-statement around the summit area.
Posted Aug 19, 2008 10:10 pm

Fred BagniNorth Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2008

Fred Bagni

Climbed with my buddy Patrick from AZ. His first couloir. Ice was excellent. It looked like it was all neve from up to the bergshrund. But, could not have been more wrong. Patrick is now hooked on couloirs... Climbed it in 3.5 pitches. Simuled the passed the berg.
Posted Aug 17, 2008 11:26 pm

NefsekRight Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2008


Second ice climb after Dana, ice was perfect, weather was perfect. Couldn't ask for anything better...
Posted Jul 28, 2008 12:46 am

Zhenya77North Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 18, 2006


It was a perfect October day. from the Trailhead we proceeded quite fast to the bottom of the North couloir. Lettle roping exercise was quite short. The clib itself was no longer than 40 min. Nice practice before attempting anything more technically challenging
Posted Mar 10, 2008 8:20 pm

forjanLeft Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 1, 2007


My friend Luis and I climbed the left couloir while Pavel and Misha were getting on the right couloir. It snowed lightly all day and it was butt cold: temperatures hovered anywhere from single digits to lower teens. However, the ice was pretty nice. We got a late start. Started the first pitch at 11:30am. We skipped the summit (short daylight, blowing snowing in your eyes and cold drove us out) as we topped out just before 3pm.

Route Climbed: Left Couloir
Date Climbed: September 16, 2006

Started from the Saddlebag Lake parking lot at 6:30am. Solo the left couloir in 45 minutes. Summited North Peak at 10:15am. Stayed half an hour there before going on to the north ridge of Conness. Descended the standard east ridge of Conness via Alpine Lake. Back at Saddlebag Lake at 3:55pm (~ 9.5 hrs roundtrip).

Route Climbed: NE Right couloir
Date Climbed: September 5, 2005

Climbed with awagher. We took my 60m rope, 6 ice crews, set of nuts and various slings and cordolettes. Conditions (as of 9/5/05) were as follows: Pitch 1 was all easy neve. Then, the remaining 3 pitches were all surprisingly hard water ice. The last 40 feet (before you top out) on pitch 4 was neve again. The 'shrund this year is lower down on the left side of the couloir. It hasn't opened up across yet. Get on the couloir on the right side. Took us about 5 hours to climb the 4 pitches. Because we had a late start (didn't get on the couloir 'til after 10am) and lack of sleep, we decided to skip the summit. Now, the left couloir of North Peak looked like it was all neve, however, 2/3 of the way up it has a 60 foot section of rock all across (must climb rock 60 feet and then get on neve again).

Route Climbed: NE Right couloir
Date Climbed: October 4, 2003

A mini-epic day! Climbed the right NE couloir with Alex. We started hiking from Saddlebag Lake at 5:05am. We reached the bottom of the snow/ice patch around 8:40am or so. This is where we geared up. Unfortunately on this Saturday there were several parties climbing the right Northeast Couloir ahead of us, so we had to wait and take our turn. We actually started climbing at 9:45am despite the ice chunks coming down from the climbers above. I led all the 4 pitches as Alex had trouble with his right foot boot/crampon combination. I got hit by a softball-size ice chunk on my right rib cage that took my breath away for several seconds at the top of the 1st pitch.

After that, we still dodged several ice chunks but fortunately we didn't get hit anymore. We mostly climbed the right side of the couloir. Except for a small section on the middle of the 2nd pitch, most of the ice was brittle as a result of the previous climbing parties chopping tons of ice down the couloir. It was a bowling alley with Alex and I being the bowling pins. I finally did reach the notch at the very late hour of 3:50pm. Another 40 minutes would pass before Alex topped out. We took a half-hour break at the notch eating, drinking and putting away tools and crampons. We started climbing the class 3 rock chute to the summit at 5:05pm. I reached the summit 25 minutes later at 5:30pm. I did my usual class 4 variation just directly below the summit by climbing the class 4 20-foot section chimney there on climber's right. We got down to the notch, picked up our gear and descended the SE chute down the Conness Lake area. It was almost 8:30pm by the time we got back to the car at Saddlebag Lake: 15.5 hours roundtrip car-to-car = a mini-epic day!

Route Climbed: NE Right couloir
Date Climbed: October 13, 2002

We climbed the right NE couloir of North Peak. Camped close to Cascade Lake Saturday evening. We climbed unroped 'til the bergschrund. At this point we roped up, and my partner (Mark O'Brian) led the pitches. We climbed the couloir on the left side. The right side had about 3" of snow on it and was not totally consolidated. My partner used 2 ice tools, and I used 2 ice tools, too. Placed a combination of rock pro (left side of couloir) at most belay spots and ice screws (and additional rock pro) for pitch protection. We used a 60m rope and it worked out to 4 pitches for us. We encountered 2 other climbing parties; each with a party of 3. One party of 3 climbed roped up with fixed belays (like us) and the other party of 3 climbed unroped each soloing (the unroped party: each of them had 2 ice tools and did a combination of front-pointing as well as pied troisieme). We reached the notch (elev ~ 11,960') around 1:00pm. We unroped, took crampons off and headed for the summit through the class 3 rock chute. I did a small class 4 variation by staying to climber's right 20 feet below the summit. Reached the summit at 1:25pm. Descended part of the SE chute and cut across back to Cascade Lake to pick up our camp and hiked out to Saddlebag Lake parking area.
Posted Jan 20, 2008 12:26 pm

MishaCcccooooldd!!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 1, 2007


Climbed Right Couloir with Pavel on a bone chilling day (0-10F). We were climbing with full packs with the aim to continue to the North Ridge of Conness. That did not materialize due to blizzard conditions. Descended to Conness Lakes in vanishing light and bivy'd there. Fun, only different...
Posted Dec 20, 2007 11:27 am

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