Northeast Face, Left
|[ Sizes: Orig | Med | Small | Thumb ]|
Northeast Face, Left [side] of Warbonnet route, a grade II class 5.7 outing - as seen from the Warbonnet-Plume Col. Approximate line of (our!) ascent indicated. Think we were grossly correct in our route finding as we encountered two pitons (near top of P4 and P5) and two pieces of fixed pro (as well as a bail sling or two). I did mess up twice (P3 and P5 I think) which resulted in my downclimbing and traversing. Since we were climbing on two ropes this was not an issue for my second - she simply pendulumed across on the second rope. Note that Kelsey's guidebook mentions a "dihedral" which the route supposedly follows for "several" pitches. I've enumerated the prominent dihedrals you'll see on the face - quite a few to choose from. As it turned out, the route does not really follow any of them. The closest is labeled D5 and it is also "The Dihedral" in this photo. I will try to supplement this "topo" with a sketched one later. The ratings go approx. as: P1=4th-5.0; P2=5.6; P3=5.7; P4=5.7 (felt harder, see caption in subsequent photos); P5=5.7; P6=5.6-5.7.....yes I'm sure these will be debated without end once others here on SP do this route...as it is, these are MY interpretation. For a slightly different view of the route, see this photo (August 2, 2004).