Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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48.67122°N / 119.93276°W |
Route Type:
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Mountaineering |
Season:
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Summer |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.8 (YDS) |
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Number of Pitches:
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6 |
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Grade:
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I |
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Overview
On the north side of Tiffany Mountain are several snow couloirs, aretes and rock faces, it's a beautiful mini alpine zone and a great place for a beginning alpine climber to cut their teeth. The North Tower Ridge Route offers moderate climbing with good protection and great exposure on generally excellent rock (rough, nicely featured granite, although the ridge itself is mostly boulders), and climbs the right side of the face beginning just right of the couloir to the right of the large main North Face. Begin at the vertical crack down hill from the main Tower Ridge and climb two pitches to join the ridge, once on the ridge scramble up a pitch to the base of the North Tower, step right to an obvious vertical crack/corner and climb excellent rock until it's possible to continue up the ridge to the top of the tower.
The area is beautiful and secluded feeling, the approach is easy, and the views during the climb and once on top are spectacular.
Getting There
From Conconully either drive up North Fork Salmon Creek and over Lone Frank Pass (almost an hour on a narrow 4WD road - 21.3 miles) or up the South Fork and over Baldy Pass (almost 2 hours on a longer 2WD gravel road - 30.6 miles), or approach from the Methow Valley (about an hour on a good 2WD gravel road - 26.5 miles. Park at Tiffany Springs campground (6760') and follow the pleasant trail (#373) east past Tiffany Lake to Honeymoon Pass (7150', 45 minutes). From Honeymoon Pass either traverse south on the grassy east slope to the small cirque at the base of the N. Face (7360') and climb the boulder field to the base of the climb (7600'), or hike up the trail on the north side of the ridge leading to Little Tiffany Lake and drop down to the base of the climb from above (30 minutes).
Descend by walking off the NW ridge of Tiffany and then head NE above Little Tiffany Lake to join the main trail at Honeymoon Pass.
Route Description
North Tower Ridge 5.8 ** 775'
Begin just right of the couloir that is just right of the large main North Face. Start at the vertical crack down slope from the main ridge and climb two pitches to join the ridge, once on the ridge scramble up a pitch to the base of the North Tower, and then continue up the Tower to the top.
P1 - 5.5 110' - climb the vertical crack until it's possible to step left and continue up the left side of the face. Good pro and interesting moves leads to a belay at the top of the lower face.
P2 - 5.8 120' - from the small broken ridge at the top of the lower face continue directly up the wide flaring chimney above to belay on the main ridge crest.
P3 - 4th class 200' - continue up the main ridge to the base of the Tower. Watch out for loose rock and boulders.
P4 - 5.7 175' - climb the Tower staying to the right of the ridge at first (from the belay, traverse 10' right to the off-width corner crack , then continue up the thin and difficult to protect face above). Excellent climbing for the first 75' leads back to the ridge, and more 4th class climbing to a belay on the ridge about 15' above the small stunted pine.
P5 - 4th class 90' - continue up the ridge to the top of the tower.
P6 - 3rd class 75' - walk along the ridge to the south to reach the main slope of Tiffany.