See the main page for different options on getting to this peak. Approach to the base of the chimney system halfway accross the northeast face.
This is the second easiest route on the peak, and is significantly more challenging (the lower section), than the standard South Ridge scramble.
The start up the route is a steep chimney, guarded by a large chockstone. Going directly up would be hard 5th class. Instead locate the face holds and edges to the right of this. Climb the blocky but vertical face for about 25 feet (class 4+) until able to exit into the lower angle chimney system above. As the chimney gets steeper you will encounter a short vertical chimney section that is straighforward class 4. After that there is one more section (See this photo) of steep chimney that is easy class 4.
From here the route exits into a low angle scree choked gully which angles up and to the south. The gully is really nasty, and I would recommend staying on the nice class 3 to 3+ rock to the left of this. Move up to the top, then you will get your first view of the summit. From here, the route goes up some nasty class 2 and 3 scree that is unavoidable. Be careful not to trundle loose rocks on your partner. Scramble up and to the left to achieve the true summit.
Easier Variation: We discovered that by gaining the ledge system above and to the right of the chimneys via class 3 rock, you can avoid the first 2 chimneys, making the route significantly easier. This variation is not described in Tom Lopez's book.
Descent: This route can easily be downclimbed by strong rock scramblers. I downclimbed it and had no problem at all. However, if you are a hiker and thought climbing up the lower section was hard, definately downclimb the easier south ridge instead. Another option would be to build some rap stations, then rappel the 4th class sections.
Good rigid sole boots, water, sunscreen.
Bring a rope and harness if you want to rappel. Bring a very light rock rack if you want to belay the 4th class on the ascent.
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.