
| We left (a little too late) from a camp well below the lakes. The route had three entertaining mixed pitches with snow slogging in between. My partner and I soloed most of the route and only roped up for the rock bands. It seems that many parties use this strategy. Unfortunately, my partner and I topped out in a lightning/blizzard storm and had some serious difficulties in finding the rappel route down the normal route. The word from other climbers is that the rappels are completely wired. However, we discovered that you can rap down just about any part of the face surrounding the normal route in a blizzard. The spindrift and funky rap anchors made the decent rather invigorating. I don’t recommend our decent strategy, but if you find yourself in a blizzard, maybe you will find some of our anchors…I would back them up! |