Route Climbed: ENE Ridge / Arbengrat / ENE Ridge Date Climbed: october 2015 / july 2017 / july 2019
2015: Fresh snow the night before made us back off to the valley in the morning.
2017: Completely missed the entry couloir to the Arbegrat and started climbing to far to the right in the South Face. Several hours searching and up and down climbing later, we were defeated and headed back to the valley. Quite a bummer.
2019: Again fresh snow the night before, but following in the tracks of some guides we made good timing and reached the summit via the ENE Ridge. During descent we were pulling rappels along the upper part of the ridge and finally had to let the guides go. Good conditions on the snowy part. Rocky parts offer good possibilities for belaying. The Dülfer crack on the final part of the ridge below the summit could use a spit in place.
Very long day. Stayed another night in the Rothornhütte.
RoyD - Aug 17, 2009 4:49 pm Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2009
ENE-ridge, South face with descent over the Arbenridge and North face
ENE-ridge over Wellenkuppe to the summit of the Ober Gabelhorn (Aug 15, 2009),South face with descent over the Arbenridge (Aug 30, 2009) and North face with descent over the ENE-ridge (Jul 10, 2012)
Turned around at 4000 m. after witnessing an accident (two climbers felt down the ridge..)
Bart - Aug 17, 2008 11:23 am Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2008
S - Face
Nice route, quite hard to find the exact right way!
Pierre smetsers - Dec 16, 2007 10:27 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2007
Arbengraat
Climbing from Arbenbivak over Arbengraat(Arbenridge) to the top, The wheater wasn't so good.
But the climb was great 3+. after standing on the top we abseild down a few pitches and walked to the wellenkuppe (very Steep).
And than we didn't seeing anything, fog and very strong wind. We could not find ower way down from wellekuppe to the Rothornhutte. But after using the GPS we arrived just before nightime( Snow, Rain, storm, fog and thunder)
Cyrill - Nov 8, 2007 4:45 am Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2007
JanG - Aug 22, 2007 2:37 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2007
NE ridge from Wellenkuppe
This was a memorable climb for me. The Wellenkuppe/Obergabelhorn combination presented a very long but exhilarating mix of very exposed, somewhat dangerous snow ridges (with drops of over 800 metres to huge crevasses below) and challenging rock-climbing pitches (it was quite tough to find good footholds on the rocks while wearing crampons on my boots!).
It took me more than 11 hours to complete the round trip back to the Rothorn hut whereas my sons Christoph & Alexander did it in barely 10 hours. We had great weather and a fresh layer of snow (it had snowed two days previously) to provide a nice cushion on the steep downclimb from the summit.
Highly recommended mountain (for acclimatization and rock-climbing training purposes) for anyone envisioning to climb the Matterhorn or Weisshorn!
Route Climbed: Northface Date Climbed: June/24/2000
We started from Mountet, climbed the wonderful Northface and returned by the Coeur-ridge (1/3), abseiled down to the north couloir and climbed down the rest.
We did not climb the short very easy final passage from the end of the northface on the W-ridge to the summit (about 20 min.) because we wanted to save time. This was good in the end, since we got lost in the fog on our way back through the moraines (we did not have GPS). With the darkness, we reached the Mountet-hut nevertheless. But if we hadn't the maybe 45 saved min. left we might not have found the Mountet-hut anymore but might have made an unplanned bivouac in the moraines .... So sometimes lazy people are the winners ... ;o)
Been there twice now. Its a fantastic climb nothing like 450-500 VM of 45° snow and ice. The first time I did it we were back at the hut within 5.1/2hrs.
il.rocciatore - Jul 30, 2019 9:29 am
Route Climbed: ENE Ridge / Arbengrat / ENE Ridge Date Climbed: october 2015 / july 2017 / july 20192015: Fresh snow the night before made us back off to the valley in the morning.
2017: Completely missed the entry couloir to the Arbegrat and started climbing to far to the right in the South Face. Several hours searching and up and down climbing later, we were defeated and headed back to the valley. Quite a bummer.
2019: Again fresh snow the night before, but following in the tracks of some guides we made good timing and reached the summit via the ENE Ridge. During descent we were pulling rappels along the upper part of the ridge and finally had to let the guides go. Good conditions on the snowy part. Rocky parts offer good possibilities for belaying. The Dülfer crack on the final part of the ridge below the summit could use a spit in place.
Very long day. Stayed another night in the Rothornhütte.
RoyD - Aug 17, 2009 4:49 pm Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2009
ENE-ridge, South face with descent over the Arbenridge and North faceENE-ridge over Wellenkuppe to the summit of the Ober Gabelhorn (Aug 15, 2009),South face with descent over the Arbenridge (Aug 30, 2009) and North face with descent over the ENE-ridge (Jul 10, 2012)
skileraar - Feb 1, 2009 8:04 am
Normal route (rothorn hut)Turned around at 4000 m. after witnessing an accident (two climbers felt down the ridge..)
Bart - Aug 17, 2008 11:23 am Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2008
S - FaceNice route, quite hard to find the exact right way!
Pierre smetsers - Dec 16, 2007 10:27 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2007
ArbengraatClimbing from Arbenbivak over Arbengraat(Arbenridge) to the top, The wheater wasn't so good.
But the climb was great 3+. after standing on the top we abseild down a few pitches and walked to the wellenkuppe (very Steep).
And than we didn't seeing anything, fog and very strong wind. We could not find ower way down from wellekuppe to the Rothornhutte. But after using the GPS we arrived just before nightime( Snow, Rain, storm, fog and thunder)
Cyrill - Nov 8, 2007 4:45 am Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2007
Obergabelhorn 4063mFantastic Tour to Obergabelhorn 4063m.
my picture are here: Link to Obergabelhorn 4063m
JanG - Aug 22, 2007 2:37 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2007
NE ridge from WellenkuppeThis was a memorable climb for me. The Wellenkuppe/Obergabelhorn combination presented a very long but exhilarating mix of very exposed, somewhat dangerous snow ridges (with drops of over 800 metres to huge crevasses below) and challenging rock-climbing pitches (it was quite tough to find good footholds on the rocks while wearing crampons on my boots!).
It took me more than 11 hours to complete the round trip back to the Rothorn hut whereas my sons Christoph & Alexander did it in barely 10 hours. We had great weather and a fresh layer of snow (it had snowed two days previously) to provide a nice cushion on the steep downclimb from the summit.
Highly recommended mountain (for acclimatization and rock-climbing training purposes) for anyone envisioning to climb the Matterhorn or Weisshorn!
Charles - Nov 28, 2005 8:44 am
Route Climbed: From the Rothorn Hutte Date Climbed: August 1986good day out!
Rahel Maria Liu - Dec 13, 2001 11:12 am
Route Climbed: Northface Date Climbed: June/24/2000We started from Mountet, climbed the wonderful Northface and returned by the Coeur-ridge (1/3), abseiled down to the north couloir and climbed down the rest.
We did not climb the short very easy final passage from the end of the northface on the W-ridge to the summit (about 20 min.) because we wanted to save time. This was good in the end, since we got lost in the fog on our way back through the moraines (we did not have GPS). With the darkness, we reached the Mountet-hut nevertheless. But if we hadn't the maybe 45 saved min. left we might not have found the Mountet-hut anymore but might have made an unplanned bivouac in the moraines .... So sometimes lazy people are the winners ... ;o)
schadik - Nov 23, 2001 11:49 pm
Route Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: '98 '99Been there twice now. Its a fantastic climb nothing like 450-500 VM of 45° snow and ice. The first time I did it we were back at the hut within 5.1/2hrs.
Next time I'll be taking my tele's with me.