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| spotly | North Ridge  Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2009 | |
| Perfect weather - slight breeze on the route and calm on the summit, where we spent over an hour taking in the sights and making new friends. The climb down was much more difficult than going up. The red band was an exposed but easy jugfest up a chimney. There were two obvious choices and we chose the one on the right. The grey band had only a few stiff moves but it was quite exposed. A classic climb but a nerve-wracking rubble pile to descend. Could someone please pave that section below the red band? :) | |
| Posted Aug 10, 2009 10:29 am | ||
| setrent | North Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2007 | |
| New snow and some verglass made the climbing above the Red Band interesting. Crampons needed, ice axe nice. Perfect weather, except for the wind. | ||
| Posted Sep 4, 2007 12:06 am | ||
| Rick Huff | rick huff Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2007 | |
| My friend Rod and I climbed the North Ridge in perfect conditions. No need for crampons or ice axe. Lots of loose rock. The day after we summited a Canadian climber was beaned by a rock dislodged by another climber. Mostly a scramble with a couple of pitches worth roping up for. Definitely a beautiful mountain! The "Gmoser Highway" approach hike was scarier to me than anything on the route. | |
| Posted Aug 15, 2007 6:56 pm | ||
| pvalchev | North Ridge Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2007 | |
| Beautiful weather and perfect conditions. Descended the ridge and spent another night at the hut. Great weekend with Hedd-wyn and Caitlin. | |
| Posted Aug 3, 2007 10:07 pm | ||
| reboyles | Mt Assiniboine Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2007 | |
| We climbed the N. Ridge via the southern B.C. approach on July 17, under near perfect conditions and descended the S.W. Face. | |
| Posted Jul 30, 2007 7:57 am | ||
| Dow Williams | Solo Ascent Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2006 | |
| This completes the big three of Kananaskis vis solo ascents, Mount Joffre, Mount Sir Douglas and Mount Assiniboine. All three are relativley easy climbs, but Assiniboine the easiest for sure. 8200' in and out via the Baymag Mine approach, very scenic and involves some glacier travel, 3200' from the hut on summit day, 4.5 hrs hut to hut, not far off from the record. I rapped three times through the grey bands due to ice. Sepp went up the day before with a couple of clients and turned around due to ice in the gray bands, but most of that was gone Tuesday morning. Stacy went into the hut with me, lot more scenic than we thought it was going to be (wild "port hole" waterfall). The glacier travel was fun. Assinboine Lake is an incredible spot. More folks should consider Assiniboine in Sept, you will likly have the hut and mountain to yourself as we did. This advice was given to me by a friend many years ago, and he was right. 14 people crammed into a hut and (an August weekend in 2006) climbing the same mountain can kind of affect the wilderness experience. We never saw another human, not one for the approach, climb or hike out. | |
| Posted Sep 15, 2006 3:38 pm | ||
| couchclimber | North Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2006 | |
| Glad the weather was perfect for my first alpine route. Lots of easy scrambling up to the red band and then it was more fun easy climbing. Descending took longer and more tiring as I ran out of steam. Guess the 2 hours of sleep and 2 granola bars for breakfast was not enough. | |
| Posted Aug 9, 2006 1:01 am | ||
| Oznid | NE Ridge solo Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2006 | |
| I went on this trip w/ Fred Beckey who stayed behind because of a sore back. I wasn't totally set on soloing the climb, but started out at 5:30AM and just kept going until I summitted at 8:25. Fun route up, lousy descent (4.25 hours). The climb is great above the red band, lame below it (chossy!). But, glad I went - the mountain is striking! | |
| Posted Jul 27, 2006 5:58 pm | ||
| Fuggedaboudit | North Face Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2005 | |
| Winter conditions. | |
| Posted Jun 19, 2006 12:39 pm | ||
| UncleBob | Route Climbed: North ridge Date Climbed: August 13, 2005 | |
| Lots of snow for summer conditions, 13 hour round trip from the hind hut. Straightforward (if you're not bonked) but sustained climbing. Thanks for the beer, whoever you are :) | ||
| Posted Aug 22, 2005 2:53 am | ||
| brutus of wyde | Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: August 2003 | |
| Nurse Ratchet and I had the mountain to ourselves on a warm, dry August day. Climbed to the summit unroped in tennis shoes, ate a hot lunch and napped for an hour before breaking out the rope for the rappels. | |
| Posted Apr 12, 2005 6:01 pm | ||
| Pawel Krol | Route Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: july 2004 | |
| Did not summit, bad conditions of snow, ice, weather | |
| Posted Mar 3, 2005 12:51 pm | ||
| jstanley | Route Climbed: normal (north) route Date Climbed: 17 July 1968 | |
| My father Edward Stanley, brother Bevan Stanley, and I, under the leadership of Rudi Gertsch, climbed this peak in winter conditions from the lodge at Sunburst Lake. The summit was completely socked in. The round trip took 18 hours. Since the time of this ascent the glacier has retreated and the approach route has been modified. | |
| Posted Apr 7, 2004 5:47 pm | ||
| Wyoming Bob | Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: August 7, 2003 | |
| Second try did the trick. Summer conditions, took axe and crampons, never used. | ||
| Posted Aug 14, 2003 10:00 pm | ||
| e_wire | Route Climbed: South Face Date Climbed: August 2001 | |
| We underestimated the route. The South Face is very wide and somewhat challanges your route finding habilities. We reached about 3400 m and turned aroud due to clouds and also lack of time. | |
| Posted Jun 10, 2003 11:45 am | ||
| jdmillerclimb | Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: August 23, 02 | |
| 3 hrs. from the lodge up to the hind hut on the 22nd. Early start on the 23rd (4:00a.m.) under ideal conditions. Loose snow and some ice but generally dry conditions. Crampons should be brought along. Did not use them that day but 2 days prior most climbers did which gives you an idea of how things can change close to the continental divide. While its a straightforward 5.5 on a fine day one should not under estimate this mountain. The ridge is completely exposed so mistakes are unacceptable. Poor weather can make things messy cranking up the tech level several notches especially under icy conditions. Summit in 4 hrs - less to descend. One needs to be very careful of people below when descending on this rotten heap of rock. | ||
| Posted Sep 22, 2002 7:46 am | ||
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