While not to be considered fully comprehensive, this is a much better description of the route.
We started at the lowest point of the saddle and went mostly horizontal on the crest at Class 4/low 5. Probably can avoid parts of this dropping left or right. Continue to the "rap" at a brief knife edge that ends with a difficult 10' DC. (I'm generally a very good down climber and I didnt like the look of it.) Backtrack a mere 15-20' and DC ~25' on Class 3/4 to the EAST and reclimb to the narrow saddle with a big flat wedged rock. Low Class 5 pull up move to get onto the wedged rock.
Some ~Class 4 scrambling to the crux east facing face pitch. This has one piton at the hardest and most exposed part. There is little for hands and the feet are semi secure but sloped. We had rope but I would probably solo if doing again. HOWEVER, failure means likely sliding down and then falling over a cliff. Not recommended unless VERY confident.
Shortly after the crux it gets a bit more vertical but is never exposed- steep steps on continuous enjoyable Class 4+.
At a narrowing in the ridge and a west facing face: this face is an easy C2/3 scramble back to the ridge. Above this is the worst part of the climb- very fractured, loose, and sometimes dirty rock. After a brief scramble comes the second crux at an impasse- Option 1. Go around L 5' and then straight up 15' to the top on semi exposed and very questionable rock that held for us or 2. Traverse 20' down to the R to an obvious body width very awkward to get into ~5.6 chimney. Gets easier above. On the ridge, continue on brief C3/4 then C2+ to the summit. 7:08 car to car
A confident and competent Class 4/low Class 5 scrambler should have little problem on everything but the cruxes.
Apexrock - Mar 23, 2014 10:38 pm Date Climbed: Mar 23, 2014
Incredible Climb!
This is absolutely my favorite Wasatch climb thus far. Ascending the variation B couloir then climbing the ridge offered such a pleasant variety in climbing. I will be back soon!!
Incredible climbing with Joseph Bullough and Michael Kligman. We followed a couloir to the ridge and then followed the ridge to the summit. Unbelievable loose rock and rock fall. That is what makes this route most dangerous. But amazing nonetheless!
dfrancom - Mar 22, 2009 10:18 pm Date Climbed: Mar 20, 2009
blueshade - Jul 20, 2020 8:38 pm Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2020
Fun scrambleFun scramble/climb.
While not to be considered fully comprehensive, this is a much better description of the route.
We started at the lowest point of the saddle and went mostly horizontal on the crest at Class 4/low 5. Probably can avoid parts of this dropping left or right. Continue to the "rap" at a brief knife edge that ends with a difficult 10' DC. (I'm generally a very good down climber and I didnt like the look of it.) Backtrack a mere 15-20' and DC ~25' on Class 3/4 to the EAST and reclimb to the narrow saddle with a big flat wedged rock. Low Class 5 pull up move to get onto the wedged rock.
Some ~Class 4 scrambling to the crux east facing face pitch. This has one piton at the hardest and most exposed part. There is little for hands and the feet are semi secure but sloped. We had rope but I would probably solo if doing again. HOWEVER, failure means likely sliding down and then falling over a cliff. Not recommended unless VERY confident.
Shortly after the crux it gets a bit more vertical but is never exposed- steep steps on continuous enjoyable Class 4+.
At a narrowing in the ridge and a west facing face: this face is an easy C2/3 scramble back to the ridge. Above this is the worst part of the climb- very fractured, loose, and sometimes dirty rock. After a brief scramble comes the second crux at an impasse- Option 1. Go around L 5' and then straight up 15' to the top on semi exposed and very questionable rock that held for us or 2. Traverse 20' down to the R to an obvious body width very awkward to get into ~5.6 chimney. Gets easier above. On the ridge, continue on brief C3/4 then C2+ to the summit. 7:08 car to car
A confident and competent Class 4/low Class 5 scrambler should have little problem on everything but the cruxes.
Apexrock - Mar 23, 2014 10:38 pm Date Climbed: Mar 23, 2014
Incredible Climb!This is absolutely my favorite Wasatch climb thus far. Ascending the variation B couloir then climbing the ridge offered such a pleasant variety in climbing. I will be back soon!!
jdw10 - Sep 23, 2012 8:58 pm Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2012
Amazing Day!Incredible climbing with Joseph Bullough and Michael Kligman. We followed a couloir to the ridge and then followed the ridge to the summit. Unbelievable loose rock and rock fall. That is what makes this route most dangerous. But amazing nonetheless!
dfrancom - Mar 22, 2009 10:18 pm Date Climbed: Mar 20, 2009
GreatGood weather, good company, memories forever!