| Welcome to SP! - Sign-In | Register | ||
| | |
| MbPost.com -- It's SP for Mountain Biking! | ||
Bernese Alps > Aletschhorn > Climber's Log|
|
|
| andre hangaard | Hard but beautiful  Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2009 | |
| Together with SP'er Sputnik we climbed the Aletschhorn via the Mittelaletschbiwak. We climbed from Fiescheralp, crossed the Aletschglacier and spent the night in the simple biwak. After an early start next morning we went up to the saddle, Aletschjoch and climbed via the normal route. On our return the conditions at the saddle were rather tricky due to the snowconditions. The second night also spent in the biwak. A beautiful but though climb in a remote place of the Aletsch region during a weekend with outstanding weather. Warm and sunny! | |
| Posted Aug 28, 2009 9:12 am | ||
| JanVanGenk | From Mittelaletschbiwak Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2009 | |
| Climbed with a friend in not so perfect conditions. The weather was rather unstable and closed totally in when we returned from the summit. Knee-high powder snow on some places. Spuring was rather tiring. I dropped my walking pole from the summit and had to recover it afterwards by traversing a slope with fresh snow up to my hips. Going back to the Aletschjoch via a narrow ridge was very tricky as snow had become wet by then, and the spur we had made was completely melt off. My friend slipped away on that ridge twice, luckily we were using a short rope technique...it took lots of concentration to reach the Aletschjoch. By then it was a total white-out and we had some route finding problems. At some point my friend fell into a crevasse up to his waist and dropped his ice axe into that crevasse. Then we tried to recover his axe (it was laying on a snow bridge a few meters down in the crevasse) but to no avail. We were rather waisted when we reached the bivouac hut. What a day! | |
| Posted Jul 14, 2009 12:40 pm | ||
| Flachlandtiroler | SW-ridge (normal route from Oberaletsch hut) Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2008 | |
| Long but rewarding ascent to the Oberaletsch hut, which still lies far away from the peak. Most of the upper SW ridge still was under good snow so few climbing or ice passages. Warmth + no wind on the summit, stayed >1h on top. Back at the hut on 4pm and stayed there for another night due to incoming thunderstorm. Saw only two other teams that day; next day no one tackled the Aletschhorn from the hut unless weather was fine. | ||
| Posted Sep 4, 2008 7:03 am | ||
| mulidivarese | NW ridge: what a mountain Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2008 | |
| From Bettmeralp we crossed the glatcher at Roti Chumma. And we reached the Mittelaletschbiwak in a snow storm (5:30). Next mornin with a perfect blue ski we reached the top (4:40m, too much snow very soft). Then the incredible long way back. Perfect day. A pieace of hymalaya Valerio, Marco, Jolanda | |
| Posted Aug 25, 2008 5:30 am | ||
| Cyrill | Aletschhorn 4195m Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2006 | |
| Great Tour to Aletschhorn 4195m. my picture are here: Link to Aletschhorn 4195m | |
| Posted Nov 8, 2007 5:06 am | ||
| Trevor Card | From Oberaletschhutte Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2006 | |
| As my first attempt at a 4000M peak this one beat me! It's a hard slog at PD+. :-( | |
| Posted Jul 17, 2006 12:39 pm | ||
| garaventa | Route Climbed: from Oberaletschhütte to summit and return Date Climbed: 20 August 2005 | |
| normal route 6,5 hours to summit | |
| Posted Nov 18, 2005 3:21 am | ||
| bbirtle | Route Climbed: Bettmeralp -> Mittelaletschiwak -> Summit Date Climbed: Apr 22, 2005 | |
| VERY long approach done in the heat of midday left us both exhausted. Early morning wake up and my partner seriously lagging, ditched her, continued alone. Took turns making tracks through about 60cm fresh on the ardurous ridge on the way to the big plataeu below the false summit. Wind almost blowing us off the whole way, and very cold. Got to the steep bit below the false summit -- definitely the crux point of the climb -- to find a lot of crevass danger and one really nasty bergshurd. Continue cautiously but quickly fall into one! Fortunately a small one -- just about 50cm wide, but @#$ing scary! So waited a long time for another guy who had ditched his partner only to find he left the rope behind as did I! So we both continued stupidly, but at least not alone. Difficult to cross the bergshurnd with two different routes possible -- we pick the right one. Bad move -- very hard verglass that gets steeping. VERY touch-and-go especially on the decent -- left route said to be much easier. From there, easy sailing to the summit (sailing among hidden crevasses though). Don't try this at home, kids. | |
| Posted Jul 7, 2005 12:31 pm | ||
| erik_ravenstijn | Route Climbed: aletschgletscher-mittelaletschbivak Date Climbed: 29 july 2004 Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2004 | |
| What an experience! This is a really great mountain to climb, with a great satisfaction when you have done it. Did the normal way (east ridge/slopes) from the Mittel-Aletsch bivouac. Take care for possible ice/stone avalanches above the Mittel-Aletsch bivouac. When we were there, huge blocks of ice had come down! Some pics at my site: www.climbingtours.net | |
| Posted Mar 12, 2005 4:18 pm | ||
| benhil | Route Climbed: North east Date Climbed: 15 august 1996 | |
| Nice mountain in not so nice weather | |
| Posted Aug 15, 2003 3:52 am | ||
| Mathias Zehring | Route Climbed: ski route from Mittelaletschbiwak Date Climbed: May 28th 2003 | |
| superb trip into an almost lonely corner of the Bernese Alps. It took us 3 days: one to go to the Mittelaletsch bivuoac hut from Bettmeralp (very long time to carry the ski, no snow on the Aletsch glacier), the second for climbing the summit (as described by alpenkalb's route, very exhausting as some parts are too narrow or too steep to go with ski, so we had to carry them again) and the third for returning into civilization. | |
| Posted May 31, 2003 1:25 am | ||
| schadik | Route Climbed: NW ridge via the Dreikhorn and down the SW face. Date Climbed: Spring 2000 | |
| Great tour although the skies spend most of the day on your pack. | |
| Posted Nov 23, 2001 1:58 am | ||
| UlrichPrinz | Route Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: June 2001 | |
| Great conditions. Wall was much easier than described in the guidebook. Lots of snow covered most creveasses. Started at about 2 in the morning from Hollandia Hut, and after the top we returned on the ridge to the Sattelhorn back to the hut. Very nice round trip ! | |
| Posted Oct 30, 2001 4:13 am | ||
|
