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OverviewAlthough tough and long, it is the easiest way to the Summit of the Second Highest mountain in Europe - Dykh Tau. This mountain is not very often climbed because of its high technical difficulty - two or three teams to the top per year. North Ridge as it is easiest route is always used for descent no matter which route was climbed up. This route is objectively dangerous.
Getting ThereFrom Bezengi BC follow the trek by the left side moraine towards the far away Bezengi wall. Trek is marked by cairns. After 1,5-2 hours turn right to the Glacier and by its middle part walk up for one more hour approximately. Look for the big spring going down from the right slope of the valley, this is the landmark. When you see the spring - turn left and climb the grassy bort of moraine. Then first by not steep grassy slope and higher - loosy and extremely shitty scree slope (danger of rockfall in upper part) walk directly up to to small saddle where the ridge turns to the left. Bivouac is on the South side of the Ridge. Space for tens is limited - 4-5 tents maximum. From Bezengi BC 8 - 10 hours
Route DescriptionFrom the Russian Bivouac look for the safest bridge to the glacier and carefully walk up (crevasses) turning slightly to the right (on your left you can see big rock with waterfall). be careful of the huge crevasses where the glacier is getting steeper. From here begins the most dangerous part of the route exposed to the rock and icefalls.
Climb the 12-15 pitches of moderate ice (30-40 degrees) to the Saddle
between South Ridge of Misses Tau and the beginning of the North Ridge
of Dykh Tau. There are some possibilities for bivouac on the Saddle
but it is better to continue the route to the Bivouac VCSPS, from
which the Summit can be climbed. From the Saddle follow the wide and not very steep ridge for 8-10 pitches, then it becomes steeper (to 60 degrees). Depending on the season and weather it can be ice, packed or soft snow. Be careful of cornices and in some parts of avalanches.
Bivouac VCSPS is located behind huge rock at the altitude of 4800m and is very exposed and uncomfortable place. The space for tents is highly limited, only two small tents.
On the next day continue climbing the ridge which is not very steep in total, but there are short sections of very narrow and steep snow/ice ridge. The crux is 10 meters high quite difficult rock at the altitude of 5000 meters which can be climbed directly by the face or by its right side. From this rock there is long and narrow but not very difficoult ridge which leads through some variation of snow and rocks to the Summit. From the Bivouac VCSPS 4-8 hours.