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Mount Olympus Climber's Log
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NormanOlympus via Blue Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2006

Great climb, good weather. It's been about 35 years since I was here last. What a trip. I'll leave a trip report and pictures. My son, Andrew and friend Nick covered 44 miles and summit in 3 days.
Posted Sep 7, 2006 4:44 pm

brotherBlue Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2006

A brilliant climb in beautiful country. Weather was great, rock on summit block was a little sketchy. Hoh river trail is fast and makes for really great hiking.
Posted Aug 15, 2006 9:55 pm

Peak FreakBlue Glacier / North Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2006

Ditto what Martin Said!
Posted Jul 7, 2006 6:36 am

Martin CashBlue Glacier / North Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2006

Eileen, Andrej, and I climbed this route in a nice relaxed pace taking 4 days total. We took 2 half days to approach the glacier meadows camp, then departed for the summit at 5:00AM on day number 3. We summited just before noon and were back to camp by 3:30. Fun climb with beautiful views. The upper Blue Glacier is breathtaking. Painful hike out with blisters on my feet. Loved the view down from the Hoh High Bridge. Had a great time!
Posted Jul 6, 2006 6:54 pm

etsnydBlue Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 2, 1984

I've climbed a lot of mountains. This is probably the most beautiful mountain I've ever seen. The view from the top of the Blue Glacier Moraine is out of this world.
Posted Feb 23, 2006 4:01 pm

mandrakeRoute Climbed: Blue Glacier Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2002  Sucess!

Long way in, but beautiful mountain!
Posted Oct 31, 2005 7:47 pm

Franko1946Route Climbed: Blue glacier Date Climbed: July 1981  Sucess!
Nice climb, but crowded on July 4
Posted Oct 2, 2005 10:55 pm

Brian FrederickRoute Climbed: Blue Glacier Date Climbed: July 16, 1979  Sucess!

Hiked up in one day to Glacier meadows thru heat wave.Chris and I started to climb around 4AM with bare Ice and running water on Blue glacier. Beat the heat to the top of the snow dome, did a nice litlle rock climb in crampons to get past the bergschrund and summited by 9AM. Sat on top in perfect warm weather for about an hour and Chris reminded me it was my 25th birthday! Slogged down thru increasing heat, packed up and started out. Great climb!
Posted May 17, 2005 6:38 pm

norbertcRoute Climbed: Blue Glacier - Crystal Pass - Summit Date Climbed: 15 August 2004  Sucess!

We took a very liesurely hike in along the Hoh River, finally camping at Glacier Meadows on our third night.



4 am start in a group of three amateurs and one guide (Jim Cameron of Olympic Mountaineering - Port Angeles, WA). We crossed the Blue Glacier at dawn. The Snow Dome glacier route was full of crevasses, so Jim let us up the (non-technical) rock to the right of the glacier descending from the Snow Dome to reach the Snow Dome itself. The route was marked with small rock piles. From there on to Crystal Pass, where all snowbridges were melted out. We climbed in and out of the first crevasse, then skirted the second by climbing between the rock and ice. We finally reached the Summit Block at 11:30 and summitted around noon after our guide did the free climb up to belay the rest of us.



The summit rock section is about 80' or so high; the first 40 or 50 feet are a mildly exposed scramble followed by an almost vertical climb with moderate exposure, but only one somewhat complicated move. There is a lot of loose rock - you absolutely want to wear a helmet!



The weather was perfectly clear, the temperature warm, and the wind mostly calm; we spent 1 and 1/2 hours on the summit. There were two other climbers on the Mountain this day, who arrived and departed the summit as we enjoyed the views.



Our guide essentially winched each of us down off the airy summit. On the return to Glacier Meadows the snow was soft and our guide belayed us down the steep bits whenever an open crevasse lay directly below. Return to Glacier Meadows at 8 pm.



It was a great day, a beautiful mountain.
Posted Sep 2, 2004 7:37 pm

HalikuRoute Climbed: Blue Glacier Date Climbed: May 5, 2004

We had the mountain to ourselves. Conditions were perfect with occasional times in the clouds once we were on the snow dome. We used the early season route options whenever possible. The crux of the climb was the west peak as it was covered in snow and ice. A short ice climb on the north side allowed me to put a belay in for my partners, Axe and Old Guide, to climb up and join me on the top.



It was a long day due to the early season conditions. We took 14.5 hours round trip from Glacier Meadows. Click here for the trip report.
Posted May 10, 2004 11:03 am

ITRADRoute Climbed: Blue Glacier Date Climbed: August 2002  Sucess!

I climbed Mount Olympus with Carol Scott of Ashland KY. and Barry Richardson of Lexington KY. It was the first time I climbed with Barry and only the second with Carol. In the pouring rain, it took two days to get to Glacier Meadows. There the weather gave us a break we made a run for the summit. On the summit we had cookies and lots of sunshine. We made a quick decent to the Blue Glacier. Crossed the Glacier then back to camp. An excellent trip, I brought back lot's of memories a few good pic's and made a couple of great friends.
Posted Dec 12, 2003 9:14 pm

iandotenRoute Climbed: Blue Glacier Date Climbed: July 31, 2003  Sucess!
Took a leisurely 4 day trip. A fast and hot day 1 to Elk Lake for cooling off swim. Short day 2 to camp at Caltech moraine. Day 3 to summit and back out to Olympus Guard station. Day 4 to car. Hot and dry the whole way. Had high camp and summit to ourselves, incredible views. Climbed straight up the summit face over some loose rock (5.4 at most). Would definitely recommend approach shoes for the first 13+ miles (probably all the way to the moraine) so your feet don't turn to meat like Greg's (I won't post the photo but trust me, it's bad).
Posted Oct 1, 2003 6:45 pm

rfboltonRoute Climbed: Blue Glacier Date Climbed: August 4, 2003  Sucess!

We took parts of two days to hike into Glacier Meadows. Six of us started at 4AM Monday, summitting at noon. There was a freeway all the way to the top from the west flank of the lower Blue Glacier. Hiked all the way out on Tuesday. Perfect weather for the four days. It was so dry that many campsites had no water except the Hoh River - not a pleasant situation. Great mountain, and great trip!
Posted Aug 10, 2003 4:37 pm

rpcRoute Climbed: Blue Glacier Date Climbed: July 4-6, 2003  Sucess!

My wife Shirley, our friend Andrew and I set out from car at 7am on Friday morning. Got to Glacier Meadows at 4:30 pm with many relaxing breaks on the way. Perfect weather. Up at 3:30 am on Saturday for a 4am start in crappy (fog/drizzle) weather. By the time we reached the summit (10 or 11am) the sky opened up and we had a great view of the Olympus Massif. Crevasses on the Blue were mostly covered up. There was a thinnish snow bridge over a huge crevasse (or bershrund) high up on the Snow Dome (just below the saddle near Five Fingers). Took a ~5.4 variation up the summit block (led by Andrew) to the left of the 4th class (looks more like low 5th class) route. It's about 80-90 feet of climbing. Many parties on the mountain. Well beaten track all the way to the summit block. Down to Glacier Meadows for a quick dinner. Start hiking/running back down at 5:45 pm on Saturday. Ran out of energy 5 miles shy of car (5-mi Camp) at about 10pm. Bivied there and got to car 9am Sunday for a grand total of 50 hrs. For us mortals, that was fast enough. Incredible mountain. The ice fall on the upper Blue is one of the most spectacular sights I've seen!



More details in summit report.
Posted Jul 7, 2003 9:03 am

Joe HanssenRoute Climbed: Blue Glacier Date Climbed: Summer '96  Sucess!

This was one of my favorite climbs. Hiking through the Hoh Rain Forest sets the tone. Keven Gaidos and I took our time getting to Olympus, we planned on reaching the summit on the third morning. On the second day we ran into a climbing buddy who told us that the latest reports were that a storm was coming off the Pacific later that evening. We high tailed it to the Glacier Meadows Ranger Station and the ranger confirmed the report.



From here we decided to try and summit that evening as it would be our only good chance. We did, around 7 pm, just in time to watch the clouds rolling in. We were only able to descend about 500' before setting up camp. We got pounded that night. There was no snow accumilation because it was all flying sideways, but there were gusts that were strong enough to collapse the NF mountaineering tent. This happened at about five in the morning, and our only choice was to leave in the storm.



We made it down unscathed, and happy.
Posted Jul 29, 2002 9:40 am

sshankleRoute Climbed: Blue Glacier Date Climbed: September 5, 2001  Sucess!

This montain is unbelievable! Don't let the approach scare you off, go do it.
Posted Nov 12, 2001 10:53 am

D SmithRoute Climbed: Blue Glacier Date Climbed: August 1996  Sucess!

A 3-day trip -- Hiked to Glacier Meadows on day one. Started at 3 a.m. the following morning for the summit. Sunny and warm. Hiked all the way out the 3rd day.
Posted Aug 6, 2001 2:14 pm

dugRoute Climbed: blue glacier Date Climbed: 8/1974  Sucess!

nice climb
Posted Jul 25, 2001 8:11 pm

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