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Page Type: Route

Location: Tyrol (Ötztal)/South-Tyrol (Alto Adige), Austria/Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.76760°N / 10.88810°E

Object Title: Northface

Route Type: Ice Climb

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: 55°

Route Quality: 
 - 4 Votes


Page By: Rahel Maria Liu

Created/Edited: Dec 14, 2001 / May 28, 2002

Object ID: 155982

Hits: 3293 

Page Score: 75.06%  - 6 Votes 

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From the Martin-Busch-Hut: 3 h until the foot of the northface (3250m) over the Marzellglacier, direction: Similaunjoch.

Route Description

The northface is quite regularly steep, between 45° and 55° (key passage at the end). It does not have seracs. It is 350 m high. You need 2 1/2 - 4 h for the face. In early summer, there is no objective danger except snowboarders coming down ... Later in the summer, it becomes snowless, and the danger of rockfall rises. This northface is not difficult and therefore suitable for beginners of northface climbing. Nevertheless, the view is beautiful. Normally, you do not need any rope. It is simply a pleasure tour. The route goes through the middle-left part of the northface and directly to the summit. The problems at the end (at the climbing out) are the snow cornices.

Essential Gear

2 ice-axes, crampons.

Additions and Corrections

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BartChanging conditions


Voted 7/10

We climbed the Similaun north face in may 2006 and found the crux to be the middle of the route where you have to climb and traverse through a rocky outcrop covered in a flimsy layer of snow at about 55 degrees. There were no cornices at the end and the route got less steep towards the summit ridge!
Posted Nov 6, 2006 12:20 pm

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SimilaunSimilaun north face (July 1990)Similaun