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| littlefrantz | lovely in Nov  | |
| snow is super hard so ice axes were helpful! | |
| Posted Nov 8, 2009 3:46 pm | ||
| JHH60 | North Couloir Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2007 | |
| First alpine ice climb. Turned from snow into blue ice 1/3 of the way up. Fun climb! | |
| Posted Nov 2, 2009 11:21 pm | ||
| Roots | N. Couloir Conditions Update Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2009 | |
| My partner and I just climbed the North Couloir. It was a good time and we had it to ourselves. The bergshrund was still covered. Ice on most of the route with the exception of firm snow at the very bottom (below 'shrund), a section in the middle on the right side and at the top where the angle backs off. Have fun... | ||
| Posted Sep 23, 2009 7:58 pm | ||
| granjero | NW Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2009 | |
| Great first alpine solo. Fun easy moves with views of grandeur! | |
| Posted Sep 8, 2009 6:53 pm | ||
| granjero | North Couloirs Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2009 | |
| Climbed left and right north couloirs. Brought skis and snowboard (seriously both) to descend right couloir on snowboard (in ski boots, hilarious), left one on skis. Came back a week later with just snowboard, rode both left and right couloirs. Classic! | |
| Posted Sep 8, 2009 6:51 pm | ||
| cp0915 | NW Ridge (5.3) Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2009 | |
| A terrific day out with DB and Double-A. | |
| Posted Aug 23, 2009 4:06 pm | ||
| WML | North Couloir Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2009 | |
| Super fun route, nice scrambling at the top. Fun couloir beneath the Class 3-4 scrambling. | |
| Posted Jul 30, 2009 1:37 am | ||
| kovarpa | Did the middle couloir this time Date Climbed: May 23, 2009 | |
| good fun, as always. continued on to Conness. | |
| Posted May 26, 2009 4:52 pm | ||
| Rogers | North Couloir Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2008 | |
| Good ice and a great days - views were clear out past Half Dome to the west. | |
| Posted Dec 13, 2008 1:01 pm | ||
| Noondueler | Early bird Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2007 | |
| First time was July 2000. Second time I got up and down before noon with great views, clouds and nice lighting. | |
| Posted Nov 4, 2008 11:59 pm | ||
| tb00957 | NNW ridge Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2008 | |
| This is mostly class 3 with three impasse on it. Don't need gear, I used rock shoes for one. Totally fun. | ||
| Posted Oct 6, 2008 4:49 pm | ||
| Shirley Lam | NW Ridge... Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2008 | |
| Then kept on the ridge from North Peak to Conness. Fun ridge and great views! It was great to go light and do it car-to-car in a day. | |
| Posted Aug 26, 2008 4:47 pm | ||
| cbuelow | SE Chute Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2008 | |
| Hiked up solo from the dam. Took the SE chute up and came down the SW face. Lovely day exploring the turquoise lakes below the Conness Glacier. Couldn't have asked for better weather ... Btw, the notebook placed by rhyang in 2006 is almost full... | |
| Posted Aug 24, 2008 11:48 pm | ||
| Fredd C Dobbs | SW Face Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2008 | |
| Very nice day. I summited @ 1:30 pm- A gentleman named Greg Dephilipps was there earlier & signed in @ 10:00 am. Weather report said it would be "breezy"- That was quite an under-statement around the summit area. | |
| Posted Aug 19, 2008 10:10 pm | ||
| Fred Bagni | North Couloir Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2008 | |
| Climbed with my buddy Patrick from AZ. His first couloir. Ice was excellent. It looked like it was all neve from up to the bergshrund. But, could not have been more wrong. Patrick is now hooked on couloirs... Climbed it in 3.5 pitches. Simuled the passed the berg. | |
| Posted Aug 17, 2008 11:26 pm | ||
| Nefsek | Right Couloir Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2008 | |
| Second ice climb after Dana, ice was perfect, weather was perfect. Couldn't ask for anything better... | |
| Posted Jul 28, 2008 12:46 am | ||
| rhyang | Northwest Ridge (sort of ) Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2008 | |
| Hiked up to the glacier to check out the couloirs, took some pics, then traversed over and across suncupped snowfield to what I think was the 'second impasse' (see route page). Straightforward third class up to ridge. I didn't feel up to staying on the ridge itself (left leg is still weak and shaky), so I traversed right to something that felt more like third, then did the rest of the slog to the summit. Flawless day. From the summit saw some guys heading down the right couloir on skis. -- Route climbed: Left couloir Date climbed: 30-Sept-2006 Soloed left couloir on good neve, to about 45-ish degrees. Two sections in the upper part were melted out - these seemed about third class in current conditions. Slogged on sand up from left couloir exit to summit scramble and took the class 3 easy way up to the southwest face. On top by 9:15am. Amazingly, the bottom half of the right couloir still looked like neve (didn't see top half). Wanted to avoid getting caught in the weather coming in - it was gusty with clouds. Otherwise, a great day to be out. -- Route climbed: Right couloir Date climbed: 10-Sept-2006 Started from Saddlebag Lake around 5:40am, got up to glacier by 7:30, and started climbing by 8. Right couloir was completely neve - I was amazed that there was no ice at all visible. However, the bergschrund was open all the way across the couloir, about 10-15 feet I would guess. Seemed easiest on climber's left, so up I went. Maybe 75 degrees ? (looked steeper to the right) The only ice present was at the bottom of the schrund, so the rest was solid neve, making for excellent pick placements. I would guess that if / when the couloir becomes all ice this year that this schrund will be less of an obstacle (?) Once in the couloir conditions were excellent and laid-back neve. Possibly ice will form this year first in the runnel a bit left of center. Got to the notch about 9:15. Headed up the rock scramble from there, and did the 'direct finish'. I initially thought this was 4th class, but maybe it was low fifth (like there's a difference :) Spicy in ice-climbing boots ... got to top around 10:25. Saw Misha/Etsuko/Pavel's log entries, and added new notebook to register. Weather was simply impeccable and the views tremendous. Saw the third-class gully on the descent (oh well, next time :) Back to car by 12:15pm. -- Route Climbed: Right Couloir Date Climbed: 23-October-2005 Climbed with John. Arrived at the glacier around 8:30am, simuled up the first pitch (mostly neve with a few patches of ice poking through). Not much of a bergschrund this year, but what there is mostly on the left side of the couloir. Started pitching out shortly before 10 where the ice started. I led the first pitch, John led the second, and I led the last half pitch or so, belaying off a boulder from the top. The ice was hard and brittle. Last 10-20' was neve. We had the couloir to ourselves the whole time. Weather was pretty much perfect. Exited the couloir around 1:40. We thought about heading up the summit scramble, but by then John was more interested in getting a beer, and I figured some ice cream would top off the day pretty well. -- Also climbed right couloir two other times in October 2004 (mostly good blue ice) and August 2005 (partly still snow). | |
| Posted Jul 9, 2008 10:56 am | ||
| Zhenya77 | North Couloir Date Climbed: Oct 18, 2006 | |
| It was a perfect October day. from the Trailhead we proceeded quite fast to the bottom of the North couloir. Lettle roping exercise was quite short. The clib itself was no longer than 40 min. Nice practice before attempting anything more technically challenging | |
| Posted Mar 10, 2008 8:20 pm | ||
| forjan | Left Couloir Date Climbed: Dec 1, 2007 | |
| My friend Luis and I climbed the left couloir while Pavel and Misha were getting on the right couloir. It snowed lightly all day and it was butt cold: temperatures hovered anywhere from single digits to lower teens. However, the ice was pretty nice. We got a late start. Started the first pitch at 11:30am. We skipped the summit (short daylight, blowing snowing in your eyes and cold drove us out) as we topped out just before 3pm. ---------- Route Climbed: Left Couloir Date Climbed: September 16, 2006 Started from the Saddlebag Lake parking lot at 6:30am. Solo the left couloir in 45 minutes. Summited North Peak at 10:15am. Stayed half an hour there before going on to the north ridge of Conness. Descended the standard east ridge of Conness via Alpine Lake. Back at Saddlebag Lake at 3:55pm (~ 9.5 hrs roundtrip). ---------- Route Climbed: NE Right couloir Date Climbed: September 5, 2005 Climbed with awagher. We took my 60m rope, 6 ice crews, set of nuts and various slings and cordolettes. Conditions (as of 9/5/05) were as follows: Pitch 1 was all easy neve. Then, the remaining 3 pitches were all surprisingly hard water ice. The last 40 feet (before you top out) on pitch 4 was neve again. The 'shrund this year is lower down on the left side of the couloir. It hasn't opened up across yet. Get on the couloir on the right side. Took us about 5 hours to climb the 4 pitches. Because we had a late start (didn't get on the couloir 'til after 10am) and lack of sleep, we decided to skip the summit. Now, the left couloir of North Peak looked like it was all neve, however, 2/3 of the way up it has a 60 foot section of rock all across (must climb rock 60 feet and then get on neve again). ---------- Route Climbed: NE Right couloir Date Climbed: October 4, 2003 A mini-epic day! Climbed the right NE couloir with Alex. We started hiking from Saddlebag Lake at 5:05am. We reached the bottom of the snow/ice patch around 8:40am or so. This is where we geared up. Unfortunately on this Saturday there were several parties climbing the right Northeast Couloir ahead of us, so we had to wait and take our turn. We actually started climbing at 9:45am despite the ice chunks coming down from the climbers above. I led all the 4 pitches as Alex had trouble with his right foot boot/crampon combination. I got hit by a softball-size ice chunk on my right rib cage that took my breath away for several seconds at the top of the 1st pitch. After that, we still dodged several ice chunks but fortunately we didn't get hit anymore. We mostly climbed the right side of the couloir. Except for a small section on the middle of the 2nd pitch, most of the ice was brittle as a result of the previous climbing parties chopping tons of ice down the couloir. It was a bowling alley with Alex and I being the bowling pins. I finally did reach the notch at the very late hour of 3:50pm. Another 40 minutes would pass before Alex topped out. We took a half-hour break at the notch eating, drinking and putting away tools and crampons. We started climbing the class 3 rock chute to the summit at 5:05pm. I reached the summit 25 minutes later at 5:30pm. I did my usual class 4 variation just directly below the summit by climbing the class 4 20-foot section chimney there on climber's right. We got down to the notch, picked up our gear and descended the SE chute down the Conness Lake area. It was almost 8:30pm by the time we got back to the car at Saddlebag Lake: 15.5 hours roundtrip car-to-car = a mini-epic day! ---------- Route Climbed: NE Right couloir Date Climbed: October 13, 2002 We climbed the right NE couloir of North Peak. Camped close to Cascade Lake Saturday evening. We climbed unroped 'til the bergschrund. At this point we roped up, and my partner (Mark O'Brian) led the pitches. We climbed the couloir on the left side. The right side had about 3" of snow on it and was not totally consolidated. My partner used 2 ice tools, and I used 2 ice tools, too. Placed a combination of rock pro (left side of couloir) at most belay spots and ice screws (and additional rock pro) for pitch protection. We used a 60m rope and it worked out to 4 pitches for us. We encountered 2 other climbing parties; each with a party of 3. One party of 3 climbed roped up with fixed belays (like us) and the other party of 3 climbed unroped each soloing (the unroped party: each of them had 2 ice tools and did a combination of front-pointing as well as pied troisieme). We reached the notch (elev ~ 11,960') around 1:00pm. We unroped, took crampons off and headed for the summit through the class 3 rock chute. I did a small class 4 variation by staying to climber's right 20 feet below the summit. Reached the summit at 1:25pm. Descended part of the SE chute and cut across back to Cascade Lake to pick up our camp and hiked out to Saddlebag Lake parking area. | |
| Posted Jan 20, 2008 12:26 pm | ||
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Sierra Nevada
