Why have local guides fixed any equipment on this route? It is a classic of the golden age of Alpinism, not a modern desperate lacking in protection opportunities.
This smacks of local guides trying to sell mountaineering as a risk free sport for all. It is not! People should accept that to do a route you should have gained the relevant experience prior to attempting it, not try and reduce it to your level for your instant gratification by adding extra equipment to it.