Welcome to SP!  -
Nosedive
Route

Nosedive

 
Nosedive

Page Type: Route

Location: New York, United States, North America

Object Title: Nosedive

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.10b (YDS)

Difficulty: G

Number of Pitches: 1

Route Quality: 
 - 0 Votes
 

 

Page By: RyderS

Created/Edited: May 21, 2014 / Jun 6, 2014

Object ID: 898007

Hits: 239 

Page Score: 74.71%  - 5 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Overview

Nosedive and its companion route, Retribution, are two very accessible .10s in the Uberfall area of the Trapps. Nosedive is, according to some, 'easier' than Retribution, but the movement is more interesting and sustained than its neighbor: everything from thin face climbing to exciting liebacking to jamming are all found on this short but stellar route. If you are looking to push your Gunks climbing to higher grades, this route (and Retribution) is a good indicator to see if you are ready for longer .10s like The Feast of Fools, Wegetables, or Mother's Day Party. 

Getting There

From the West Trapps lot: Follow the carriage road for about 5-6 minutes until you enter the Uberfall area, passing a large overhang on your left (great shelter if it starts raining). Nosedive is the right crack and right-facing corner of the pair of cracks near the huge fallen block known as the Gerdie Block. 

From the Wawarsing lot: This requires that you head up the 'stairmaster' first. Hike up to the carriage road and turn LEFT, as if you were heading back for the West Trapps lot. Walk for ~7 minutes, past the 'Uber toilet' (composting toilet next to the Uberfall descent). Look for the twin cracks and the Gerdie Block.

Route Description

Start at the base of a shallow, left facing corner. Thin moves on thin gear (.1 BD X4)--a little balancy but only for a short stretch--will plant you firmly on a sidewalk of a ledge beneath an ancient fixed pin. Clip the pin and pull into a great lieback (.8-.9) with bomber gear placements, and pull above to a small rest. Climb the now right-facing corner with thin jam moves until the wall angle kicks back. Here, you have some options: if you are tall, you can reach right to a big ol' bucket, from which you can gather yourself, get a little acrobatic with your feet, and place gear beneath the crux. For short folks: you may have to climb the corner directly, which is a bit trickier, but not unreasonable.

Pull through the slightly overhung corner into an off-fingers crack. Place bomber finger-sized gear and pull onto the final ledge. An easy hand traverse will put you in an alcove with a bolt anchor shared by Nosedive and Retribution.

Note: After finishing the final crack, place a redirect directly above it, as the anchor is off to the left of the route, otherwise your second will be in for an exciting pendulum if they fall at the end.

From the anchor of Nosedive and Retribution
Looking down from the anchor of Nosedive (off to the left) and Retribution (right). Make sure to place a redirect at the top of the crux or else your second will be in for an interesting pendulum!

Essential Gear

Small to finger sized gear. Cams from BD X4/C4 from .1 - 1 along with some nuts will be about all you need. 8-10 half or single length runners. The route does not wander too much, but you will want to avoid rope drag around the small roofs.

External Links


Images

Following on Nosedive