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Northeast face
Route

Northeast face

 
Northeast face

Page Type: Route

Location: Alberta, Canada, North America

Object Title: Northeast face

Route Type: Technical rock climb

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: 5.4-5.6

Route Quality: 
 - 5 Votes
 

 

Page By: William Marler

Created/Edited: Sep 9, 2004 / Sep 10, 2004

Object ID: 162092

Hits: 5319 

Page Score: 76.66%  - 7 Votes 

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Approach


Head out of Canmore on the Smith-Dorrien/Spray Trail past the Grassi Lakes to the dam. Cross the dam and climb the fence. After you drop down on the other side you will find the trail head up to you left which lead gradually to the bottom of the east face. Traverese around this face on fairly solid scree to the base of the bowl that connects Miner peak and Ha Ling. From here your rock climb begins.

According to James Blench a superb guide who lives in Canmore. The route is named the Northeast face but is really a misnomer as it faces more south.

Route Description


This is a very pleasent rock climb with plenty of bolts at strategic places. The route slope up easily at first for the first 4-5 pitches. The most difficult climbing is in the middle 3-4 pitches the hardest pitch rated at 5.6. The last 3 of the approx 11 pitches is more moderate. This allows you to warm up on the easier parts and be ready for the more difficult stretch and then eases up at the end. Two of the middle pitches require the full length of a 55 metre rope. The balance of the pitches are shorter. See the photo for a rough route outline.

Essential Gear


Technical rock gear.
55 metre rope
Helmut
Rock shoes
Harness
Assorted locking biners and quickdraws
5-6 slings
Assortment of Cams
Nuts
Belay device
Prussiks
Cleaning tool

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images