OverviewThis route was first utilized by the USGS in the 1920s but was not completed as their marker station was placed below the most difficult part of the route.
The route, although not long in mileage, is remote and dificult and exposed in spots. It is a great adventure and leads one through an absolutely beautiful valley below many pristine mountain peaks.
Getting ThereFrom the Doublespring Pass Road turnoff on US-93 (see main page for instructions), follow this improved dirt road 14 miles up and over Doublespring Pass to an unmarked turnoff on your left for Christian Gulch. Follow this somewhat kept dirt road a couple of miles passing by a road to the left. Shortly after the road, the road will fork, take the left fork and continue on the road that is degrading in condition.
Then another fork will present itself shortly after and it seems correct to follow the switchback to the left through the open gate. Don't, and follow this the rough road until reaching a field at about 8,200' where it will peter out into nothing.
Route DescriptionFollow the easily navigated forest floor southwest toward Pt. 8,662'. Turn more southerly and work into the cirque with the three seasonal ponds heading toward the massive north face of Petros.
At the third pond, turn west and climb through a band of class three rocks to the saddle between Peak 10,749, and Pt. 10,320'. Follow a well worn goat path around the west side o Pt. 10,320' to the saddle below Petros's intimidating Northwest Ridge.
A few small towers now block the ridgeline. Follow the goat trail to the south side of these cliffs and gain a ledge that paralells the base of them. This move requires one or two class three moves.
Follow the steepening northwest ridge on loost rock until reaching a small wall that is easily climbed by another class III move. Shortly after this wall is the USGS marker and the crux of the climb. Directly on the main crest, the suddenly becomes solid and steep. The rock is too loose and the face is too steep to traverse across on the west face to avoid this section. Climbing this 20' of class III to maybe class IV and heartening as you get a bird's eye view of Petros Peak's north face.
Once above this section, follow the ridgeline along two false summits to the true summit at above 11,000'
Essential GearIf attemping in late summer, bring extra water as the streams have dried by then.
A rope may be more of nuissance than anything because of the terrible rock quality on this route.