OverviewFrom the summit of Pizzo dell'Oro Meridionale, to NW, a big ridge, with a difference in elevation of ~ 600m goes down toward the Val Codera, about at its middle a shoulder divides the lower part, not well defined, from the higher one that is a fine and smart edge made of excellent rock.
On this edge the best route of the mini-group of Pizzi dell'Oro.
It was opened by Vitale Bramani (the inventor of the famous Vibram rubber sole) and is, together with the routes on the NE wall of the Sfinge, the most frequented route in the area of Rifugio Omio.
The route is very amusing, difficulties are continuous (up to IV+ UIAA) in the last 200m
Difference in elevation about 300m
|While climbing you can't do but giving frequent glances to the impressive N walls of Sfinge and Ligoncio|
Getting ThereFrom the road to Sondrio (coming from Milan) exit at Ardenno (just after the bridge on Adda river) and follow for San Martino Val Masino and, on the right to Bagni del Masino (14km from Ardenno).
In less than 2 hours you get the Rifugio Omio, follow the path toward SW, turn to W along a debris channel to get the small basin (snow and big stones) under the Passo Ligoncio (2575m)
Once at the Pass follow a long ledge, on the W side of the mountain (right side walking), descending toward the Val Codera till you get a small saddle, little before it you have to follow a short grassy ledge leading to an overhanging boulder little detached from the wall : this is the starting point of the route.
Route DescriptionClimb the boulder (IV+) and follow the above slab.
Slightly toward left to get the edge that, wide and with some grass, must be climbed for 2-3 (not difficult) pitches.
When the edge gets sharp cross to the left along a ledge and start to follow a fine sequence of chimneys and dihedrals (IV/IV+ continuous) to arrive under a vertical step.
Cross to the right for few meters along a narrow crack then straight on, along a short crack (IV+), to get the ridge.
A long smooth but not too steep dihedral leads to the summital part than can be got along short slabs.
From the summit follow the ridge toward S, then down on the left to a saddle.
Along a short channel to the right then, following some ledges and scrambling on grassy slopes, you get the lower part of the S side.
Along a channel to arrive beyond the Passo Ligoncio.