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Aiguille d'Argentière Climber's Log
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Viewing: 1-19 of 19

Jeroen VelsNorth Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2008

Climbed the north face together with Bas, Wouter and Jurgen. We made a small sidestep to the rocks on the right side, because the ice on the face was interesting thin.
Descended via the Glacier du Milieu.
Posted Aug 23, 2008 11:02 am

Bas VisscherNorth Face classic route  Sucess!

Climbed the north face. Great ambiance in the route, but quite severe conditions. We belayed the biggest part and descended along the normal route.
Posted Aug 23, 2008 10:59 am

CrazyBananaGlacier du Milieu  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2007

Eventful climb for me, as I dropped my DSLR camera just 100m below the summit. It got out of the camera bag, which fell into the bergschrund, while the camera kept rolling down. I managed to recover everything with the help of some fellow climbers, the camera is still working, but I had to replace the lens. Apart from the bad mood after this event, it was a beautiful climb.
Posted Mar 26, 2008 1:27 pm

Joerg MarretschGlacier du Milieu  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2006

Good ice conditions on Glacier du Milieu and a good rest on the summit.
Posted Jul 9, 2006 10:46 am

KoenRoute Climbed: SE-ridge (Flêche Rousse-ridge) Date Climbed: july 17 2005  Sucess!

Ascentroute: SE-ridge from Argentière hut, descent: normalroute through Milieu glacier.



As this was part of my basic alpine course, with 4 trainees, it took us quite a while to summit (12hrs). Came back down in 3hrs. Conditions were too warm to be good, rock on the ridge was loose and rotten. Still an exciting and challenging climb for a first. Views from the top were excellent as the skies were clear all day.
Posted Jan 19, 2006 7:46 am

charlesRoute Climbed: Soutwest flank Date Climbed: jULY 1985  Sucess!

enjoyed it.
Posted Nov 28, 2005 8:52 am

Thomas GurviezRoute Climbed: normal route : glacier du milieu Date Climbed: 23 march 2003  Sucess!

Perfect slopes for skiing, maybe too crowdy
Posted Feb 7, 2005 4:42 am

Stuart BuchananRoute Climbed: Y Couloir Date Climbed: 15 June 2004  Sucess!

Lovely route on perfect neve. Direct start was trivial. Wasn't aclimatized properly, so completely knackered by the time we summitted. Still managed to beat guidebook time by an hour.
Posted Jul 9, 2004 11:06 am

Dan BaileyRoute Climbed: normal Date Climbed: summer 1998  Sucess!

lovely peak
Posted Feb 10, 2004 11:46 am

Tom FralichRoute Climbed: Y Couloir Date Climbed: March 17, 2003  Sucess!

Climbed the right branch of the Y with Juan Valderrama as a simul-solo. We reached the summit in 4.5 hrs from the hut and descended the Milieu Glacier in 2.5 hrs. As he says, the descent is a pain after the snow has softened. We planned to start earlier, but overslept at the hut.
Posted Mar 25, 2003 10:55 am

El Tigre ValderramaRoute Climbed: Y Colouir, descent via Meliu Glacier Date Climbed: March 17 2003  Sucess!

Nice route, took the right arm of the Y. Done with Thomas Fralich in simul solo. The climb was done in winter but the weather was hot. The route had many steps on the snow from skiers (ramdome ski) so it was a piece of cake to climb the gully. The summit cornise is enormous and the Melieu Glacier gets very 'soft' after noon, so descent is delicate.



Great route after all.
Posted Mar 24, 2003 9:32 am

ProbemeisterRoute Climbed: Y couloir Date Climbed: 12 July 2001  Sucess!
good conditions, top to ourselves, tres bon!
Posted Jan 21, 2003 7:10 am

tomclimbRoute Climbed: Y Couloir Date Climbed: 27 july 2001  Sucess!
A nice climb in perfect conditions!
Posted Dec 29, 2002 2:57 am

kullabergRoute Climbed: glacier de milieu Date Climbed: march1988  Sucess!

ski ascent, one day from chamonix via grand montets ski area. fine tour, totally doable on a long spring day. steep headwall, can be descended with difficulty clear from summit on skis. non technical, one tool, crampons if not skiing.
Posted Nov 27, 2002 8:53 pm

Chamonix ManRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: August 2000  Sucess!

Stayed the night in the Argentiere hut which is great. Good early start in the morning and up the normal route. My first climb of the season and a good one to acclimatise before attempting the higher mountains around Chamonix. No difficulties and fairly safe. I took this photo a year later when I went back to ski.
Posted Nov 4, 2002 2:39 pm

FarmerRoute Climbed: Normal route Glacier Milieu Date Climbed: juli 98  Sucess!

From our bivac on the Argentiere glacier it was difficult finding a route though the enoooooooooormus amount of crevasses on the glacier. After a few jumps where C.Lewis would have been proud off, it was no probleme climbing 250 hm 40' firn to the summit.

Very nice route, but there are much better routes on this mountain (Messnerroute )



Posted Oct 10, 2002 12:44 pm

Andy KennedyRoute Climbed: Glacier du Milieu Date Climbed: 19th July 2002  Sucess!

My highest Alp to date! Spent a splendid night in a 5 star bivvy under a boulder on the moraines before setting out to climb the mountain at a very unsociable 1am. Navigation difficulties resulted in us crossing the worst crevasses ive ever seen and even resulted in us having to climb down into a particulaly large one, cross a snow bridge that promptly collapsed on me, and then ascend the opposite wall with just one axe...terrific fun!



The rest of the climb was less eventfull but there was a great view from the summit all the way across to the Matterhorn in Switzerland. We had the summit to ourselves (rare in the Alps) as we were the first ones up and were happy to see 50 climbers moving up the glacier in a procession all huffing and puffing to the top. Our hard work was done and we bounded down the mountain in good spirits after an easy but rewarding climb.



But what about that slog up to the Grand Monets...its just hell isnt it?
Posted Aug 16, 2002 12:47 pm

Rahel Maria LiuRoute Climbed: Plan: Northface (ascent), Glacier du Mileu (descent by ski) Date Climbed: March 2001

How silly that we went along the foot of the Northface of the Aiguille Verte at avalanche grade 4!! .... So instead of climbing the Couloir Couturier and going down through the Whymper Couloir (planned partly with ski), we looked at Aiguille d'Argentière - and finally decided to go to the end of the glacier d'Argentiere and to try our luck overthere ....



The third day, I finally gave it up to jump about around in the fog and snowstorm although Ulli and Günter still continued trying to become killed by avalanches, icefall and the coldness ;o). So I went down alone by ski to Argentière - and got nearly killed as well by almost having fallen in a big crevasse which I did not saw because of the fog :o( .... Having reached Argentière finally, I recognized that the battery of my handy was totally empty (because of the extreme coldness) .... so I would probably not have gotten any help if I had fallen into that crevasse :o(, although I still had a very loud pea-whistle with me... :o).

Posted Mar 21, 2002 6:49 pm

schadikRoute Climbed: Climbed,Glacier du Milieu;Descended, Barbet Couloir. Date Climbed: Feb,1999.  Sucess!

Another memorable day in the mountains. We did it in a day from the Gand Montet.
Posted Nov 26, 2001 11:53 pm

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