Follow the Overview directions to get to Van Patten Lake, where the route starts.
Follow the left (east) shore of the lake to the tributary basin to the south. There are two inlet streams; from the mouth of the eastern one head straight towards the primary notch in the ridge. Keep close to the rocks rising along the right side to keep the bearing under the closed subalpine fir/spruce canopy. It will be tempting to arc out through the flat woods to the east but that will become a tangle of stream channels, wet seeps and down wood. Its not the easy way to go.
Emerge from the trees to a large talus slope that leads directly to the saddle. Further up the slope, the footing is better near the rock of the east wall. Once on top follow the ridge west. The rocks are big and jumbled on the top and at times will become difficult to manage. Generally its best to stay to the left (south) when they become impassable.
After a rise in the ridge pass by the west saddle that is situated between the ridge behind you and the main block of the mountain. On the west side of the saddle, there is an obvious route through some trees between difficult rocks of the southeast aspect. Climb this slope to the east summit and then continue on across the broad gentle summit ridge to the higher western summit. The high point is formed of large fractured granite rocks that are covered with tangled whitebark pine. This east approach is gentle, but the rocks jut up very precipitously above the west cliffs and connecting ridges.
A possible alternate route is to take the west saddle above the source of the lake’s west inlet stream. This saddle is gentler and would avoid the climb and descent along the southeast ridge on the described route. But ascending this inlet from the lake appears to be much rockier and steeper terrain that may or may not be difficult, but would need to be assessed from the ground.
Good hiking boots are all that is required. An ice axe and crampons are recommended for a spring or early summer attempt when snow will be present.
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