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The Tian Shan > Khan Tengri > Climber's Log|
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| Jelena | Danger  | |
| Old fix rope broke. Almost fall to death. Very happy to summit. | |
| Posted Aug 2, 2008 3:04 am | ||
| alexclimb | Route Climbed: North Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2006 | |
| Did all the program in two weeks and been the last climbers from the North in the season. Quite hard route, but fixed ropes are everywhere, normally in very doubtful conditions. The Mountain is unbelievably beautiful (if visible). Started from the Camp III 6100 at 7.30 and been on the summit a bit past midday and at 15.30 back in the Camp. Snow storm all the way, no summit views at all. | |
| Posted Aug 29, 2006 7:28 pm | ||
| BigLee | Route Climbed: Progrebetsky Route, (Classical Southern Route) Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2005 | |
| Crap climbing conditions on the west ridge. After ascending deep powder snow and literally going nowhere at times we had to turn back at about 6850m late in the afternoon because of bad weather. We descended under nightfall. I had crampon problems and so descended slower than my partners on the fixed lines. Around midnight, amidst poor visibilty, I opted to halt on the ridge until the morning after losing the route. The night was freezing and by the morning my right hand was badly frostbitten and I had also lost sensation in my toes. Fortunately the weather and visibility improved around sunrise and I quickly found the route again and made it back to the col around 5am. We were hit by an avalanche off Chapayeva a few days earlier and the helicopter that was supposed to be flying us back to Kakara after the climb crashed (later making news around the world)! An eventful trip! If I go back I'll either try the north side or the south side along with Pobeda. Not sure I want to take that avalanche prone classic southern route again though. | |
| Posted Jan 26, 2006 7:27 pm | ||
| cristakhe | Route Climbed: north classical route Date Climbed: 13 august 2005 Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2005 | |
| This is a very beautiful mountain that you realy need to see. In the summit day I have been angry because I think that 20 climbers in the same day on the route to the peak are to much. I have to wait more than 1 hour at 6700m to pass a 20m rock barrier. But once I have seen the view from the top I have forgetten all this problems. | |
| Posted Aug 22, 2005 8:40 am | ||
| alex schwarzkopf | Route Climbed: North Date Climbed: 10 August 2003 | |
| Great climb (as it is my only one) | ||
| Posted Feb 1, 2004 11:14 am | ||
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