Route Climbed: Left and right couloirs Date Climbed: Aug/Sept, 2001
Did the right couloir in August (nice neve) and the left one in late September (nice neve with occasional water ice). Didn't summit in September since we had just been up there, Both are nice climbs, with the left being a bit steeper.
Route Climbed: North Couloir...and North Ridge Date Climbed: June 1999, Sept 2000, July 2001
Very nice couloir. Conditions range from a no crampons, step-kicking romp in spring, to a fairly strenuous two tool, front pointing outing in the late fall. Took someone this year who put on crampons below the schrund for the first time in her life. Man was she psyched after 700 feet of hard styrofoam later. Check out the 2 couloirs to the left too, middle one is ugly, but left is nice (and steep).
Also, N Ridge is good, only climbing of any consequence in a 5.8 or so 15 boulder problem coming out of a deep notch. You can probably avoid it by heading down west of the ridge a bit. Most is fun 4th class. Swing on over to N Rdige Conness for a great day.
Route Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: October 22, 1994
Highly recommend this route for anyone wanting to do their first ice climb. The approach is relatively short,spectacularly beautiful and the climb itself is easy and fun with objective danger pretty low. When we did the route there was ice on the first pitch and then we moved to the left side of the couloir which had consolidated, hard pack snow, which made for faster climbing and belay set up faster by just plugging in our axes to the hilt for belay anchors. Enjoy the area, it is beatiful and stays moist late into the season when most other areas have dried up and died.