
| Climbed the NW ice couloir from a camp at the Lower Saddle. The rock portion down low was more complicated than I expected, possibly due to routefinding errors. The ice was of good quality, and steep enough to keep your interest (~70 degrees at one or two points). August seemed a bit late for this climb, as it was almost melted out completely in one section, and a lot of rotten rock was exposed on the sides of the gully. Protection was fairly difficult to find. |