b. - Aug 25, 2004 1:15 pm - Hasn't voted
CongratsFinding this route is something to be proud of. My wife and I climbed 4 or 5 pitches of this and went too far right on the traverse. We were getting chased by weather, too, so we rapped a line of perfectly placed slings between this route, and the NE Face Left route. After the traverse, it looked like a difficult link to get back over to the chimney. Some of these pictures look familiar, like that little ledge. I thought that some of the 5.7 was a little stiff, too, considering the loose nature of some of the flakes on the first pitch, and the traverse.
rpc - Aug 25, 2004 1:31 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: CongratsThank you.
It's good to hear from someone who had similar impressions of this route. I'm not even sure how "on-route" we were - just sort of guessed our way up this thing and we did luck out with the weather (getting caught on descent doesn't qualify as "punishment"). Can't imagine trying to finish this on soaked moss! That ledge you mention atop P4, actually the going was much easier from there onwards (I thought that P4 to reach this ledge was the hardest pitch of the route) - the traverse rightward could be made over mostly easy ground. Yeah, agreed about the rating - maybe the .7 rating is OK but the loose rock, mossy cracks, and route finding uncertainty made it feel harder for me.
Misha - Mar 28, 2005 3:17 pm - Hasn't voted
Great beta!Nice one, Radek! Is this considered to be a better route up this peak? I am thinking to try this or something cleaner (if available) this coming summer.
rpc - Mar 28, 2005 4:33 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Great beta!Thanks Misha.
From memory, I think the Kelsey guidebook lists something like 4 routes on this peak (+the class 3 scramble on the "backside"): 2 are 5.7's (NE Face Left and NE Face Right with the latter having more issues than the foremer), 1 is in the 5.10's (Feather Traverse or something like that?) and 1 in the 5.11 range (Black Elk). Don't think there's much more on this (at least published). Fun route. You'll love the Cirque.
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