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Cordillera Blanca - RANGE > Huascaran Sur > Climber's Log|
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| dwalters1 | Huascaran Sur Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2009 | |
| Big mountain - wish i was better acclimatized, i still am waiting for the chance to head back to huascaran. Garganta was more sketchy then i thought. I would recommend leaving VERY early from camp 1 to head through there. We left at 5am, and had a refrigerator sized block pass within 30 ft of my partner and I. Turned around on my summit push at around 6500m from bad AMS symptoms and hightailed it back to base camp. The route above camp 2 was ok, alot of crevasses. Also, there were LARGE avalanche debris fields on either side of camp 1. | |
| Posted Oct 20, 2009 1:34 pm | ||
| oliverkalt | Garganta Route  Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2001 | |
| Very out of breath and very cold. Avoid the Garganta too late in the day! We had scary slushy deep snow on the descent. It would probably have been safer to camp on Garganta once more. | |
| Posted Aug 7, 2009 2:19 am | ||
| kevin trieu | 5 days on the mountain... Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2009 | |
| 5 days on the mountain. 2 miserable nights at high camp, 19K' but no summit. apparently nobody made the summit in two weeks. in restrospect, we should have hired a mule to get to basecamp and our climbing schedule was a bit agressive. should not have skipped camp 1. | |
| Posted Jun 22, 2009 1:11 pm | ||
| Timothy Pearl | A good 6 days. Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2008 | |
| With Jim, Eric and Ben. Took our time gaining camps to be sure of acclimatization Base Camp, Moraine Camp, Camp 1, then Camp 2. Weather never really let up on the upper portions of the mountain. By the time we reached C1, we pushed through the Candeletta in ugly weather and set up C2 in full ugly col conditions. Never let up enough to even think of leaving the following night. Returned to Moraine Camp next day then to Huaraz the next. Weather didn't clear up again till about the 11th. | |
| Posted Aug 15, 2008 11:05 am | ||
| Eric Holle | La Garganta Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2008 | |
| Our team of Tim, Jim, Ben and I pushed up to Camp 2 in tough conditions. There were a few ice pitches to get through in the Candeletta that were quite trying to our stamina, but we got it done. Once at Camp 2, the already bad weather became worse. That night, there was quite a lot of wind and new snowfall creating questionable route and avalanche condidtions. We retreated back to the Moraine Camp but now know the beta for Huascaran Sur....attack this peak via El Escudo. | |
| Posted Aug 14, 2008 10:57 pm | ||
| MichaelJ | The Shield right direct Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2007 | |
| Silvio and I hiked up to Moraine camp (4800) but he got very sick that night so we didn´t leave for our high camp (5600) until late the next day. We checked out the approach to the Shield on Day Three and decided to cross the ´schrund on the far right (5800) and try a direct line to the summit ridge--the longest ice line we could spot on the face. On Day Four we left the tent at 3 am with a single headlamp (Silvio´s) and a liter of water each after using the last of our fuel to melt snow. On the first pitch at 4 am Silvio´s light stopped working but he kept climbing. I led the rest of the climb to the ridge (ice, ice-neve, neve, totaling eight or so rope lengths), which we reached at 11:30. Then came an endless slog to join the Normal Route around 6500. At this point it was late, getting cloudy, and we were knackered, so we descended the Normal. We reached our tent at 7:30, having bummed a couple of liters of water from a team on the way down. Preliminary research indicates this may be a new route. | |
| Posted Jul 14, 2007 7:23 pm | ||
| highice | almost a solo | |
| my partner was hung over and sick so I started going to the other camps seeking a team to join. Met some nice guys from iceland and climbed with them to high camp. They all got sick, but one decided he didn't want me to solo so joined me. he started feeling good and we did top out together. What made him so driven was he promised a friend back home he'd get a picture of himself holding a frigin life size poster a Brittany Spears (or however you spell her name). So I took the shot...whatever! | |
| Posted Jan 30, 2007 8:56 pm | ||
| Lubos | Normal North Route Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2001 | |
| I climbed this mountain in July 2001, I had great weather and I only met 5 people during my climb. It was the most difficult solo climb I have done so far. Solo climb. | |
| Posted Aug 2, 2006 1:57 am | ||
| alexclimb | Huascaran North, Normal Date Climbed: May 26, 2006 | |
| Tryed but been stopped by waist deep snow a bit above Camp II. Almost nobody on the mountain, no trek but the weather is above any compliments - no drop of rain or grain of snow for more then two weeks... | |
| Posted May 26, 2006 6:49 pm | ||
| tetontom | Normal Garganta Route Date Climbed: Jul 10, 1999 | |
| Lots of people on the mountain, but still before the days of the Base Camp Refugio. My first views of the Cordillera Huayhuash from the summit! | |
| Posted Apr 19, 2006 2:52 am | ||
| baumann_pat | Route climbed: normal route | |
| I spent a total of 7 days on this expedition. I climbed solo. The coca tea sure tasted good when I got back to the high camp after the summit. | |
| Posted Mar 2, 2006 4:20 am | ||
| Trabalon | Normal Route (North Summit) Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2004 | |
| My friend Pau and I climbed north summit of huascaran 6655 m in 2004. We liked to climb south summit, but the normal route of it, its impossible to climb since 2002 I think. The objective of the majority of expedicions is nowadays the summit north. The south summit can be climbed for Escudo route (D+), but is rarely in conditions and it's quite dangerous and heavy. The summer 2004 few expeditions climbed north summit, and only two or three the south summit Escudo. Both very happy with the summit because we climbed alone (with 24 and 22 years old) without guides and porters. A great experience, I explain this history in future to my sons!! | |
| Posted Feb 28, 2006 3:40 pm | ||
| tdoughty | Route Climbed: normal Date Climbed: july 1978 | |
| as an 18 yo on first international climb. partner came down with PE on final summit slopes. Also, rescued Seatlle climber suffering from sever PE from saddle. | |
| Posted Oct 17, 2005 6:07 pm | ||
| davidbruder | Route Climbed: shield Date Climbed: aug 04 | |
| did musho-summit-musho in 24h...(light and fast on this 3800m, eh?!) reach the summit on hard ice in 14.5h.... thanks to the austrians for the tea... david bruder & andres zegers | ||
| Posted Sep 12, 2004 11:32 pm | ||
| Miguel Angel Perez | Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: July 22, 2004 | |
| This year was a very bad season, with bad weather, a lot of snow and lots of avalanches. No one reached the south summit via the normal route (at least until the 25 of July). Only two French got to the summit via the Shield Route (El Escudo) and was early in the season. We got to Camp 1 and that night we heard lots of avalanches. The next day early in the morning we started climbing to Camp 2 but the snow conditions were not good and shortly after we decided to turn back and go down. It was a great experience and I hope I can go back soon. Huascaran is an impressive, beautiful and huge mountain but should be well respected. | |
| Posted Aug 9, 2004 5:05 am | ||
| jstanley | Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: 8 July 1971 | |
| Thomas Samway and I reached the summit this day by the normal route, while Laurie Skreslet and Larry Derby also reached the summit by the western spur. A more complete account is given in the trip report "The Priest Climbs Huascaran". | |
| Posted Apr 19, 2004 11:22 pm | ||
| Nyle Walton | Route Climbed: Normal from Musho in the Callejon de Huaylas Date Climbed: Early July 1971 | |
| Three young and eager members of Outbound along with a Catholic priest called Father Tom and and yours untruly established a camp at the base of the Huascaran Glacier just below 16,000 feet. I remained there the next day while the others carried loads and established an intermediate camp amid the crevasses above 17,000 feet. Two returned to base camp while two slept at the intermediate camp. I followed them up the next morning and spent a fitful night with two others crowded in a two-man tent. The next day we carried loads higher up and stashed them just above the Garganta and below the 20,000-foot saddle between Huascaran Norte and Huascaran Sur. We then descended back to the intermediate camp for another crowded night of three burly men in the two-man tent. The next day we ascended again with our tent on our backs toward the Garganta. On the steepest part, a strap on my rucksack broke. This demoralized me so much that all I could think about was having a big beefsteak and beer in Huaraz. I decided to forsake Huascaran then and there, being in no mood to share a two-man tent with two others for another uncomfortable and sleepless night. Cautiously I descended the glacier alone, pausing frequently to take pictures of the Callejon de Huaylas from high up on what is probably the most greatest extent of glacial ice within the tropics. Very visible was the track of the tremendous avalanche (aluvion) dislodged by the May 31, 1970 earthquake from Huascaran Norte that had swept down a ravine for 13,000 feet and scoured away the second city, Yungay, killing its 20,000 inhabitants before it came to a halt at the base of the Cordillera Negra and continued as a mud flow down the Rio Santa past Caras and through the Canon del Pato toward the sea. As I was dining on steak and beer in Huaraz three days later, my four sunburned and beaming companions appeared and announced their triumph. I had mixed feelings of regret and envy. I consoled myself by acknowledging the fact that I had contributed to the beginnings of a successful climb of the highest peak in the tropics. For an full account of the climb, I refer you to Jonathan Stanley's log entry just above mine. A group picture of the five initial members of the party and Huascaran from Musho before the climb and another view of climbers on the lower glacier of Huascaran from base camp are included in the photo section of Huascaran Sur main page. | |
| Posted Nov 1, 2003 10:01 am | ||
| TodoVertical | Route Climbed: The Shield Route Date Climbed: Aug. 1999 | |
| We left from Camp 1 to follow the Shield Route. At about 6.500 m we joined the trail used on the normal route and only one of us three continued to the summit. We were too tired to reach the summit. Sat down and waited 3 hours for our friend to came back. With our arses freezing cold, and happy for completing the route got back to Camp 1 just before dark. | |
| Posted Dec 4, 2002 1:45 pm | ||
| max | Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: July 1999 | |
| After 7 hours ascending from Gaganta we reached th top of Peru - breathless and happy. | ||
| Posted May 13, 2002 12:58 pm | ||
| Mountaindoc | Route Climbed: Garganta Date Climbed: August, 29th, 2000 | |
| What a huge pile of ice... I climbed with M. Trewhellar (thanks Matt !) after a series of major accidents (ice-avalanches) in the Garganta-icefall ! Only speed helps to reduce risk on that mountain! Take care and be quick ! | ||
| Posted Apr 5, 2002 2:03 am | ||
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