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Lyskamm Climber's Log
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TodoVerticalEast Ridge to EAST LYSKAMM - Guiding  Sucess!



On the way up.
More Pictures of the Lyskamm ascent
Posted Nov 30, 2009 7:18 pm

schulzjTraverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2005

Probably the best day I've ever had in the Alps. Perfect weather on a fantastic needle-sharp ridge between the 2 summits. From the east summit we looked down to the Monte Rosa sattelite peaks all of which we climbed that same day.
Posted Oct 18, 2009 1:12 pm

SarahThompsonLyskamm Traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2009

Began at the Klein Matterhorn station and went up and over Castor. Continued to Lyskamm West and traversed to Lyskamm East. The 5km long knife edge snow ridge was wild and beautiful and required much concentration. Rapped over a serac to reach the Grenz Glacier and hiked out to the Gornergrat. Exhausting but incredible!
Posted Sep 7, 2009 11:20 am

icypeakLyskamm Traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2009

Started out from Rifugio Quintino Sella and after reaching the first fantastic summit, continued on the narrow (and never ending!)ridge to the second summit and then down to Rifugio Gnifetti. The whole route was very exposed, at times, just wide enough for one foot..not much time to look around at what I assume must have been just gorgeous scenery! An absolutely amazing climb, loved every second of it!!
Posted Jul 12, 2009 6:04 pm

JanStrzelecki1990Normal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2005

Me and my dad started early from Gnifetti, went to Lysjoch, and ascended Lyskamm. After that, we went back down the same way, and went to Margherita.
Posted Apr 27, 2009 5:07 pm

boriskrielenLyskamm traverse W-E  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2007

Climbed it with Frank Haagsma. First we did Lyskamm West from the refugio Sella. Continued to the Lyskamm East - very airy ridge! - and down to the refugio Gnifetti. Conditions were very good.
Posted Feb 13, 2009 7:58 am

oconnellrRoute: west Lyskamm from SW  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2008

Fantastic day out with great weather and good fun mountaineering. Would have loved to do the traverse had we been more flexible in our plans. The north face routes look truly sick! Much respect for anyone completing any of these massive undertakings.
Posted Nov 2, 2008 10:16 pm

bc44caesarTraverse E-W  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2008

Started from Gnifetti Hut and reached the start of the ridge after an hour or two. Climbed over the Bergschrund on the left and went up the face on steep snow until the ridge. From there the fantastic and narrow ridge seemed to never end! Only one spot of rock to overcome on the traverse, then an easy descent from the West summit. One of the best routes I've done!!
Posted Jul 9, 2008 5:07 am

jasonconnellWest  Sucess!

Awesome day turned ugly. Left Sella, climbed Lyskamn West and continued on to the Gnifetti hut in deep slush. very hot day and poor planning on our part.
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1130/1123092355_99c1e3cc02_b.jpg
Posted Nov 24, 2007 9:54 pm

schmid_thLucky or unlucky?
Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2007

After 1 m of fresh snow we started to climb Lyskamm from Mantova hut. Because of the fresh snow and no track it was hard going. A myocardithis nearly killed me so we had to return 100 m beneath the summit. But I´m happy to be alive and that I came down... After months of regenerating I maybe try the mountain in 2008 again.
Posted Oct 17, 2007 5:19 am

mulidivareseLyskamm east: the 30th  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2007

and then it was the time for the Lyskamm east
Planned for so many years.....
The weather during the last ten days of this 2007 august was very unstable. The forecast just gave us a chanche of clear weather for about 12 hours between saturday and sunday. We left Gnifetti hut at 5:10. At 8:10 we reached the summit by the east-ridge. At 10 we were back to Gnifetti just before the weather turned very bad. At 9 the lyskamm was already totally kept by clouds.
Wonderfull, knife edged, aesthetic ridge. A step into the sky.
and it was mine 30th fourthausant summit of alp.

Valerio e Marco
Posted Aug 20, 2007 1:49 am

becquerelEast ridge to east peak ....
Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2007

Wonderful ridge ! But it was too windy and cloudy that day, so we had to give up. Doesn't matter .... I am looking forward to next attempt :-)
Posted Aug 19, 2007 6:09 pm

BorRoute climbed: West approach from Quintino Sella hut
Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2007

We tried to reach the west summit from Quintino Sella hut but we were not on the top because of the too strong wind and because of blisters. :)
Posted Jul 22, 2007 1:24 pm

GriffithsWest-East Traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2005

Absolutely perfect weather, wonderful day of climbing
Posted Jun 5, 2007 7:16 am

BritetteE to W Traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 1996

Climbed the SW arete from Felikjoch and Castor. Traversed E to W and descended the E arete. The sun was rising as we reached the W summit. Incredibly beautiful. Traversing in the dark was good because I couldn't see how far the drop was. Exposure was huge as we weaved our way along the cornice.
Posted May 25, 2007 2:27 pm

erik_ravenstijnOne of my biggest dreams  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2006

This was a dream come true: traversing one of the most beautiful ridges in the Alps: the Lyskamm ridge. Tears almost start rolling when writing this. You can check some photos at: www.climbingtours.net.
Posted Oct 7, 2006 8:34 pm

p-mikeWest Lyskamm from Q.Sella  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 18, 1996

My first 4000er..wonderful!!
Posted Mar 15, 2006 11:57 am

hanswFrom Felickjoch to Lyskamm W  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2000

"The only problem will be the wind", said Freddy when we started from the hut with the intention to traverse the Liskamm from west to east. And he was right. The wind was so hard that we almost couldn't move on the summit ridge. There was nothing to do but to turn back at the west summit. Exciting tour. (July 26, 2000).
Posted Mar 10, 2006 9:08 pm

connectRoute Climbed: E ridge Date Climbed: july 1994  Sucess!

leaving from the queue ascending towards Margherita refuge was a great relief...

The route is not particularly difficult but we encountered a lot of massif cornices. During the descent the weather changed and find the right way was difficult (due to the cornices, undistinguishable from the sky).

mass
Posted Jan 23, 2006 5:21 am

bbirtleRoute Climbed: Klucker-Neruda NE Face Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2005  Sucess!

Took us 11 hours in an epic struggle due to horrible ice conditions and powder-covered rock conditions. 19.5 hours from our bivy site above Monte Rosa Hut to the summit and back! AWESOME!
Posted Aug 15, 2005 8:05 am

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