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Almanzor Climber's Log
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Tomek LodowyPortilla del Crampon after Ballesteros traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2009

I reached the summit of Almanzor yesterday around 1pm after some adventures while approaching the ridge by wrong way...I climbed one pass in Los Ballesteros area first and then I had to traverse rocky slopes(goats everywhere!) under Almanzor's north face towards the main couloir. Interesting, a bit demanding last meters below the summit, good conditions and impressive views. First time in mountains of Spain, so far so good!
Posted Sep 28, 2009 4:42 pm

RicardoEchanove1Route Climbed: From Navacepeda de Tormes along the  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2008

It was very tired but beautiful go along the "Garganta de Gredos"

More that 2000 metres desnivel and 12hours 30min (all the excursion)
Goats in the summit.
The excursion which has left me the best souvenir so far.

Posted Aug 28, 2008 3:57 pm

Rafa BartolomeBeautiful Gredos
Date Climbed: Apr 30, 2008

It was a lot of snow is the cirque of Gredos, with good conditions to the first meters of channel of 30º but very difficult in the last meters near of the summit. The snow in the area of portilla de crampon was very hard with ice in a exposed step-crossing (dangerous) and we don't climbed the summit for 50 meters. In the descent we climbed Morezon in the return to Plataforma de Gredos. We will return another day to climb the summit, probably without snow (we took a lot of weight in the haversack with helmet, two ice-axes, rope, harness,...) but the cirque was beautiful with brilliant white colors in our first visit to this wonderful place.
Posted May 2, 2008 4:18 pm

pabloRoute Climbed: Norte & final deviation Eastward  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 11, 2007

At 8am my friend Alvaro and I departed to climb the North Face of Almanzor. The first key corridor was with ice, we inserted some ice screws and proceeded to the final corridor. It's condition was bad so we traversed diagonally to the left to make final climbing through rock, making summit at 11h30am. Excellent climb and day, although a bit windy.
Posted Mar 15, 2007 8:12 am

Joker VkMityc mountain  Sucess!

After four travels to this mountain I win its summit with my friends and our dogs, gone betrer than us.
Posted Jan 24, 2007 4:36 pm

John ClimberMisty Almanzor  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 13, 2006

Solo. Misty and windy ascend from Ref. Elola (7:45 a.m.) to the summit (9:20 a.m.) over the Normal route (Portilla del Crampón). The first one to summit that day. Snow conditions (from 2.200 mtrs aprox.)were good due to the lack of sunshine and the early hour of the climb. I was not needing crampons till 30 meters before the Portilla (saddle). The day was warm: 10 degrees celsius at 7:00 a.m. at the hut (1.950 m). The return went over the same route. The weather was not good enough to proceed to La Galana. The snow on descend was soft and hollow.

Climbed again the october, 5th, with a girlfriend. A lot of stones compared to the last time there. And many people on the summit. Clear weather!
Posted May 15, 2006 6:24 pm

pabloRoute Climbed: Portilla del Crampon  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 24, 2005

I climb with my brother Gabi directly from Plataforma starting 6am, arriving to summit at 10h30 and going back to Plataforma at 13h30. We celebrate with our father "Suso", who is waiting in Hoyo del Espino a close nice town where we have some beers and a copious meal.
A beautiful day, a beautiful ascent, a perfect closure.
Posted Mar 10, 2006 2:46 pm

CaralynrRoute Climbed: Portilla del Crampon Date Climbed: 1 January 2006

Had to retreat 54m from summit due to worsening weather and strenghthening winds. Full report in "trip reports"
Posted Jan 11, 2006 12:21 pm

Jon CrucesRoute Climbed: Up - Portilla Bermeja, Down - Portilla Crampón Date Climbed: Oct. 13th 2005  Sucess!

Me and friend Mateo (we are both 4 years old) climbed to the top on a very nice day!!
Posted Oct 7, 2005 1:51 am

Diego SahagúnRoute Climbed: Portilla de los Cobardes Normal Date Climbed: 26 June 2005  Sucess!

Nadie and me reached the summit of Almanzor on this nice route after having done a windy vivy near Charco de la Esmeralda. On the descent we returned to Plataforma de Gredos, where we had parked my car.
Posted Aug 21, 2005 9:09 pm

Thomas GurviezDate Climbed: August 2002  Sucess!

La Galana (2564 m.) climbed on august 2002, very close to Almanzor but less crowded



Refreshing moutain day after the overheated Madrid and Segovia !
Posted Feb 7, 2005 3:55 am

Dan BaileyRoute Climbed: via portilla de los crampones Date Climbed: March 2003  Sucess!

Great neve, terrible weather
Posted Feb 10, 2004 11:28 am

TodoVerticalRoute Climbed: North Face Classic (60ºSnow, 80ºice, 200m) Date Climbed: Jan 9th, 2004  Sucess!

We never hoped for the route to be in such good conditions. We had south winds for a few warm days, and a lot of ice had melted from the ice-falls. Good and busy saturday. If you need info of the route email us.
Posted Jan 11, 2004 6:05 pm

TodoVerticalRoute Climbed: Ascend via Portilla Bermeja, descent via Portilla del Crampon Date Climbed: Feb 8th, 2003  Sucess!

I left early from Plataforma, just before seven o´clock. I reached the hut by 8:15, and had a coffe there. It had snowed the previous day, no tracks were to follow. After reaching Portilla Bermeja going around the Risco the la Portilla del Crampon was a little airy. It was about 10:30 by the time I standed in the summit. The way back was via Portilla del Crampon, descending the gully when others were going up was not pleasant. Got to the hut, had another coffe and by 3:00 back in plataforma. A good day.
Posted Feb 8, 2003 4:12 pm

Diego SahagúnRoute Climbed: Portilla del Crampón Normal from Plataforma Date Climbed: October 12, 2002  Sucess!

Once again I've climbed Almanzor by this route, when you climb with team mates you must to do what everybody wants to. So on saturday we left Refugio de Reguero Llano placed on Prado de las Pozas. The day started foggy but at 10 h, when we started to ascend it was sunny. Soon we reached Los Barrerones, where some trail works had been happening, even a wood bridge had been built over the stream coming from Fuente de los Cavadores. The trail now surround this water source and another drinking fountain has been built on Los Barrerones W slope.



After taking some photos we descended to Laguna Grande so 2 hours after the start we was at Refugio Elola eating some power bars and chocolate. A man who wanted to climb Almanzor met us meanwhile some women would await him in the hut. This man would overtake us because we ascended slowly but when we descended from Almanzor we met him anew because he had mistaked Almanzor for Risco de la Portilla del Crampón. He descended soon to meet his team mates. Meanwhile, 2 of us climbed Cuerno del Almanzor after having a meal. There wasn't as people as in August so the climb to Almanzor was in 2 hours. The snow patch under Portilla Bermeja was icy and some last week snow reminds were near Almanzor summit.



The descent of Almanzor was by the same route but once on Hoya Antón we followed the stream passing La Esmeralda pond. We didn't rest at Laguna Grande or Refugio Elola because we had rested at the foot of Almanzor. So we did at Los Barrerones when the temperature became lower with some wind guts. The descent to Refugio de Reguero Llano was quick, and then my cousin and me acompanied a friend to Plataforma because he wanted to leave. I left my plastic boots, poles, crampons and took my trekking boots. Finally we both ascended wearing headlamps to Refugio de Reguero Llano. Total: 11 h; 1,295 m ascent; 1,295 m descent. Tmin = 11 ºC.
Posted Oct 14, 2002 2:57 pm

flearretaRoute Climbed: Risco de la Portilla del Crampon Date Climbed: September 21, 2002

Miserable day to begin Autumm. Mostly cloudy and cold when we started our approach from Plataforma at 8:30AM. We arrived Refugio Elola 2:30 hours later in the middle of light rain. Rested for about an hour and started to climb at 12PM. An hour later when I arrived Risco de la Portilla de Crampon, a heavy fog cut visibility to no more than 10-20 meters away. Rain and wind also picked up. Started traversing the ridge for about 1:30 hour in the middle of this dense fog and rain. Without knowing the place beforehand and unable to locate Almanzor's summit I turned back the ridge over my steps. Visibility at this point was minimal. Arrved the Col to descend to Refugio Elola only by thorough compass navigation. By this time, it was really pouring! The rock started to get dangerously wet. Back to Refugio Elola five hours later from my departure. Rested for about an hour and started hiking back to Plataforma in the middle of heavy rain. Crossing the stream wthout soaking my boots was impossible, as the rain greatly increased its flow. Took me another 2:30 hours to reach Plataforma. To summarize, very beautiful place but you can easily spend a miserable day in lousy weather.
Posted Sep 27, 2002 7:21 am

Diego SahagúnRoute Climbed: Portilla del Crampón Normal descending to Plataforma by Portilla de los Cobardes, Cuchillar de Ballesteros, El Gargantón and Refugio Elola Date Climbed: August 17th, 2002  Sucess!

Two cousins and me climbed Almanzor yesterday after vivouaquing at Laguna Grande shore. On August 16th, we started late in the evening from Plataforma. After Los Barrerones (nice sunset) we were wearing frontal lights, 3 hours-walk (total time) conduced us to our vivi where we had dinner until sleep. The night was warm (16 ºC) but the wind guts were moderate lashing us from behind. The next day we kept waiting a friend of us till 12 PM but he didn't come so we decided to climb Almanzor ourselves. It was hot, first we kept our rucksacks at Refugio Elola, where we filled our canteens. The ascent was fair but many people, part of them inexperienced, were following the route. Be careful at Portilla del Crampón because climbers drop rocks. On the upper section we had to wait people to descend from the summit. Then I climbed Cuerno del Almanzor. Soon a shout alerted us, it came from our friend. He was doing Integral (turn) del Circo de Gredos, we joined him to descend by El Venteadero passing Cuchillar de Ballesteros. We took a bath in a puddle at El Gargantón reaching Refugio Elola in the evening. We left the hut after a break pushing forward up to Los Barrones. Descending the slope we joined 2 kids and father because they hadn't torches so we went with them back to Plataforma. Nice male wild goats near Laguna Grande and Los Barrerones in the evening of the last day: 10h 30'
Posted Aug 18, 2002 11:37 am

ChusRoute Climbed: Portilla del Crampón Date Climbed: June 29, 2002  Sucess!

After leaving the car on Plataforma de Gredos and walk for 2 1/2 h to arrive Laguna Grande, we started the slow climb to Almanzor's peak under a terrific summer sun. About 14:15 h we reach the summit, clear view over Circo de Gredos but cloudy to the South. Way down and night on Elola's refugee, to coming back to Plataforma on sunday morning.
Posted Jul 1, 2002 12:41 pm

OBIJUANKENOBI71Route Climbed: Portilla del crampón Date Climbed: Agosto 2001  Sucess!

El Almanzor es una cumbre a la cual he subido en 5 ocasiones. La primera de ellas hace unos 18 años, en una de las excursiones que organizaba el grupo gredos de montaña de Arenas de San Pedro y de las que era asiduo.

Esta última vez subí en una pequeña excursión que hicimos con mi mujer y unos amigos. Llegamos por la carretera de Hoyos del Espino hasta la Plataforma de Gredos, donde empezamos la marcha hacia el prado de las pozas, zona a partir de la cual se empina el camino hasta llegar a la loma de los Barrerones, donde se agradece un trago de agua fresca en la fuente de los cavadores. Siguiendo el camino, al ver el pluviométro se nos presenta la impresionante vista del circo de gredos con el pico Almanzor dominándolo. A partir de aquí descendemos dejando a la izquierda el Morezón hasta llegar a la Laguna Grande de Gredos, desde donde subimos al Almanzor por la ruta de la Portilla del crampón, la cual es la mas frecuentada por su escasa dificultad y además por ser el punto mas directo si subimos desde la laguna grande de gredos.

Ni que decir tiene la impresionante vista que tenemos en la cumbre, donde junto al vértice geodésico en un día claro contemplamos la vista de tres comunidades, Castilla La Mancha, Castilla-León y Extremadura.





(The Almanzor is a summit to which I have ascended in 5 occasions. The first of them about 18 years ago, in one of the trips that organized the group Gredos de montaña de Arenas de San Pedro and of those that it was assiduous.

This last time I ascended in a small trip that we made with my wife and some friends. We arrive for the highway of Hoyos del Espino until the Plataforma de Gredos, where we begin the march toward the prado de las pozas, area starting from which zooms the road until arriving to the hill of the Barrerones, where we is appreciated a swig of fresh water in the source of the diggers. Following the road, when seeing the pluviometer is presented the impressive view of the gredos circus with the summit Almanzor dominating him. Starting from here we descend leaving to the left the Morezón until arriving at the Big Lagoon of Gredos, from where we ascend to the Almanzor for the route of the Portilla del crampón, which is the but frequented by their scarce difficulty and also to be the point but direct if we ascend from the big lagoon of gredos.

Neither that to say has the impressive view that we have in the summit, where next to the geodesic vertex in a clear day contemplate the view of three communities, Castilla La Mancha, Castila-León and Extremadura.)
Posted Jun 11, 2002 10:04 am

Diego SahagúnRoute Climbed: Portilla del Crampón Normal Date Climbed: 1978/14 October 2000  Sucess!

I don´t remind very much the first time that I reached the summit of Almanzor, but it could be on Summer 1978 with my father, when I was 8 years-old. I´ve must climb it near 10 times, in most cases by this route. The last time that I went there was on Autumn 2000. A cousin and me left the little hut of Reguero Llano (1.910 m) on Prado de las Pozas, after hide one of our back-packs into the bushes because nobody kept it. There were no free places on Refugio Elola that night. Walked up to Los Barrerones (2.183 m), descent to Laguna Grande and climbed Almanzor, then a little descent and climbed to Cuerno del Almanzor (2.538 m). Then joined to a new friend wich came from Cuchillar (ridge) de Ballesteros. He wanted to go rounding Circo de Gredos by its ridges but he were tired and joined us, back to Laguna Grande, Los Barrerones, Refugio de Reguero Llano and Plataforma.
Posted Feb 17, 2002 11:06 am

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