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Mountain Loop Highway > Glacier Peak > Climber's Log|
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| flahaut | Long Approach  | |
| Long Approach. Going up and over Dissapointment Peak left our party quite exposed. | |
| Posted Jan 22, 2007 1:08 am | ||
| nodbod | Cool Glacier | |
| Awesome climb. Definately the funnest volcano climb in Washington | |
| Posted Jan 19, 2007 10:41 pm | ||
| d_shorb | with Huxley college | |
| did this during college, and had a few days of clear and few of rain. fun trip, cool area and perspective views. | |
| Posted Jan 6, 2007 8:37 am | ||
| Andy Dewey | Route Climbed: Disappointment Peak Cleaver Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2006 | |
| Camped at White Pass, started at 6:30am and summited at 3:30pm after making a costly mistake by attempting to go up the Gerdine/Cool Glaciers around Disappointment Pk. Cool was so broken it was too dangerous to ascend without a rope, so we had to turn back and go directly over Disappointment Pk which took a long time. Got back to camp 10:45pm after 16 hrs of climbing :( Still a fun time though. | |
| Posted Sep 3, 2006 1:13 am | ||
| osatrik | Frostbite Ridge - 3rd try is the charm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 1999 | |
| Bailed one year at the Rabbit Ears due to party inexperience. Bailed another year in the crater when a climber was injured (crampon gash) dropping into the crater, just as I was enjoying the steep ice on the other side of the crater -- so near and yet so far. Four OSAT climbers, Dick W, Bill L, Jenny G and I, finally did the route in 1999, but summit conditions were foggy and we actually pulled out our compasses to get to the right quadrant of the crater on the way out. | |
| Posted Sep 2, 2006 3:51 pm | ||
| brother | Gerdine/Cool Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2006 | |
| What a great place to climb! Great party (Bob and Ty), solitude, strenuous approach, great weather, nice glaciers. The summit was calm, the view fantastic. | |
| Posted Aug 21, 2006 8:51 pm | ||
| gcap | South Ridge / Gerdine / Cool Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2006 | |
| Turned back by low visibility, rain and high winds two days in a row... First trip on a glacier and no regrets. Despite the weather had a great time with great company and learned a lot. I will be back. | |
| Posted Aug 16, 2006 12:58 am | ||
| RandyS | Gerdine/Cool Glacier Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2006 | |
| The route description on this site is excellent and it saved us a lot of time on the approach. Upper Foam Basin is a little difficult to negotiate and find the easiest traverse route from above, but the photo on this site taken from the other direction shows it quite well. The temperatures on the trip were brutal - in the 90's with no wind. On our 4 day trip, we made first camp at White Pass; our intended high camp the second day was Glacier Gap but the heat and exhaustion from the first day got us only to 6700' in the moraine of the former White Chuck Glacier. The only remaining portion of the glacier is the high, southeast portion. We got a 3 a.m. start on the third day from our high camp but with no moon, high overcast and almost total darkness, negotiating the upper moraine was slow. Once above Glacier Gap, the route was straight-forward. The Gerdine Glacier was fairly gentle with no crevasses in the upper portion. We stayed just below a rockfall field off of Disappointment Peak and then negotiated a 100 ft section of blue ice where the Gerdine met the Cool Glacier. From there, we stayed close to Disappointment Peak to the col and then easy scree/ash and a final steep snow gully to the summit. 8 hours from high camp and 4 hours down. Return to car from high camp was 8 hours on the last day. My suggestion for this route is to make it as early as possible to ensure snow travel where the White Chuck Glacier used to be. | ||
| Posted Jul 24, 2006 5:21 pm | ||
| mvs | Frostbite Ridge Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2002 | |
| Enjoyable, lonely climb of Frostbite Ridge (solo). Slept on top...amazing sunset. I met Doxey Kemp and party on the way down...they had climbed the adjacent Kennedy Glacier. | |
| Posted Mar 16, 2006 6:48 am | ||
| etsnyd | Route Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: Sep 1, 1985 | |
| A really beautiful mountain in a beautiful setting. My favorite of all of the volcanoes. | |
| Posted Feb 23, 2006 4:27 pm | ||
| mandrake | Route Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2003 | |
| Bit cloudy and cold down below, but weather improved remarkably. Clear and tremendous views off of the summit. | |
| Posted Oct 31, 2005 7:40 pm | ||
| Norman | Route Climbed: White Chuck/Gerdine/Cool Glacier Date Climbed: September 5-7, 2005 | |
| Fantastic mountain to climb! Remote area with few people. Perfect weather for climbing friend Nick and myself. Took three days, no one else on the mountain on summit day. It is about 30 miles round trip via N Fork Saulk trail. | |
| Posted Sep 9, 2005 10:46 am | ||
| cgclimber | Route Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: July 04, 2000 | |
| Came back for seconds. | |
| Posted Jul 22, 2005 4:59 pm | ||
| cgclimber | Route Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: July 06, 1999 | |
| My first time on a glacier. | |
| Posted Jul 22, 2005 4:57 pm | ||
| Duseks | Route Climbed: Sitkum Date Climbed: June 21st 2000 | |
| Dad and I took the plunge. Stayed on top, beautifull night. | |
| Posted May 30, 2005 9:17 pm | ||
| Aaron Dyer | Route Climbed: Frostbit Ridge Date Climbed: July 2003 | |
| Weather turned us back two days in a row | |
| Posted Mar 23, 2005 11:16 pm | ||
| cascadeclimber1978 | Route Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: Septermber 2004 | |
| Beautiful day, beautiful mountain. We broke out of the clouds around 8,000 ft and had excellent views from the top. Spent about 1 hour on top and decended the same route. | |
| Posted Nov 14, 2004 2:26 pm | ||
| cgailey | Route Climbed: Sitkum Date Climbed: July 2001 | |
| What an incredible mountain. To emphasize how attractive it is, a friend of mine and I from Anchorage both flew down to climb it. And to think that we don't have enough mountains to climb in AK! This route is very tame...just a long arduous hike. Well worth the effort and I would do it again in an instant. Unfortunately, our trip was cut short (we planned to hike out via the PCT heading north after the summit) by bad weather, but the time spent at Boulder Basin was most excellent. Mac and Cheese at the summit was nice as well! | |
| Posted Aug 29, 2004 12:58 am | ||
| Derek Franzen | Route Climbed: White Chuck Glacier / Disapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 14/15/16 1978 | |
| With Ann & Ken Winkes, Barb Richey and other SAC member, Tad. Long hike in to Glacier 1st day. Climbed up White Mountain on way in, great place for photos. Next day up Glacier to Cleaver, climbed directly up Cleaver and then on to summit. Fairly high winds at summit, did not hang around too long. Back to camp, good glissade down alongside Cleaver. White Chuck glacier seemed quite flat on way down. After leaving glacier members seperated somewhat on way to camp. Tad didn't show up at camp and after 1/2 hour we went searching for him. Tad was sound asleep on a boulder near the terminus of the glacier, we coaxed him back to camp before dark. Another long hike out the next day. Not too many flies, good weather. | |
| Posted Aug 16, 2004 10:48 am | ||
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