Northeast Face Additions and Corrections

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murf - Aug 23, 2005 1:45 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

Amusing to see almost identical corrections to the ones my partner and I annotated in the guide - great topo.

rpc

rpc - Sep 6, 2005 5:11 pm - Voted 10/10

Route Comment

If you're in a jam or just want to go with a single line...



We rapped the descent route with a single 60 meter rope 2 days ago. Very close but doable:



First rap is just right length for a 60 meter rope (brings you as described on topo to the large ledge).

Scramble down 10-15 feet (exposed) and left (climbers' left) to the next station.

Rap right (climbers' right = toss ropes left) - your feet will touch the next rap boulder/set up as you run out of rope - be CAREFUL and know what you're doing (if you've taken a foot off of your 60 meter rope, you won't make this rap).

One more single 60 meter rap brings you to the huge ledge.



In retrospect, we should've not been lazy and done double rope raps...

standinginawe

standinginawe - Sep 8, 2005 10:05 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

As for the rap, we did it last week twice, with a 60m rope. Although there are reportedly many rap stations varying in length between them, we found that the standard rap route coming down from the 3-pitch South Butress route was easily made with one 60m rope. HOWEVER, as said already, please exercise caution or knot the rope at the ends so as to not come off at the stances - they are all VERY close. Anyway, the raps are obvious, but as already stated, at the second rap station, THROW LEFT and rap down climbers right to the final stance above the start of the South Butress route.

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