The north-eastern Route to Elferspitz / Cima Undici is far less popular than the one through Haiderscharte / Forcola della Muta in the south. Part of the route is hidden in a valley between Zehnerkopf and Grubenkopf, which can be reached only by crossing a small saddle. Thus it is invisible from the trailhead at the Schöneben / Bellpiano Ski Runs. Moreover, from this side there are no signs for Elferspitz / Cima Undici, all point to Zehnerkopf / Cima Dieci.
The ascent along the north-east ridge / north-east face (the ridge is so wide you can call it a face) is very steep. Moreover, the underlying rock is brittle and covered by scree so that difficult situations can occur. Being a north face route, often the path is hidden underneath a snow cover at which times the route can get dangerous.
Getting ThereThe main page describes how you can reach the village of Rojen and the Schöneben ski runs. In summer you may not but can use the road to the upper station of the ski-lift.
Route Description- Start altitude: 2087m
- Summit altitude: 2926m
- Prevailing exposure: N
- Type: Hike and Scramble
- Protection: None
From the Schöneben / Bellpiano ski lift follow the marked trail in direction Haideralm / Malga della Muta. After a few steps a sign points to Zehnerkopf / Cima Dieci. The trail follows the maintenance road of the upper ski lift all the way up the slow. It heads onwards above the ski lift for some 200m before turning left sharply right underneath the Zehnerkopf north face. The path heads back east, surrounding Zehnerkopf in a quarter circle before heading up to the saddle between Zehnerkopf and Grubenkopf. In this section don't follow the Zehnerkopf signs but stay in the valley underneath.
From the saddle follow the narrow hidden valley to the east of Zehnerkopf's south ride. The valley ends, weher the south ridge route joins from above and heads into a large cirque, called "Zwischen d'Köpf", the cirque which is surrounded by the three mountains of the Rojen sundial. Here follow the marks which lead up to the Elferspitz north-east ridge from the east.
This final part of the ascent heads across scree covered steep rocks and is the most difficult and exposed part of the climb. The ridge / face is 300m high and close to the top exposure gets significant.
Essential GearHiking gear is sufficient. In snow and ice conditions, which can occur even in late Spring or early autumn crampons might be needed.
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