| Climbed with Sophia Danenberg from a camp on the glacier below Marcel Col. After flying to Pioneer Hut on December 27, we headed off towards the col at around 10AM. We started for the summit at 3AM, arriving on top at 6:15AM, finding near perfect conditions. The route was in very good form and the ice cliffs were easily passable via an easy snow ramp. We needed only about 4 pitches of belayed climbing on the knife edge below the summit, but otherwise simul-climbed or soloed the entire route. The descent was also quite straightforward since snow conditions were still firm. We were back at the tent at 10AM. After melting some snow, we headed down to Pioneer Hut and flew out the same afternoon. |
