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Northwest face

 
Northwest face

Page Type: Route

Location: Departamento Arequipa, Peru, South America

Lat/Lon: 154.00000°N / 728.00000°E

Object Title: Northwest face

Route Type: glacier climb/ice climb

Time Required: A few days

Difficulty: AD

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: tatraman

Created/Edited: Dec 6, 2004 / Dec 6, 2004

Object ID: 163132

Hits: 1969 

Page Score: 72.3%  - 3 Votes 

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Approach


Start at visca Grande where you can get by bus going from Arequipa to Cotahuasi (ask the driver to drop you off) From here, traverse westwaerds some 8 kilometers until you reach a valley with mountainstream. (app 4700 m) Solimana is visible from this point. Continue upstreams until you reach a high rocky plateau set your tent here, there are some good places for high camp at a morraine rib slightly to the left in app. 5100... Watre is to be found in a stream behind the rib (to the east) during the day.

Route Description


Climb the morain rib heading towards the glacier. Continue around the glacier to the right side (heading Southwest) until you find a good starting point where glacier plateau opens up. Cross the plateau and come below a narrow culoir in the NW face of the mountain (the summit in the middle is the highest one) Climnb the culoir (app 50 to 55 degrees with one or two icefalls of app 6meters up to 80 degrees) that will lead you to summit ridge. Continue by the summit ridge and reach the top. The descent is via the same route... we did the descent with our skis, see http://skicordillera.laviny.cz

Essential Gear


you will need at least 2 icescrews and at least 3 snow anchors (persumable, you will leave one or two there when rappeling over the little icefalls). crampons, 60 m rope and two technical ice axes for the one who will lead are ok.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

on the summitup the culoir...Our ascent route via a culoir...map showin the approach from...