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El Capitan Climber's Log
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DigglerThere's a reason it's called The Big Stone...
Date Climbed: Oct 2, 2009

Rob & I finally got on The Nose, perhaps the greatest climb I've ever been on... Led Pine Line & set up a line on Thursday night. After the first day we set up camp on the Stovelegs. Second night found us atop Texas Flake (Rob led & fixed up to the top of Boot Flake). Storm started around 2.00 (really glad we decided to put up the fly!!) & lasted through the afternoon on Sunday. As we had only 2 more days' provisions & weather was uncertain for the next day or 2, we bailed. Nonetheless, it was truly a memorable experience, & absolutely amazing to be on this storied climb & cliff... Exhausting, taxing, huge, unique, & memorable are some of the words I'd use to describe this. Rob did some great leading, & I plan to be more prepared the next time. Ah'll be back!!!!
Posted Oct 6, 2009 6:50 pm

rpcLurking Fear  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2009

Very satisfying even it is the easiest wall line on El Cap. Posted a tr.
Posted Aug 23, 2009 7:20 pm

GroundControlDayhike from Tamarack Flat Campground  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2009

Aside from hiking on a logging/fire road for the first 3.3 miles (ugh), it was an absolutely beautiful hike. You wind your way through lush croppings of trees and a fairly descent elevation gain. I've hiked up to upper Yosemite falls, and it's not as bad of an elevation gain. Terrific weather on this day, 78 and sunny. ~17 miles roundtrip.
Posted Jul 10, 2009 3:03 am

fortybelowtrail  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 1, 2009

Excellent views and alot of fun.
Posted Jun 2, 2009 11:56 pm

HuecoRatTriple Direct  Sucess!

Four wonderful, cool-weather days. Bivied at Mammoth, one pitch left of Camp IV, at Camp VI, and right beside the summit tree. What a fantastic adventure!
Posted Mar 3, 2009 11:37 am

FortMentalTriple Direct

Took the triple direct to avoid the crowds. But it wasn't crowded. Because it was 104 degrees in the valley! Next time I'm leaving the home-made portaledge and bringing beer.
Posted Jan 12, 2009 3:01 pm

The ChiefSeveral...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 28, 1985

Trips up and on the Big Stone. Some with very fond memories.
Posted Dec 6, 2008 8:41 am

IngmanThe Nose  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 27, 2005

3 days w/ T. Melin
Posted Aug 23, 2008 5:40 pm

Sierra Ledge RatTriple Direct  Sucess!

With my buddy Young Chu
Posted Jul 17, 2008 11:07 pm

Fredd C DobbsYFT  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2008

Long & arduous day hike for me- but worth the effort.
Posted Jun 13, 2008 10:47 am

96avs01Dayhike from the Valley  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2008

Took the upper Yosemite Falls trail from the valley. Great views, and the crowds thinned once past the Falls overlook. Total mileage for the day was ~20 miles with 4K vert., great way to cap off 10 days climbing in the Sierra/Inyo-White Mtns.

Trip Report
Posted Jun 6, 2008 7:44 pm

fatdadVarious routes climbed: been too long  Sucess!

1983: Zodiac. I was a nineteen year old punk and dragged my 17 year old buddy with me. Litte did I know our other buddies were betting him cams that we'd bail, which he only confessed to me halfway up. Lots of hard thin nailing back then. Everything else I've done since has felt easy in comparison. By far my biggest breakthrough in terms of what I could achieve, both as a climber and in life.

1991: The Shield. What can you say? It's the Shield.

1992: West Face. A long day. Awesome to be able to look up from the base and hope you're going to be able to cover that much ground in a day (actually, for us, a little over a day).

1995: Pacific Ocean Wall. Great route. A few tricky sections but not nearly as hard as I thought it would be. Having grown up reading Greg Child's account in Mountain magazine about the second ascent, it felt awesome to climb such a historic route.

Bailed more times than I can count: three times off the Nose (twice because of people poaching our lines, once after getting rained on in the Stovelegs), snowed off of Lurking Fear and stormed off from the top of pitch 5 of Mescalito.
Posted Jun 5, 2008 2:19 pm

Peter GramSalathe Wall  Sucess!
Climbed Lurking Fear over Halloween 2005, and the Salathe Wall in May of 2006. The headwall of the Salathe Wall is the most exposure I've ever experienced.
Posted Jan 14, 2008 12:21 am

bluefunkBig Stone  Sucess!

Climbed East Butt and the Trip, what a amazing piece of stone!!!
Posted Dec 20, 2007 1:25 pm

Peak BaguetteRoute: Via Upper Yose Falls  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 10, 2007

I heard this route was the "easy" way... gotta love it when 16 miles and 4K of elevation gain is called the "easy" way ;)
Posted Nov 11, 2007 7:42 pm

Tom FralichEast Buttress (IV 5.10b, 13 pitches)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 9, 2007

Climbed this route with MichaelJ during our week in Yosemite. We started hiking at 5:30AM and were on the route at 7AM. The first pitch was a lot of fun and I had an easier time than expected in the chimney. The crux on pitch 2 also went smoothly and we cruised all the way through the roof on pitch 7. Pitches 8 and 9 were the hardest for me. I led pitches 1,4,5,7,9,12,13. We topped out at 4:30PM and did the descent down the East Ledges in about 2.5 hours, reaching the car just as it got dark. It was probably the biggest rock climb that I've done.

El Cap Base Routes:

Little John Right (5.8, 3 pitches) -- October 11, 2008 -- Pretty stout for the grade, with tricky climbing on the traverse on P2. The ledge at the top is a sweet spot for sure.
Posted Oct 10, 2007 4:39 pm

poorboy44Various

1999 - Nose w/ Joe Crowe

2000 - North America Wall w/ Victor from Spain

2000 - Zodiac w/ Luc

2001 - Tangerine Trip w/ Dave Potter

2001 - Shield w/ Jo from Wales

2003 - Salathe Wall w/ Stephen Quale

2007 - Nose IAD w/ Josh Higgins (22 hours)
Posted Sep 18, 2007 5:42 pm

Bubba SuessWe cheated.  Sucess!

Ok, so my cousin Phil and I are not climbers, but we did reach the summit from Tioga Road. We saw a trail marked on the map from 120 to Tamarack Falt which turned out not to be there and we had to route find our way there. Spent the night at Ribbon Meadows and reached the top the following morning. All in all a great trip!
Posted Mar 9, 2007 10:10 pm

highicethe last wall  Sucess!

Taking time off of climbing to spend time with family prior to moving to montana I was given an oportunity to do the cap. After only 25 days of training, we set out to do the nose, but hate crowds so continued to hike around the corner to check out the Lurking Fear route. Jackie Florin was rope-soloing it and was on the 4th pitch (she later said Han's was home watching the new baby). We had it to ourselves all 5 days. Jackie left us in the dust on day 2. We were solid but slow. Drank all 80 lbs of water and were glad to have brought so much. Not enough water was the reason why 3 parties per day were bailing off the nose route!
Posted Jan 30, 2007 7:07 pm

FlexE. Butt & Salathe Wall  Sucess!

E. Butt in Oct/02 with Jeff K. and then the Salathe Wall in Jun/06 with Jeff K. and Hayden D.
Posted Jan 21, 2007 9:52 pm

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