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Dufourspitze Climber's Log
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project360Best climb so far...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2009

Perfect night, great climb, I love the mountains
Posted Oct 14, 2009 11:17 pm

boriskrielenRoute climbed: westridge solo  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 5, 2009

Climbed the normal route solo a few days ago. Weather started nice. When reaching the summitridge clouds came in with a strong wind,makning the final part quite exciting. Descending in a complete whiteout was also time consuming. Especially cause most snowbridges had by now disappeared. Plan was at first tomake a double with Nordend, but unfortunately the weather had other plans. Will be back one day for Nordend. :-)
Posted Oct 8, 2009 8:30 am

sokolxxxNormal from Schweiz  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2008

Alone... nice
Posted Sep 16, 2009 5:33 pm

mooliczekNormal Route from MRH  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2009

We had an incredible luck with only one day of a good weather. Started at 3:30 AM from a bivy at Untere Plattje, we reached the summit 7 hours later. Great snow conditions at start, got bit nasty later on, in the afternoon. The summit ridge was mid-covered with snow, some tough ice found also there. We got back to our bivy at 4 PM. Very satisfied!

Trip report (in Polish) and some pictures from our climb - see here
Posted Aug 27, 2009 11:28 am

philoPolish day on Dufourspitze  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2009

We climbed Dufourspitze via normal route from our tents puttend on 3300 m (above Monte Rosa Hutte). It was a polish day on that mountain becasuse all 4 teams that climbed it via normal route were polish.
Posted Aug 22, 2009 3:57 pm

hernbergOn the summit at sunrise  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2009

Normal route from our camp above the monte rosa hut
Posted Aug 22, 2009 4:01 am

cackalackyclimberNormal Route
Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2008

Made it to the beginning of the rock above the icy slope around 4500m and had to turn back due to temps of -13C & winds around 100k/hr. We had to turn back the day before much lower down also due to poor conditions. 50cm of fresh snow on the glaciers also made the going a bit more difficult. Despite tough conditions and missing the summit, it was a tremendous climb with unparalleled scenery!
Posted Aug 10, 2009 1:53 pm

JanVanGenkNormal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2009

Climbed from a bivouac site a few hundred meters above the Monte Rosa hut. Cold, windy (especially the summit ridge), lots of snow on the summit ridge. Some tricky solo climbing on the ridge. Great views! The weather closed in as soon as I climbed down from the summit.
Posted Jul 14, 2009 12:15 pm

bergnasenbaerfinale  Sucess!

A Great final peak for my tour on monterosa. Look for it at: www.bergsuechtig.de
Posted Sep 20, 2008 1:45 pm

bc44caesarNormal Route, Traverse to Margherita Hut  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2008

Started at the Margherita Hut at 3am, reached the summit around 10:30am. The traverse looked dicey, with a lot of snow-covered rock and unprotected moves, which, while easy, were often quite exposed. Long day, but rather exciting.
Posted Jul 9, 2008 4:54 am

RiccardoFrom Capanna Margherita  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2004

A wonderful day :-)
Panoramic views from Dufour
Posted Feb 11, 2008 4:14 am

CyrillDufourspitze 4634m  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 23, 2005

Beautiful Skitour to Dufourspitze 4634m.

my picture are here: Link to Dufourspitze 4634m
Posted Nov 9, 2007 3:09 am

gharleyNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2007
The ascent was great. 14 of 18 climbers summitted that morning. It took Scott and I 7hrs 15 min to summit from Monte Rosa hut. Most decended down the east side between Nordend and Dufour, though we took the west ridge back due to a traffic jam. The down hill was long but we could glissade a bit. After a beer and some recovery time, we hiked back to Rotenboden to get back to town. The hike back to Rotenboden felt MUCH MUCH longer than on the way to the hut!

Tips: definitely scout out the moraine and crevasses the day before you climb. the path to ob plattje goes straight up through the middle of the moraine. follow the cairns.

I have a much more detailed account, pics, and video of the climb on my blog, though it could be considered a spoiler, your choice. http://gabeharley.blogspot.com
Posted Aug 27, 2007 1:05 pm

jvdmDufourspitze  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2007

It is a long way from the Monte Rosa hut but the summit is so nice! Descended by the fixed rope on the east face. This contributed to the fun. I don't think the summit ridge is very nice on a windy day.
Posted Aug 19, 2007 5:36 am

mulidivaresetake a dream  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2007

I have planned this climbing for many years. And every year there was something wrong that did not allowed me to take the challange.
also this year it seemed to be another time the wrong time but....

From Monterosahutte toghether with Daniele and Carlo. 5 hours and 30 min.
Wonderfull day, perfect snow, no wind. We climbed the normal way from Monterosahutte and then we went down by the roops on the Silbersattle side. Very convinient

Valerio
Posted Jul 30, 2007 3:39 am

Griffithsfrom Capanna Margherita  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2005

Windy so the ridge was concerning but the rock on the ascent was good. Very enjoyable
Posted Jun 5, 2007 8:01 am

BritetteDufourspitze Traverse E to W  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 1996

Climbed the SE arete and descended the W arete as part of a single day traverse of Monte Rosa Group from Klein Matterhorn to Nordend.
Posted May 25, 2007 2:20 pm

toppertMarinelli-couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2004

Nice climb in the last days of the saison. From the Mrainelli-bivouac, across the Marinelli-couloir to the Dufourspitze, then down to Zermatt and hitchhiked back to our car near Mattmark-stausee (near Saas).

Hit&Run from Holland when the conditions where perfect. I climbed with Maarten Pluymaekers.
Posted Nov 16, 2006 12:40 pm

DoJoRoute Climbed - from Silbersattel  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 13, 1997

Ascend via Silbersattel from Monte Rosa Hütte
Posted Nov 12, 2006 5:15 pm

David_Hollandtraverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2006

Climb it from Zumstein, make traverse to the Monte Rosa hut, great day! Second time on the summit.
Posted Jul 15, 2006 2:40 pm

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