From the Martin-Busch-Hut: 3 h until the foot of the northface (3250m) over the Marzellglacier, direction: Similaunjoch.
The northface is quite regularly steep, between 45° and 55° (key passage at the end). It does not have seracs. It is 350 m high. You need 2 1/2 - 4 h for the face. In early summer, there is no objective danger except snowboarders coming down ... Later in the summer, it becomes snowless, and the danger of rockfall rises. This northface is not difficult and therefore suitable for beginners of northface climbing. Nevertheless, the view is beautiful. Normally, you do not need any rope. It is simply a pleasure tour. The route goes through the middle-left part of the northface and directly to the summit. The problems at the end (at the climbing out) are the snow cornices.
We climbed the Similaun north face in may 2006 and found the crux to be the middle of the route where you have to climb and traverse through a rocky outcrop covered in a flimsy layer of snow at about 55 degrees. There were no cornices at the end and the route got less steep towards the summit ridge!