North Sister Climber's Log
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|cascadetraveler||South ridge climb/Traverse. |
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2008
|I had attempted North Sister only once before, back in July of 05' I had missed opportunity in 06'and 07' I was about to lose my opportunity again when I came to the conclusion that I would have to lead it myself. When my Mt Adams via Mazama glacier climb cancelled due to forest fire I siezed the opportunity.|
I had one guy left that was still willing to do an adventure and we headed over to tackle The Black Beast of the Cascades. I had not climbed with Ivan before but he had more than enough experiance to be a solid second on the Terrible Traverse and Bowling Alley. The only thing we needed to do was brush up on glacier travel and rescue skills. WE spent a couple of hours the first day in camp working on the those skills.
We woke up at and departed camp at 3:00am and passed through the Hayden glacier without a blink, The melt out at the saddle made the crossing to the Collier glacier a bit more difficult. We were on the south ridge by a little after 6:00am The highlites were chopping and kicking steps across and back on the traverse on fifty degree snow. Belaying Ivan up the bowling alley and finally finding the only solid rock on the mountain in the summit block. The low was breaking down camp and packing out with what seemed like an 80 pound pack uhgg!
|Posted Aug 6, 2008 10:02 am|
|Steve Rydin||North Sister - SE Ridge |
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2007
|We had a great weekend at North Sister! Having been turned back in 2005 (at 8,600'), I really wanted this summit so I could finish my Three Sisters bid. I climbed with two friends, and we met up with two more en route. Between the five of us we had plenty of experience, gear, and sense of humor to make it a great climb! |
The weather was perfect for this climb - we couldn't have asked for better conditions. We left our campsite at Soap Creek at 5:30 am and summited at 11:30 am. After spending some time hanging out at the summit, we descended back to camp - arriving at 5:00 pm. Freeze dried Beef Stroganoff never tasted so good!
North Sister is known by many names: The Third Sister, The Ugly Sister, The Wicked Sister, The Deadly Sister, Charity (yeah, right - no love on this one). When I came home today and told my six-year-old son about my climb, he came up with a new one...Darth Sister!
See you out there!
|Posted Jul 6, 2008 1:37 pm|
|YEM||SE Spur |
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2007
|Mazama climb. I was lucky enough to summit with a great group on a good day. I feel that this is the best view in the Sisters area, but the rock is horribly loose. It was a good thing that no one else was on the mountain because we sent tons of rock flying. We used a fixed line for the top of the Bowling Alley and the last summit scramble, but I can see how some may not protect the route. On the ridge descent, one of the climbers in the group lost his balance and broke his wrist. We decided to short rope him and go down the scree instead of the ridge. We made it back to the cars at midnight. Jim, you're a soldier. Good luck with the recovery.|
|Posted Aug 28, 2007 4:57 pm|
|Mr. Clam||SE Ridge |
Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2007
|A very fun climb. We decided not to take a rope and were glad. We ended up taking a ridge to the right of the bowling alley that provided very fun climbing on solid rock. Can't wait to go back.|
|Posted Aug 26, 2007 4:01 pm|
|vancouver islander||SW Ridge |
Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2007
|With fellow V Islanders Tony and Graham.|
From a glorious camp at the foot of the Collier at ~2,400 metres.
Vile scree and, thanks to us, there are now several more tons of debris at the bottom of the west face than before we started. But we finally made it after some scary moments.
TT wasn't too bad and the Bowling Alley a pleasure after what preceded it. Soloed all the way up and rapped just the Class 4 section of the Alley coming down.
About 10 hours camp to camp. What took so long to climb and reverse 650 metres !?
TR now posted (August 15 2007) at this link.
|Posted Aug 5, 2007 6:56 pm|
|Jesus Malverde||South Ridge/Prouty Pinnacle South Horn|
Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2007
I went on the south ridge route expecting the "Hinterstoisser Traverse" of Oregon. I was happily disappointed. With soft snow and bit of melt out, the West Face traverse wasn't that intimidating. With ice or hard snow and much earlier in the year, I think the story might be a bit different. For what it's worth, I found North Sister's west face traverse a bit easier than the west face traverse on Mt. Jefferson.
A couple of observations:
1. Helmets seem mandatory on this climb
2. A second axe or ice tool would probably be a good thing to bring along. I ended up using my ice tool on the traverse.
3. Best if you are small party and there are no other parties on the standard route. The inevitable rockfall people will kick down (not to mention what the mountain herself could let loose on you) in the lower Bowling Alley definitely would add
adrenaline to your climb.
4. If you have the time and motivation, doing both North (first) and Middle Sister in a day seems pretty reasonable. We were a fast-moving party that left base camp at the foot of the Hayden Glacier at 2:45 am. The plan was to do both North and Middle Sister in a day. I think we should have read the guidebooks a bit more carefully, because we only summited the South Horn of Prouty Pinnacle (9:15 am). In hindsight, the North Horn did seem about 10-15 feet higher, but we were both distracted by what we thought would be long and exhausting day by going for both North and Middle Sisters. So we called the South Horn our "summit." Back off the west face traverse by 10:00 am, we set our sights on Middle Sister. The plan was to have my partner's girlfriend meet us at the saddle and then all go up Middle Sister's north ridge together. Well we arrived at the saddle at 11:00 and waited an hour and 15 minutes. No show. We then started to worry and decided to abort the second climb. After making it back almost to our camp, our third partner was seen coming up towards us. After a 30-minute pow wow, we decided to go for Middle Sister anyway (what the hell! it was a beautiful day in the mountains!). We left our meeting spot at 1:45 pm and made it to the top of the Hayden Glacier by 3:00 pm. The north ridge was pretty much a scree slog/trail so we made it to the top of Middle Sister by 4:00 pm. Back at the saddle at 5:00 pm. We strolled into of our camp at 6:00 pm feeling very accomplished (and surprisingly not too tired). Not bad for a 16-hour day. :)
|Posted Jul 21, 2007 6:21 pm|
|highice||winter epic with a stranger|
|met a guy from a climbing website and we snowshoed from the highway all the way to BC at N sister. Did the E ridge and climbed the heaveily rimed west face. coming down we were hit with white-out and high winds. no shovel, so stomped a tomb next to a rock that was 1 1/2 wide x 3' deep x 3' long, just below the summit. he didn't have an emergency blanket and mine would not open up into a bag (it had melded itself into a single sheet-probably from being packed too long). We put it over us to keep out the wind and snow. our water frozen, no food left, we waited out the storm all night. the hand warmers didn't work because they had gotten damp from the snow I guess. he was continuously shivering as we sat up, on top of the packs with me between his knees. what a first date! I peeked out and could see the lights of the nearby towns, only to have the storm once again cover the view. I kept my feet off the snow by setting them in my helmet, my toes were going numb, and my fingers too, due to holding the blanket above my head all night since there was no other way to hold it down. all I wanted to do was sleep through the epic , I didn't want to think about what-ifs all night...what if the storm doesn't subside tomorrow, what if my friend gets worse with his hyperthermia, what if we are lost? good thing the bivy was so stinking uncomfortable, as it kept us squirming all night and this kept us awake and aware of our bodies and surroundings. the next day we were greeted with sun and calm. we descended the ridge. as we got close to camp, I knew something hadn't been right with my hands and feet, just didn't want to deal with it during the descent. we removed my gloves and boots at camp to find I had 2nd degree frostbite, mostly on the fingers. I always wondered if a person can tell the difference between just cold numbness and numbness caused by frostbite. Yes you can...it's a different feeling unlike any I've had from just getting seriously cold fingers. you'll know it when you're getting it, at least if you're in a situation as I where you can notice it. exercising my toes all night had not been enough to keep them from freezing and holding the hands above my head was no help, even though I took turns using my head to hold the blanket so I could warm a hand at a time. I now change out my emergency blanket every 2 years and take a shovel to the summit (even with no avy danger)for emergencies. I won't open a hand warmer until I'm sure I'm settled in and done with handling wet objects. I do still climb with strangers, but not if they won't bring their OWN e-bag.|
|Posted Feb 1, 2007 8:46 pm|
|osatrik||Gnarly Northy via SE ridge - 3rd time is the charm! |
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 1999
|After 2 failed attempts: Once for lack of a rope to cross the last snowfield when the ice was too hard to kick steps, and the second attempt abandoned at the same spot due to avalanche conditions when the last snowfield was under a huge cornice attached to the south portion of the final summit ridge. We'd slept in at camp 'cause a late spring snow had added about 2 miles of snowshoeing on the road to get to the trailhead and exended our approach day. At least on THAT unsuccessful trip we had georgous central Oregon Cascades views. On the descent the whole south side of the SE ridge and east side of the Northy was sliding like mad in the heat of the day on the recent spring snow.|
Our summit on the third attempt was a great experience -- we fully protected the final snowfield, which is just about exactly a rope length across, and found the scramble up the bowling alley not nearly as loose as everyone complains about. The downer was that visability was about 50 yards!
|Posted Aug 14, 2006 7:46 pm|
|markmay||Route climbed: SE ridge|
Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2005
|Posted Jun 17, 2006 3:59 pm|
|daverobb||Route Climbed: Southwest Ridge |
Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2004
|One big crumbling piece of S*&%. It was fun though, just loose and sketchy in spots.|
|Posted Apr 16, 2006 6:17 pm|
|splattski||Route climbed: South ridge |
Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2002
|We successfully negotiated the frozen mud of the west traverse, and managed to get back off before the mud thawed. I liked it better when there was snow there.|
Nonetheless, beautiful morning- sunny, no wind, T-shirts on top. On to the Middle Sister!
|Posted Mar 14, 2006 1:08 pm|
|cdog||traverse: north to south |
Date Climbed: May 18, 2004
|Conditions varied greatly, with everything from snow & whiteouts to biting wind and short periods of warm sun. Most of the routes on the mountain were in surprisingly good shape with a nice cover of snow and ice. |
We ascended the northwest ridge and traversed to the pinnacle with little difficulty--plenty of firm snow despite some fresh topping. The pinnacle was interesting--lots of rime which was difficult to protect, but we successfully placed a couple ice screws on the most difficult portions. 2nd tool was helpful if not essential on the lead. Rapped off to avoid the previous difficulties...
Found the traverse to the south stable as well and saw only a few minor sloughs. Amazingly few rocks falling due to the ice--certainly a first for me on this mountain. Some loose snow on the Camels Hump could've used a belay, but things were getting late at that point and we opted out. The descent of the southeast ridge was rough--definetly worth the effort to stay on the climbers trail.
I placed a register in an ammo box on Prouty Pinnacle for future summiteers.
Edit: I believe this register has disappeared. Let me know if you find it!
|Posted Feb 27, 2006 6:19 pm|
|cascadetraveler||Route Climbed: southwest ridge/collier glacier. Date Climbed: july 17th 2005|
|Warmer than usual temps(50 degrees at 4:00 am. I believe a low camp and some route finding hang ups doomed are climb. We reached the traverse at 8:30 the sun approaching the snowfield to close for comfort with a party of eight. A party of four were ahead of us going with a running belay across the traverse. they reached the summit. It was still a great adventure as we experienced some gnarly exposure when we went to the right or east side of the camels hump on the ascent. We were able to identify are route finding errors we will come back next year a smaller party with a camp high on the glacier .|
|Posted Dec 30, 2005 2:47 pm|
|PellucidWombat||Route Climbed: SW Ridge via Collier Glacier Date Climbed: September 5th, 2005 |
Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2005
|A beautiful climb, although the route done w/o snow leaves something to be desired - I pray to god I never get on rock that loose ever again! It was interesting watching breezes set off rockfall on the Terrible Traverse. The Bowling Alley was actually really fun, with relatively solid rock (which got more solid as the scrambling got more difficult).|
I think I'd really enjoy this climb w/ snow - I'll have to come back!
|Posted Sep 17, 2005 7:22 pm|
|seth fridae||Route Climbed: three sisters traverse Date Climbed: 8/3|
|Nate Cooney and I started at pole creek at 5:00am and finished at devils lake at 7:00 pm having summited all three sisters(our first attempt at traverse). Beer and pizza please. We're gonna up the anty and summit sisters plus brokentop and bachy in 24 hours w/out the use of a car. Stay tuned for deatlis.|
|Posted Sep 3, 2005 6:15 pm|
|seth fridae||Route Climbed: NE Arrette Date Climbed: August 6 2005|
|Solo adventure. |
Lots of rock fall and a little bit of route finding.
|Posted Sep 3, 2005 5:59 pm|
|Dennis Poulin||Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: 26 June 2005|
|I was there with Brian, David, Steve, Craig and Justin. What took so long to climb 1,500ft and walk 2.0 miles round trip from camp? Great experience.|
|Posted Jun 30, 2005 12:32 pm|
|Brian Jenkins||Route Climbed: Southwest Ridge Date Climbed: June 25/26, 2005|
|Finally bagged this one and can feel good about owning the North Sister page now. This was also my final big Oregon Cascade volcano so that list is done now.|
Climbed with summitposters dkantola, sharrison, criwin and Dennis Poulin. Also hooked up with a guy from Seattle named Justin whose partner followed his instincts and descended at about the Third Gendarme.
Hiked in to about 8500 feet and camped at the same spot on the Collier that I did on my first attempt of North Sister back in 2001. Up and going about 4 am. Easy climb up onto the ridge but climbed up lava scree in crampons is a drag. We had to downclimb and traverse under Camels Hump, then climb back up on the ridge. Then skirted the second gendarme on the right, then back under the final one to the traverse. The actual trail to the Terrible Traverse was steep snow and we protected it with a long running belay.
David was belayed up the Bowling Alley which was steep snowy ice until the final bit which was water ice. He set up a fixed line and the rest of us prusiked up it. One final easy mixed pitch to the summit and it was done. Oh yeah, then nasty weather blew in and then the rope got stuck on the rap and by then it was late afternoon and the snow was soft and the winds were wanting to blow us to Bend. It was snowing UP (no lie) and I was buttass cold. With the large group we had it took a long time and we did not get back to camp until close to midnight. Then the long hike out in the wee hours of the morning. Apologies to loved ones who were worried about us. Just one long climb. This one beat Sunshine Route on Hood as it was a 23 hour and 45 minute climb. Ugh.
|Posted Jun 27, 2005 6:04 pm|
|GlennMerrill||Route Climbed: Early Morning Couloir Date Climbed: June 2003|
|Done car-to-car. The summit block is fun because it was mixed snow, rock, and ice.|
|Posted Feb 27, 2005 7:37 pm|
|K2McKay||Route Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: 10/19/97|
|We headed in from the north side and had to skirt around the mountain a little bit to get where we wanted to be. Climbed up the snow covered fact up to about 8500 feet until it started getting late and skied down from there. It was awesome. Really steep and fast. Some of the best turns I've ever made.|
|Posted Nov 22, 2004 6:57 pm|