Attempted this well known north face after a particularly snow-heavy early spring which brought it nicely into condition. Climbing was great, unroped the whole way which was fine except for the middle of the route where you have to climb and traverse through a rock band; flimsy layer of ice, bit tricky! Rest of the route was fine, great firn!
"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe