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Elk Mountains > Capitol Peak > Climber's Log|
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| xskier77 | Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: July 18, 2004  | |
| Used to West Snowmass Creek approach and it proved to be a difficult approach. Our plan was to bivy on the summit of Capitol but the approach involved alot of bushwacking and off trail hiking that we were spent by the time we almost hit the summit of K2. We found a great bivy site that someone had built up with a nice rock wall around it and very smooth dirt ground. Day two climbed Capitol and was able to walk the entire knife edge. Fun climbing and the rock was surpisingly very solid. Although I did manage to knock loose a huge slab and thank god nobody was below me when the slab went. | |
| Posted Jul 19, 2004 1:17 am | ||
| ctruscot | Route Climbed: The Knife Edge Date Climbed: July 5 and 6, 2004 | |
| Went up Capitol Monday and Tuesday with a guide. That mountain is no walk in the park and I was glad to be with a guide because I sure would not want to run off that mountain nor find the route in a storm. I thought it was hard enough with someone who knew the route and with good weather. But that's me. See trip report | ||
| Posted Jul 11, 2004 8:10 pm | ||
| DaveC | Route Climbed: k2/knife edge Date Climbed: july 01 | |
| Probably the hardest 14er overall. Knife edge was overrated, but the summit block past it, and the K2 downclimb, were noteworthy. Long day, and well worth it. Tight but nice campsite near capitol lake. | |
| Posted May 20, 2004 9:15 pm | ||
| goat14er | Route Climbed: Northeast (Knife) Ridge Date Climbed: July 2002 | |
| What a cool mountain - everything from the approach to the peak from Capitol Creek to the campsites below the mountain near the lake to the climb itself was unforgettable! Definitely going to have to go back and do this one again! | |
| Posted May 12, 2004 3:41 pm | ||
| Ryan Kowalski | Route Climbed: Knife-edge Date Climbed: July 5, 2003 | |
| We decided to do this from the trailhead in a day. Wow, what a long day it was. Left at 3 AM, got back around 4 or 5 PM. A LOOOONNNNGGG day. Knife-edge isn't too bad, but the exposure is still amazing. One of the neatest natural features in CO. | |
| Posted Apr 19, 2004 5:07 pm | ||
| truchas | Route Climbed: K2 Ridge, then standard Date Climbed: September 1994 | |
| Nice climb with some bad weather on the summit. | |
| Posted Feb 11, 2004 5:09 pm | ||
| Nelson | Route Climbed: Knife-edge Date Climbed: August 31, 2003 | |
| What an awesome mountain! It was kind to us, and I reached the summit on my first visit. Hopefully not the last. | |
| Posted Sep 4, 2003 4:30 pm | ||
| RyanS | Route Climbed: Knife-edge Date Climbed: August 31, 2003 | |
| Fantastic! We climbed Mount Daly first and were treated to what has to be one of the finest views of Capitol around. We downclimbed Daly's south ridge to Daly Pass, and then took the standard route up to Capitol. From there we descended to the lowpoint on the Clark-Capitol ridge and dropped down into the Pierre Lakes Basin. Out to Snowmass Creek via the rough Bear Creek Trail. Total trip time: 19.25 hours! A trip report is available here | |
| Posted Sep 2, 2003 11:34 am | ||
| Luigi | Route Climbed: Capital Creek Date Climbed: August 24 2003 | |
| Great Mountain, two friends and I summited without a hitch, the knife-edge was awesome, but not that bad. There was only one move on the whole mountain that I thought was a little sketchy and that came after the knife edge.. Next time we'll try and do it in one day. Camped out at the lake on Saturday and summited on sunday | ||
| Posted Aug 27, 2003 2:45 pm | ||
| climbcolorado | Route Climbed: Knife Ridge Date Climbed: 8/10/03 | |
| Great day, great climb, one of the most difficult and exposed mountains in Colorado! Check out the photo of my climbing partner walking the knife edge! | |
| Posted Aug 12, 2003 12:35 am | ||
| Aaron Johnson | Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge-Knife Edge Date Climbed: July 20,2003 | |
| Climbed with Vern Garner and MA in 1994. Returned with Ellen Ritt in 2003. See the trip report on this page. What a great mountain, and after my 2nd ascent, it remains my 2nd favorite 14er. I was able to really enjoy the climb this time around, and I'm in better shape than before! The real bonus was climbing the mountain with my sweetheart, Ellen. She handled this climb (her 27th 14er, mind you) exceedingly well. This mountain is a classic, not for the uninitiated or inexperienced, but when your time comes, it's something you'll never forget. This mountain has the power to change your life-for better or for worse. If you're well prepared, you'll know what I mean when you're back at camp and you look up at the mountain and know what you have done. Definitely one of Colorado's finest fourteeners! Capitol is the "great one." | |
| Posted Jul 22, 2003 7:54 pm | ||
| mtnhiker13 | Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge-Knife Edge Date Climbed: July 20, 2003 | |
| Wow - what a mountain. I can't get it out of my head. An incredible climb and probably the pinnacle of my climbing season for this year and perhaps many years to come. This one would be tough to beat. Many thanks to my climbing partner and sweetheart Aaron Johnson for getting me up this mountain. I couldn't have done it without you! He was right when he said it is a mountain we should climb together. What a sense of accomplishment we shared. A weekend together we will remember always. We had incredible weather to assist us and a great plan. The wildflowers are wonderful in the area- take lots of film. I will post some pictures as soon as I can get them back and scanned in. | |
| Posted Jul 22, 2003 1:52 pm | ||
| big_g | Route Climbed: Knife Ridge Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2002 | |
| WOW! | |
| Posted Mar 3, 2003 4:27 pm | ||
| zzril | Route Climbed: NE Ridge Date Climbed: July 1992 | |
| One of my all time favorites. Beautiful views on a perfect afternoon. | |
| Posted Nov 22, 2002 12:25 pm | ||
| rmjwinters | Route Climbed: Knife Edge Date Climbed: August 10 | |
| Long day hike, great traverse on the ridge and beautiful views. See trip report for details. | |
| Posted Oct 6, 2002 6:50 pm | ||
| rcorby2 | Route Climbed: NE Ridge direct from Daly Pass Date Climbed: September 28, 2002 | |
| What an amazing approach hike! Climbing partner didn't want to climb so I climbed to Daly Pass by myself and linked up with another party of three. Took the NE ridge direct from Daly Pass. Week early season snow combined with non stop class 4 made movement slow. After 3.5 hours of movement we were just under K2, electricity crackling in the air and resulting thunder clap sent us down. As it turned out, the weather cleared up shortly after that. I'll post a TR in a bit and some video at an external site TBD. I think if we would have followed Roach's primary route we would have made it. | |
| Posted Oct 2, 2002 6:56 am | ||
| scotchhooligan | Route Climbed: NE ridge Date Climbed: Sept 2002 | |
| New snowfall added extra excitement. Approach to lake is one of the most beautiful I've ever experienced. Knife edge was fun after I got my friend to man up and do it. Followed ridgeline almost all the way up, which was exposed but not too bad. Rope and gear is dead weight on standard route; never really thought about bringing it anyway. | ||
| Posted Sep 28, 2002 7:20 pm | ||
| mtngeo | Route Climbed: northwest buttress Date Climbed: august 31, 2002 | |
| as kcrag posted, to the best of our recollection it was about 18 pitches. loose and rotten rock abounds, so wear a helmet. crux (5.9) comes at first pitch. a retreat would be near impossible beyond the first, maybe second pitch, so be prepared to commit. descend via the knife edge (standard) route. i would highly recommend this route to competent parties. regards, geo | ||
| Posted Sep 27, 2002 7:39 pm | ||
| kcrag | Route Climbed: NORTHWEST BUTTRESS Date Climbed: August 31, 2002 | |
| 18 pitches (crux is 5.9) and 21 hours. Needless to say, the climb took a little longer than we expected. Forced bivy at the top (2am) in order to descend via the knife ridge in daylight. What a beautiful thing to watch the sunrise at the summit of Capitol Peak. We were very fortunate to have had good weather that night (clear, but cold). VERY loose rock. As the 2nd, my helmet saved my head a few times. Be careful and climb safely! | |
| Posted Sep 19, 2002 12:22 pm | ||
| Gimp Man | Route Climbed: Knife Edge Date Climbed: July 20, 2002 | |
| Great climb! Hiked up to lake and camped for Day 1. Day 2 - 5am start to summit and then back down to car. Long day but beautiful climb and hike. One of my favorites in Colorado. Definetly go up and over K2 to get to the summit. | ||
| Posted Sep 12, 2002 11:02 am | ||
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