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Palisades > Temple Crag > Climber's Log|
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| Misha | Route Climbed: Venusian Blind Date Climbed: August 18, 2005  | |
| After getting off route into a 5.10+ terrain, Mike Ybarra and I eventually found the right way. Made it to the summit at 6pm, just in time to come down to the easier terrain before dark. Upper exposed pitches are wild!! Great route; will do again. | |
| Posted Aug 22, 2005 12:46 pm | ||
| Matthew Holliman | Route Climbed: Contact Crack / SE Face Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2005 | |
| Kind of embarrassing to be signing a summit log for this peak via Contact Crack, but oh well... about 40 feet of awkward but easy and fun scrambling up the chimney from the pass, then hundreds of feet of talus, and then a short exposed class 2 catwalk to the summit. Not a classic climb. I should have followed my instincts and found a partner for Venusian Blind instead. Had planned to traverse to Gayley, but Bob bailed on me, and it looked like a several hour project with big epic potential. After descending the SE Face, that peak looked pretty close, and feelings of guilt led me to head over there to climb it anyway. Glad I did--it was way more fun than Temple Crag. | |
| Posted Aug 17, 2005 1:42 pm | ||
| stoneloan | Route Climbed: Sun Ribbon Arete and Moon Goddess Arete Date Climbed: aug 2000 and sept 2000 | |
| See trip reports | |
| Posted Jul 22, 2005 12:48 pm | ||
| physics | Route Climbed: Contact Pass Date Climbed: July 16, 2005 | |
| My buddy, his friend, and I were going to climb Middle Pal but my buddy cancelled on me while I was driving to the trailhead. I decided to solo Middle Pal instead of turning around. Once parked, I realized that I forgot to pack socks so I did the whole hike in Sandals so I wouldn't blister my delicate feet in shoes without socks. Walking in with headlamps entering the trailhead at 1:35 AM, I followed the North Fork of Big Pine Creek thinking I was following the South Fork. I couldn't see anything with my headlamp so I must have missed the sign. Anyway, woke up thinking I would be at the base of Middle Pal but all I saw was Temple Crag. To salvage the weekend, I decided to go up Temple Crag but did not have a clue about any of the "soloable" routes on this mountains. Contact Pass looked good so I went for it and made it. It is class 4; ok weekend. | |
| Posted Jul 17, 2005 5:30 pm | ||
| aleasure | Route Climbed: Sun Ribbon Arete Date Climbed: 7-7-2005 | |
| Felt more like a ridge route more than a true rock climb. The tyrolean makes it worthwhile . very long climb. 7 hrs to the summit. 16.5 hrs car to car. | ||
| Posted Jul 14, 2005 5:18 pm | ||
| aleasure | Route Climbed: Dark Star Date Climbed: 8-29-03 | |
| A long route with good climbing. Nine hours to the summit. | ||
| Posted Jul 14, 2005 5:14 pm | ||
| Shaase | Route Climbed: Sun Ribbon Arete Date Climbed: July 7, 2005 | |
| Perfect day minus skeeters and mule crap on trail. No snow 't'll base of Dark Star. Used a 100' line to ease simul-climbing. Could have been even a bit shorter and made all raps etc. Good car to car route! Stephan | |
| Posted Jul 12, 2005 12:43 am | ||
| Deb | Route Climbed: Moon Goddess Arete Date Climbed: 3 July 2005 | |
| Perfect weather and lots of time on our hands, Dave and I made camp at Third Lake on Saturday, stashed climbing gear at the base of climb and stayed up late like teenagers at a slumber party. We missed the mongo rockfall on Saturday evening, but passed the torso-sized chunk on the way to the start Sunday morning. On the wall at 0700 and the simul-climbing was awesome fun! Time to get serious at the first tower but the route continued very pleasantly until I hit my first struggle with crappy crack too big for fist jamming and too little energy for lie-backing and pulling my dead ass onto the mantle. By this time we were out of water and chasing sunlight, so Dave took the point on that pitch. Luckily we topped out around 1930 and rappelled into Contact Pass before sunset. Plodded/skid through snow with headlamps, eating chunks of frozen dirt as we went, and finally hit our camp at 2215. Had dinner in bed and dreamed for a few hours before the birds cracked their alarm clocks and a huge snow slough on Temple Crag woke me up Monday morning. Great way to celebrate our country's freedom by experiecing America, the beautiful. | |
| Posted Jul 7, 2005 1:44 pm | ||
| jtschanz | Route Climbed: Venusian Blind Arete Date Climbed: June 24, 2005 | |
| Climbed with Keith G. - very fun climb with awesome views and great exposure. We got a late start due to some clouds and thunder early in the morning, but we completed the route in less than 8 hours and were back at camp just after dark. Good way to cap off a great Sierra vacation! | |
| Posted Jul 6, 2005 11:39 am | ||
| Johnhl94563 | Route Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: Summer 1977 | |
| Well I had meant to put this in a long time ago but forgot. I did this climb with my old friend Jim Gaines. It was a long climb (we were slow) and we ended up getting to the summit just before dark. We didn't know the way down and didn't want to wander off in the dark, so we did a bivy on the summit. I had my down parka and a pack that fit over my legs. Jim didn't have anything for his legs so we wrapped the rope around him like a cocoon. Lucky for us it wasn't a severe night and didn't get too cold. With the morning light we easily found the rappell spot and headed on down. A very memorable climb. | |
| Posted Jun 19, 2005 7:43 pm | ||
| thomaskeefer | Route Climbed: Dark Star (IV 5.10) Date Climbed: October 2004 | |
| Great Day... thanks Mike and welcome home!! | |
| Posted Apr 15, 2005 7:17 pm | ||
| Scott Pierce | Route Climbed: Moon Goddess Arete Date Climbed: October 2004 | |
| Not signing the TRUE summit log, only the route log (I know, I know)--partner bailed on going for the summit, as it was dark, and windy, and I was only too willing to share his moral parachute--but I DO recommend the route. It's 5.7+ and Grade IV. It's a pretty long climb, even if you solo and simul the first few pitches. The hardest part, though, was the cl3 traverse on the north side of the second tower--loose, downward-sloping blocks and shingles covered in wet ice with a frosting of rotten snow, later in the day, gloomy and cold. A guide once told me that he thought Temple was cursed, and I was starting to believe when my feet skittered out from beneath my shivering butt! In August, 2004, backed off the Venusian Blind, at the top of Pitch 5. Combo of rockfall cutting the rope almost dead center, slow team, and bad vibes. | |
| Posted Jan 23, 2005 2:01 am | ||
| Steve Larson | Route Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: July 1978 | |
| Had an interesting adventure with automobile-sized rockfall on the way up. Scared my partner, so we ended up compounding our problem by going extra sloooowww for the rest of the climb. Bivvied on a crappy sloping ledge not far from the summit. Cursed my partner once again for being so damn warm-blooded, then continued to the summit at first light. Well, I hardly remember the suffering now. It's a beautiful peak, great views all around. | |
| Posted Nov 5, 2004 9:15 pm | ||
| Sam Mills | Route Climbed: Moon Goddess Arete Date Climbed: 9/16/04 | |
| As mentioned below, with Doug Artman. Sustained moderate climbing with great exposure! We left our camp at third lake at 5:45am and were back at 4:00pm for a 10 hour 15 minutes round trip. We missed Peter Croft at the summit by about 15 minutes. We also found some big fat chicks panties in the register box....or were they Peter's? | |
| Posted Sep 21, 2004 11:44 pm | ||
| dug | Beat Feet Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2008 | |
| Car to car solo, Venusian blind. 07/02/2008 Probably better than moon goddess. Moon Goddess Arete Date Climbed: 9/16/2004 Fun climb with Sam Mills. Waved to Peter Croft over on Venusian Blind. | |
| Posted Sep 17, 2004 10:12 pm | ||
| rpc | Route Climbed: Moon Goddess Arete Date Climbed: September 5, 2004 | |
| My wife and I were looking for a good weather escape from the northwest for Labor Day. After changing our minds over and over (bothering good SP folks for beta on various climb ideas), finally zeroed in on Temple Crag. Easy hike in on day 1. Climb on day 2. 3 parties on Sun Ribbon, 2 parties on Venusian. We had Moon Goddess to ourselves. Rock-solid snow (~60 feet of it) at base of route - crampons were useful (can toss them back to talus before starting climb). Simulclimbed up to First Tower in 3 stretched pitches. Messed up after the Ibrium Tower traverse and went up a scary loose (& fairly hard for me) arete. Rapped 20' back down into the correct gully but 1.5 hrs or so have been wasted. Above First Tower, we roughly followed Supertopo pitches (with some linking). Darkness caught us while walking off. Had a hell of a time trying to find our snow gear stashed at base of the climb in the moonless night. Finally gave up. Next morning, got a predawn wake up at Second Lk. so that I could run back to the base and retrieve our snow junk before hiking out. Fun, mostly easy route with good rock (so long as you stay ON route). As to its rating?? Somewhere between 7 and 8 I'd guess though the potentially 5.8 section is trivially short. | |
| Posted Sep 8, 2004 5:12 pm | ||
| poorboy44 | Route Climbed: Sun Ribbon Arete Date Climbed: October 2000 | |
| The approach to Third Lake only takes 2-3 hours and is tame. This route is LONG! | |
| Posted Jul 23, 2004 2:28 pm | ||
| poorboy44 | Route Climbed: Dark Star Date Climbed: July 17, 2004 | |
| We got messed up at the start -- to begin, walk to the far right edge of the ledge, THEN take the left-most of the 2 right facing corners (turns into a big corner on the second pitch). We started too far left on another right-facing corner, and had to rappel. The Croft topo is incorrect, the first pitch is the crux, 10b ish not hard but technical. Because of our late start we ended up taking the 3rd class escape on the final tower, ~8 hrs climbing time. | |
| Posted Jul 21, 2004 6:47 pm | ||
| brandon | Route Climbed: Dark Star V 5.10 Date Climbed: June 2004 | |
| Not as long as they say, we belayed 12 pitches and soloed a lot of stuff no harder than 5.4, but sometimes loose. 10c for the first pitch, then nothing harder that 9, several places where you can climb 9 finger cracks that could be avoided otherwise. Nothing harder than 5.8 on upper tower, what 10 roof? 9 hours.... | |
| Posted Jul 6, 2004 6:43 pm | ||
| sierradiscgolfer | Route Climbed: South East Face via Contact Pass Date Climbed: August 14, 1978 | |
| Just adding some old summits. Did this with my Dad as a teen coming up from Third Lake. Found the correct chute to make this a mostly class 2 with some 3 climb. | |
| Posted Jun 2, 2004 3:28 pm | ||
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