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| mvs | Route Climbed: North Face  Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2009 | |
| Dan P. and I climbed the North Face in a long but rewarding day. We had whiteout conditions on the summit, unfortunately, and some excitement using map and compass to find our way north on the normal route. | |
| Posted Jun 2, 2009 4:16 am | ||
| Lubos | Normal route Date Climbed: Apr 25, 1985 | |
| one of my first, just great alpinism. | |
| Posted Mar 10, 2009 11:31 pm | ||
| Joerg Marretsch | Hintergrat ridge - summit - Normal route Date Climbed: Sep 28, 2008 | |
| Just a perfect day at the end of summer 2008. Best conditions and not too many people. | |
| Posted Sep 29, 2008 3:22 pm | ||
| Tomas Kristofory | 204th anniversary Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2008 | |
| We ascended Ortler via normal route with the base at Tabarettahuette with the club Euthanasia (www.euthanasia.cz). We ascended it on the same day, as was the 204th anniversary of the first ascend on Ortler. We had cloud inversion and saw brocken spectre of ours at Tschirfeck part. I just came, happy to be back alive. Snow made the ridge very tricky and a one guy in our group could have paid with his life for it. I'm too tired to write more or to post photos. You will have to wait some days/hours to see them. | |
| Posted Sep 28, 2008 6:28 pm | ||
| hupfi | Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2008 | |
| Climbed the Ortler from Sulden with a nightstop at the payer hut in 2 days. nice weather and a beatiful trip with good friends. more at http://www.martinhupfauf.com/wordpress/?p=763 (sorry, only in german) and more pictures at http://www.martinhupfauf.com/fotoalbum/2008/2008-08-02%20Hochtour%20Ortler/index.html | ||
| Posted Aug 17, 2008 4:00 pm | ||
| julesblaidd | Through Tabaretta ridge Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2008 | |
| It was a beautiful trip to the Ortler's summit. The weather was fantastic we were lucky. | |
| Posted Jul 21, 2008 1:56 am | ||
| andrea.it | Normal Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2007 | |
| Normal route from Payer hutte. 3.30 hours. | |
| Posted Jun 30, 2008 11:47 am | ||
| Modi | Normal Route Date Climbed: Jul 22, 1984 | |
| Climbed with Giamba,Augusto Andrea e Simonetta from Payer hut | |
| Posted Mar 2, 2008 7:22 am | ||
| archiloco | Route climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: Aug 4, 1988 | |
| From refuge Tabaretta to the summit. A very crowded route, but a great beautyful mountain. | |
| Posted Nov 10, 2007 3:35 pm | ||
| reinhard2 | Traverse Hintergrat - Payer hut Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2003 | |
| Very impressive but long trip. "Bianco ridge" in upper part had almost vanished. However, glacier descent astonishingly ok albeit non-freezing temperatures at 4000m 24h per day, and blank glacier with thick waterfalls close to the track. | |
| Posted Oct 17, 2007 2:53 pm | ||
| morceaux | Ortler - me 1:0 Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2007 | |
| Yet another defeat... I "guided" two beginners with whom I first met on a glacier-travel course, and my best meteo-friend also came along. The weather was supposed to be fine, so we started from Sulden, and slept in Payerhütte. In the morning we got up late, started late, after everybody, and progressed very slowly on the technical parts of the ridge, because the two guys were inexperienced in free climbing. I didn't use the rope because the lack of anchor points and intermediate belays, we had no rock climbing equipment. The snow was melted already when we reached the glacier. All parties coming down the mountain told us its too late! After that, my friend fell into a crevasse, but it was no big, and on the glacier we were roped up, so there was no problem, he climbed out quickly. Some 250 meters below the summit the two guys stopped and said they won't go any further, the storm is coming, it's late, time to turn around. Meteo guy sayed go ahead, there will be no problem! By this time big clouds were gathering around the summit. We could not persuade the two guys, so we turned around. When we arrived to the most exposed part of the ridge, I belayed everybody down to a fixed ring above a small but difficult step, and tied the rope in. Then wind came and rain and hail began to fall, and my ixe axe began to sound on my backpack. I was getting nervous. Told everybody to hurry up. And then the sky sounded and I felt ourselves in a big piece of shit. I said it can't be... We can't suck a big storm here on the ridge... Meteo-guy said: keep calm, it will go away! We quickly continued descending, and indeed, the storm went away, stopped raining so finally we got down to Payerhütte with no problem. The two guys left their ice axes on the top of the chain-assured part because they were so scared of lightning. Anyway, the axes were made of aluminium, and they were not sounding... Next time... via Hintergrat, or maybe Nordwand. | |
| Posted Oct 10, 2007 3:47 am | ||
| Sebastian Hamm | Route Climbed: Payer-Hut Date Climbed: 13th September 2005 | |
| Great day with clouds, sunshine and perfect conditions. | |
| Posted Dec 19, 2005 3:18 pm | ||
| albertofanga | Route Climbed: normal route from Payer hut Date Climbed: August 1999 | |
| Reaching the Payer hut was very tough: it rained all the time and two lightnings were very close to us: not a nice experience! The day after a sunny day and a very good climbing to the summit. | |
| Posted Nov 6, 2005 8:43 am | ||
| Tomasz Jazwinski | Route Climbed: normal, from Payerhütte Date Climbed: July 16th, 2004 | |
| Three persons (two climbers and guide from Alpinschule Sulden) in the middle of July. We were one of the first teams in a fresh snow, after about 10 days of bad weather. Start at 5.00 from the Payerhütte, on the summit at about 9.00 (phantasctic view), back in the hut atfer 12.00. Later individual descent to Sulden. During the descent from the hut a rain (higher snow again). | |
| Posted Oct 24, 2005 5:25 pm | ||
| dedo | Route Climbed: Hintergrat Date Climbed: 27th August 2005 | |
| We were the only guests in the Hintergrat hut and also on the Hintergrat. Started at 5:00. Good frozen snow, a good track, cold and windy, some sun, some clouds. Made it to the top at 9:30, everybody else coming 5 minutes afterwards from the Payer hut, but no crowds. We crossed the summit and reached the Hintergrat hut over Payer hut, Tabaretta hut at 17:00. No hurry. Some 15 people went up the Hintergrat the next day in rain. | |
| Posted Sep 20, 2005 4:52 am | ||
| John Climber | Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: July 2002 | |
| Guided and within a alpine course from the Dutch Alpine Club a goup of 4 persons and a guide reached the summit on a clear day at top speed. Everything went without inccidents. | |
| Posted Aug 23, 2005 4:35 pm | ||
| Franz77 | Route Climbed: Hintergrat - Tabaretta Date Climbed: 21 August 2004 | |
| Two fantastic days with Carla, il Catena and Paglia. From Solden to Hintergrathutte. From the refuge to the top in perfect condition and down to Solden crossing Tabaretta ridge and Payerhutte. Just a problem: too much inexpert people descending!!! | |
| Posted Apr 1, 2005 1:21 am | ||
| JanVanGenk | Route Climbed: Hintergrat Date Climbed: August 1, 2004 | |
| Camped the night before in my car on a parking of a ski-lift up to Schaubachhütte. Next day took a cable-car up and walked (scrambled) over a glacier and moraine fields (no path) to the Hintergrat Hut. Had no reservation for the hut, but luckily they had some places free. In the evening discovered leak in my Camelbak water reservoir. Started next day (Sunday) at 4 am at the Hintergrat Hut. Not so many folks going up with the first wave (based on stories I've heard about the peak season I expected hords of climbers). The weather was nice, clear sky, good climbing conditions except of stonefall in lower sections. I was climbing solo, though had some equipment for back-roping myself if necessary. I really enjoyed the climb (regardless of the leaking Camelbak and resulting wet lower back), not too difficult, great views all around. On the summit at 9 am after 5 hours of climbing including a little bit of queueing in the difficult sections. Stayed some 50 minutes on the top. Ate, and drank the last drop of water (damned leak). Descended via "normal route" (Tabaretta ridge), it was not so trivial walking-down as I expected. There was one section after a bivouac hut where the way down from the rocks to an icefield was not obvious to find, and one had to put on crampons while still on rocky section, then climb down with the crampons a little bit, and then descend some 10 meters on pure ice. After a replenishing glass of Radler in Payer Hut it was still a long way down to the parking in Solda valley. | |
| Posted Nov 24, 2004 8:01 am | ||
| Farmer | Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: juli 1996 | |
| With a course we climbed the normal route, there are better routes on this mountain... | |
| Posted Aug 2, 2004 6:30 am | ||
| Uli | Route Climbed: Hintergrat Date Climbed: August 24, 2003 | |
| The climbing conditions were good - dry & ice free rocks. Only one section with snow/ice you need crampons for is left. After 10 hours we reached the safe harbour "Payerhut". Don't underestimate the descent via the normal route ! Of course one of my climbing partners was Martin (see next entry). | |
| Posted Aug 27, 2003 9:26 am | ||
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