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Northwest Couloir

Northwest Couloir

Northwest Couloir

Page Type: Route

Location: Wyoming, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 43.71900°N / 110.818°W

Object Title: Northwest Couloir

Route Type: Hike/Scramble

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Class 4

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes


Page By: rmjwinters

Created/Edited: Apr 5, 2003 / Apr 5, 2003

Object ID: 157918

Hits: 10635 

Page Score: 74.63%  - 6 Votes 

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Follow directions for approach up Garnet Canyon to The Meadows. At The Meadows turn left (south) and follow this fork to the saddle between South Teton and Middle Teton. Don't be tempted to begin your contour toward South Teton early. Continue ALL the way to the saddle until Icefloe lake is visible to the west.

Route Description

This is the most popular route on South Teton. From the saddle between South Teton and Middle Teton turn left (south) and begin ascending moderate talus. It is not necessary to stay directly on the ridge crest itself. It is best to contour across the talus aiming for the right (west) side of a permanent snowfield that rests on the north slopes. Cross the snowfield and take caution. The snowfield is steep. Crossing without iceaxe and/or crampons is a calculated risk. Some years previous traffic wears a trenchlike path across this snowfield. Either way, be prepared and take caution.

Once across the snowfield brings you to the base of a short coulair. It is mostly Class 3, but Class 4 climbing is required in parts. Climb the couloir to the summit ridge about 100 feet west of the true summit. A short scramble leads to the true summit.

Essential Gear

Ice axe and crampons along with knowledge of how to use them is advised for most parties.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


The Middle Teton and the Grand seen from the South Teton, January 2017The Northwest Couloir of the South TetonRime ice at the summit of the South Teton, winter 2017Closeup of the winter alpenglow on the Middle Teton and Grand, seen from the South TetonLooking up at South Teton\'s...Looking down South Teton\'s...Mount Owen-Seen from the summit of Teewinot
Steep snow on the South TetonThe saddle between the South Teton and the Middle TetonThe Northwest Couloir of the South Teton seen in winterThe beginning of the route...