North Ridge

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 41.69390°N / 78.92921°E
Additional Information Time Required: One to two days
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: Class 3
Additional Information Difficulty: AD
Additional Information Grade: II
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

The North Ridge of Pik Emma provided the route of the the first ascent, made in August 2011. It climbs a wide couloir on the west side of Pt4561, before gaining the ridge proper. The ridge is broad and relatively flat at first, but becomes increasingly narrow and steep as it heads south for one and a half kilometers over Pt4760 to the summit.
Pik Emma North Ridge route


Getting There

From the caravans in the Djangart valley, continue along the old mining track for around half an hour, before findng a suitable point to drop down to the river. The river becomes very difficult to cross later in the day, so it is advisable to get there before 9 o'clock in the morning. Look out for cairns marking one possible crossing point, though these will be visible to the eagle-eyed only! Having crossed the river, keep as close as possible to it, as the ground here is less undulating and the fauna less prickly. A good advanced camp can be made at the northern end of the Akogoz glacier, next to the Akogoz river, which is fairly easy to cross in the morning.

Route Description

Gaining the Ridge. Having crossed the river, head towards the widest couloir on the west side of Pt.4561. Make use of grass terraces at first, so as to avoid the loose ground for as long as possible. Eventually, it is necessary to battle up the couloir on loose rocks alone. There is the occassional section of good rock, but this is largely unpleasant. There are several sub branches to this couloir, which should be avoided (each leading to a dead end). Just before energy and morale has completely dried up, a small niche will give access to the snowy ridge. Due to the first 500m of the ridge being broad and fairly flat, the snow here can become very soft later in the day. If this is the case, there is little point in continuing and teams might be best to consider a bivy at the top of the rocks (2 hours).
Gaining the north ridge up loose and unpleasant groundLoose ground on the west side of Pt4561.

North Ridge. This ridge runs south south east for one and a half kilometers until reaching the summit of Pik Emma. At first, the ridge is broad and rises gently. After 45 minutes, the ground steepens towards Pt.4760, an elegant sub summit with spectacular views across to Pik Emma and Pt.5371.
Looking across to Pik Emma from the north during the first ascent Looking across to Pik Emma from the summit of Pt4761
Point 4760. A secondary summit along the north ridge.Pt.4760

From Pt.4760, descend mixed ground to a col. A short rope is advisable here, though the ground is never too difficult. Now begin the ridge proper towards the summit. From this point, the ridge is much narrower and in sections steepens to 55 degrees. Some rocks present moderate obstacles along the way, though there is no sustained difficult ground. When the ridge narrows towards the summit, the west side provides the best option for proceeding. Take care, as the top of the west face is a steep snow slope.
Summit of Pik Emma. First Ascent. Summit with north ridge behind.

Descent. Returning by the same route would seem to be the saftest option. We made a descent of the west face, but this proved to be extremely dangerous and difficult. Finding a way down the final cliffs to the valley was extremely difficult and the abseils required the sacrifice of plenty of gear. Sigh!
Looking for a way down. Descending the west face is NOT advisable.Looking for a way down at the bottom of the west face
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Essential Gear

A very light rack will suffice, as the route is never especially technically difficult.

If a descent of the west face is planned, bring 2 x 60m ropes, a snow stake and some size 2 cams. This is not advisable though.

There is a good chance of a bivy being required due to the snow softening early. Therefore, appropriate gear is advisable.

External Links

Facebook. Djangart Ascents


Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.

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