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Northeast Ridge

Northeast Ridge

Northeast Ridge

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 36.76730°N / 118.3725°W

Object Title: Northeast Ridge

Route Type: Technical Rock, Mixed when snow-covered

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: 5.6

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes


Page By: dankras

Created/Edited: Jun 5, 2004 / Jun 5, 2004

Object ID: 161150

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Head out on Kearsarge Pass trail; right when you reach Big Pothole Lake go Southwest to the beginning of Northeast ridge (the beginning of the ridge is obvious, but consult photos for further detail) - this is the beginning of the climb. I grateful to Bob Rockwell, of China Lake Mountain Rescue, for information on this route.

Route Description

The route stay directly on the prominent NE Ridge. About 1 pitches of 5.2, 2 of 5.4, and 2 of 5.3 gets you to the summit pinnacle. The summit block is 30' of unprotectable 5.6 friction slabwhich gets progressively harder until the crux; the only way to make a sound belay is to have two people belay the leader from the east and west of the summitblock simultaneously, resulting in something like a keelhaul, if he happens to slip. There is a 1/4" bolt, and hanger, which is sound, for a rappell and an old bolt which should be avoided.
One way to get off the route, which is very fast, is to rappell off the NW face; this can cost you a couple of slings, but one pitch gets you down to scree, or snow, which you can hike back to Kearsarge Pass.

Essential Gear

Rope, alpine rack, a bunch of slings.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


Carl Mautner on the...Carl Mautner coming up to the...Nameless Pyramid with a good...