The North Ridge is a simple ascent, but because of its length and loose rock, is not entirely popular. The route looks much more difficult than it is from a distance. I've met many climbers turning around at the base of the ridge, (after a 4+ mile approach). Avoid obstacles on your way to the summit by switching and winding back and forth from one side of the ridge to the other. A long hike on the icecap leads to the summit dome. Ice cap has had several small crevasses in the past.

Getting There

Approache to the North Ridge - North Cleaver begins on the Killen Creek Trail 113. The trail leaves Forest Service Road 2329 just south of Killen Creek Camp. Follow the Killen Creek Trail to its juction with the PCT, where Killen Meadows Trail 110 leads to Killen Meadows. Camping in Killen Meadows is popular but often crowded and environmentally destructive. Bivouacking higher up, on snow, ice or the scree fields is suggusted to reduce impacts on Killen Meadows.

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Route Description

Currently being constructed
Rockfall hazard. Class 2.
I recommend flagging or GPS marking the route where the ridge meets the icecap so one can find the correct descent route if whether impedes viability.

Essential Gear

Once on the ridge it's a long dry climb, so carry enough water. The good thing is that the North side does not cook you in the sun until high up.

Most all of the route is rock, scree and soil. Crampons are not neccesary. I wouldn't recommend it but if climbing at night carry plenty of light.

External Links

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