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El Diente Climber's Log
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noahs213North Buttress  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2009

Perfect Weather. With snow on this route it makes it class 4/5 with mixed climbing thrown in along with a little ice climbing. I found it a bit hairy with all that thrown in. Would recomend rope and technical gear if doing it in fall, winter, spring. Descended via the Killpacker Basin.
Posted Sep 28, 2009 10:50 pm

seanoNorth buttress / ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 21, 2009

Beautiful weather, but enough snow to make this really class 4.
Posted Sep 22, 2009 11:40 pm

cftbqNorth face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2009

Did the standard north face coulior route from Navajo Lake. Tediously loose, but had perfect weather. Awesomely small summit.
Posted Aug 28, 2009 3:38 pm

Brad SniderNorth Buttress  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2009

Great, solid, fun route up the North Buttress before traverse to Mount Wilson.
Posted Jul 31, 2009 11:06 pm

altitude14erRoute Climbed: North Slopes  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2009

Navajo Basin still has a considerable amount of snow up above tree line. As a result the climb became much tougher than it would have been during fair weather hiker 'tourist season'... me and my friend relished the extra challenge!
Posted Jun 27, 2009 1:38 am

byatesVia Navajo Lake  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 31, 2008

Steep icy snow, but we had Navajo Basin to our selves for 3 days.
Posted Dec 4, 2008 1:02 pm

BigRobKilpacker Basin  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2008

I went solo, which was fine until the upper portions. There was at least a foot of snow on the north slope where you have to circle around the summit block. Any later in the season be sure to take an AXE and PARTNER. I probably should have turned back.
Posted Sep 15, 2008 3:11 pm

Panthera unciaIndependence Day Climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2008

Climbed the snowy North Couloir from Navajo Lake and scrambled west to EL Diente's summit. Then, traversed east to Mount Wilson for a little more fun.
Posted Aug 27, 2008 2:33 pm

IngmanWest Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2008

From Navajo Lake, took West ridge, hit Mount Wilson via ridge.
Posted Aug 23, 2008 5:34 pm

spannring297 of 14  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2008

Seventh of 14 14ers in 11 days and also my first snow climb. Very loose and potentially dangerous mountain, but when combined with Mt. Wilson, it makes for a fun day.
Posted Aug 9, 2008 3:59 pm

Mots010North Slopes  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2008

Agree with Skasgaard, this is a tricky mountain. The snow climb up to the ridge was great, but when weather forced us to bail on the traverse to Mt Wilson, we were left descending the north face. Getting off this mountain is much tougher than getting up it.
Posted Jul 9, 2008 12:19 am

Kiefer ThomasNorth Slopes  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2008

This is a dangerous mountain!! Far worse then the Bells or Little Bear. We did a snow climb up the north couloir and took a North Face variation on the descent.
A member in our climbing party was quite literally 2-3 sec. away from being crushed to death by a mini-fridge sized piece of rock that came loose.
Approach this mountain with care. The exposure was wonderful and eye-opening!
Posted Jul 6, 2008 11:27 pm

MountainHikerCOKilpacker  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 6, 1998

This was my second climb of El Diente. We used the Kilpacker Basin approach.
Posted Feb 16, 2008 10:59 am

MountainHikerCOWith Mt Wilson  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 6, 1992

This was my first climb of El Diente. We approached from Silver Pick over Rock of Ages. We then did the traverse to Mount Wilson.
Posted Feb 16, 2008 10:58 am

tomlaurenEl Diente - Mt Wilson - Wilson Pk in a day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2007

From camp at Navajo Lake, climbed the North Slopes of El Diente, performed the traverse to Mt Wilson, then descended Mt Wilson's North Slopes to Wilson Peak's West Ridge with my friend Keith. No snow gear was required for the North Slopes route of El Diente; we avoided the snow.
Posted Feb 2, 2008 8:06 am

shanahan96second tooth pulling  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2007

second time up the tooth, this time via the annoying standard route. the approach is still lovely and upper kilpacker will forever remain bloody hell!

jamie
Posted Sep 9, 2007 9:48 pm

dr_gonzlightning!

the closest I have come to death by lightning. The rocks were popping and the air was buzzing. We scrambled down the west face not knowing how we would get down, but needing to get down asap. we took our time and made it eventually. long day doing all three there in the area.
Posted Sep 4, 2007 4:30 pm

chicagotransplantKilpacker w/ Traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2007

Climbed with Shanahan96, JamieNellis and ATTM. Long scree slog in upper Kilpacker but it wasn't too loose. After hearing nightmares from others on the ridge who had climbed the north slopes I am glad we went this way. Got a little lost on top and started climbing the Organ Pipes, quickly changed that and got back on route! Nice views to the west from the westernmost 14er in Colorado!
Posted Sep 4, 2007 11:30 am

HokieJimKilpacker...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2007

is the way to go! While still steep and loose it was way better than I anticipated after hearing horror stories from climber's on the North Slopes. Forget Navajo, go with Kilpacker
Posted Aug 16, 2007 2:42 am

ktiffany22From Kilpacker Basin  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2007

I have two 14er finisher friends who said they CRIED on only one 14er... and this one was it. I had also read some nasty trip reports about it. SO, needless to say, I was NERVOUS about this one (I almost backed out). HOWEVER, I have GOOD news- I LOVED it! We climbed this one from Kilpacker basin... not near as loose as I hear the Navajo basin trail is! After some very fun climbing, we had the summit to ourselves (for a bit), then began the long descent back to our jeep at the trailhead, and the near 7 hour drive back to the Springs!
Posted Aug 13, 2007 10:39 pm

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