ApproachThe best camping place is Demirkazik North High Camp. Start from Demirkazik Village, get Arpalik Plateu. After Arpalik you can either choose Apiskar Valley , which goes directly to the camp or upper part of Cimbar Gorge via Tekepinari. Apiskar is a bit short but steep. I can not say that it is fun when you carry heavy loads for the wall.
It is recommended to hire a mule from the village for your heavy packs.
The best season is late summer or early fall, when the wall is dry. On the other hand, especially in this period it is quite difficult to find water at North High Camp. You should search for the water drops at the foot of the glacier.
Route DescriptionSee topo.
Climb the permanent glacier to its top or enter the big cravesse which seperates the wall from the ice.
1st pitch: At the top of the glacier you will see two parallel cracks. Take right one and climb to the belay point which is on a small ledge. Grade VI, approx 45 m. There are tricky pitons, do not go right side!
2nd pitch: Climb down a few meters to left and go up. In this section you will see two main cracks again. Take the left one. Grade III+, VI-.
3rd pitch: Keep going. III,III+.
4th pitch: Route is exposed. V+.
5th pitch: Keep following the crack. V.
6th pitch: IV-.
7th pitch: Crux. In this pitch you will see a crack above like, upside down half-moon (Just an indicator for you to realize where are you). Climb the main line. VI-
8th pitch: Easy III+.
9th pitch: Climb V, V+.
10th pitch and further: Easy III but a bit loose.
May be one more pitch (depends on you) and the ridge. Then walk to the summit.
Descent from the normal route and walk up to the camp. What a suffering!
Essential GearIce axes and crampons for the glacier. Single axe can be enough.
Twin rope recommended.
1-2 set camming devices.