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| Buckaroo | East Route (Hourglass)  Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2007 | |
| Nice route for a solo. When all the snow is gone the hourglass pitch is 5.6 and about 40 ft. Recommend to do this route first before trying harder stuff on these peaks because this is the normal descent but it's hard to find from the top especially when there's the all too frequent white out. Many top climbers have epic'd because of this descent. | |
| Posted Sep 3, 2009 5:36 pm | ||
| Buckaroo | Index Traverse Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2009 | |
| Solo of the Index traverse from N to S. Finally tagged this difficult climb after many tries. Took rock shoes and Guide 10's. One day to the tarns at the summit of Main, then 1/2 day back to the car. 20 pound pack but no sleeping bag so sort of a force bivy but it was okay. Partly cloudy but it had been shrouded in clouds for a couple of days so all the vegetation was wet on the N faces, but the rock was dry. Pretty tricky route finding the whole way and very exposed. Probably not one single place with enough room for a 2 person tent and only a few bivy spots. | |
| Posted Sep 3, 2009 5:33 pm | ||
| Buckaroo | N Face of N Index Peak Date Climbed: Jul 26, 1999 | |
| Solo of this classic climb. It was very dry which is good because the rock is slippery when wet. Came back down the same way about 1/2 raps and 1/2 downclimb. The sketchiest climbing felt like the N face bowl even though that wasn't the hardest. Some of the rap anchors were manky so downclimbed past them. | |
| Posted Sep 3, 2009 5:28 pm | ||
| Buckaroo | West Route via Anderson Creek Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2002 | |
| Mostly slide alder up Anderson Creek then some snow gulley and faces at the pass and on Main Peak's upper slopes. Epic on the descent, couldn't find the start of the gulley then got off route where you have to gain the lower descent ridge above the lake. It's a long way from the top of the Anderson Creek drainage to the summit. Lots of false summits along the way. | |
| Posted Sep 3, 2009 5:25 pm | ||
| ericnoel | West Ridge Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2009 | |
| Kind of a dull approach but once we crossed over the ridge it is a very pretty area. We stuck in the trees on the ridge more than we had to just because the snow, while not steep, has somewhat poor runout. Spectacular summit views. | |
| Posted Jun 28, 2009 12:46 pm | ||
| BKW | West Ridge Date Climbed: May 23, 2009 | |
| We made this attempt in May trying to capitalize on the snow covered brush. We followed the route described by Ineher. The plan worked great until the the described permant snowfield just below the summit was in no condition to cross due to steep loose snow and avalanche conditions. | |
| Posted May 25, 2009 12:44 am | ||
| RickandRhonda | Gnarly Date Climbed: May 16, 2009 | |
| I climbed the bulk of this route on Saturday. After breaking knee and hip deep trail for hours, I was finally turned around by the increasing avalanche danger. The north faces of Index were sliding all morning and were increasing in size. Next time I try this peak, I think I'll approach from Persis. | |
| Posted May 17, 2009 2:22 pm | ||
| DBaker | Hourglass Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2007 | |
| Hourglass gully route. Mostly melted-out; class 4 stuff, two or three of the pitches might have been low 5th class. Brought set of nuts and a couple big tricams, skinny rope (9.2mm). Ample natural protection. | |
| Posted Sep 17, 2007 6:07 pm | ||
| lneher | West Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2007 | |
| We basically followed Smoot's "Climbing Washington's Mountains" route. However, we worked toward the north side of the West ridge and traversed the permanent snow field to avoid the 3rd class scrambling that Smoot mentions, making this a straight forward 2nd class route. | |
| Posted Aug 23, 2007 1:56 am | ||
| setrent | North Ridge North Peak Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2007 | |
| A climb with much history. Some route finding and brush wacking lead to an airy exposed finish. | ||
| Posted Jul 9, 2007 1:54 am | ||
| Franko1946 | Route Climbed: Snow gully up east side Date Climbed: May 1978 | |
| Huge cornice on top. | ||
| Posted Oct 2, 2005 10:50 pm | ||
| Andy Dewey | Route Climbed: Persis - Index Traverse Date Climbed: August 6, 2005 | |
| Had a few route-finding difficulties on the way there, but still managed to make it. Long ways to go! Camped at the tarns along the ridge; awesome spot! | |
| Posted Aug 8, 2005 4:39 am | ||
| ren | Route Climbed: Persis to Index Date Climbed: Aug. 6, '05 | |
| It was a long day. Really liked the tarns along the way. Just a bit of route finding and veg belays. The gully taking you through to Anderson Pass is obvious. That was a question I first had. No problem. | |
| Posted Aug 7, 2005 9:45 pm | ||
| Bronco | Route Climbed: West Route (Mt. Persis - Mt. Index Traverse) Date Climbed: October 20, 2001 | |
| Climbed the West route along the ridge from Mt. Persis to the summit of Mt. Index. Descended the East Route to Lake Serene which required 1 short rappel and a lot of "brush belays" to descend from the ridge to the boulder field above the Lake. | ||
| Posted Oct 30, 2001 9:40 am | ||
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