Climbed from Horse Creek Canyon (through the notch, up Glacier Col) with SMG on a fine one day climb. The rock is fun and not too hard, with just enough exposure to make it interesting. Highly recommended backcountry gem, with a very scenic and spectacular view.
Successful on the second attempt. We used ropes for the part that's described as low-mid 5th class. And rappelled from a nice rock flake. Can't see how anybody could think it's 3rd class only.
Summit block is easier than it looks.
Skied down from Glacier col and Cleaver notch afterwards.
Climbed the NW face and downclimbed steeper W face; superb rock on route, with some loose rock danger on ledges. We found great conditions in Glacier Col from recent snowstorm, but climbing over the bulge near the top of the Col was a little dicey (couple inches powder over plastered rubble)
"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe