| Welcome to SP! - Sign-In | Register | ||
| | |
| MbPost.com -- It's SP for Mountain Biking! | ||
Southern Sierra > The Needles > Climber's Log|
|
|
| Tom Fralich | See Below  Date Climbed: Oct 9, 2009 | |
| Tree Route (5.6, 4 pitches) -- October 9,2009 -- Mary and I headed to Dome Rock after a week of night shifts, planning to have an easy run up Tree Route. When we got to the base of the route, we found a group of 10+ teenagers, with 3+ guides, who were planning to take all of the kids up the route. I asked if we might go ahead and they begrudgingly agreed. So we blasted off and had a great time. The whole thing took us +/- 1 hour. White Punks on Dope (III 5.8+, 6 pitches) -- October 10, 2009 -- Mary and I did this on our first trip to The Needles. We got a bit off-route on the approach, but we reached the base in about 1.25 hours and started up behind another group. The climbing on the first 4 pitches was stellar, but I found the climbing on the bolted pitch to be horrifying. The sparse bolting and fear-factor on this pitch detracted from an otherwise well-protected and very fun climb. The finger crack after the bolted pitch was great fun. The descent was long and steep. | |
| Posted Oct 12, 2009 2:18 am | ||
| KVHiker | The Lookout was Closed #2 Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2009 | |
| This is my second time going to the Needles, but the lookout was closed this time. The views were great as usual, and it always amazes me that people climb up those rocks. Hats off to you climber folks. Photos | |
| Posted Aug 13, 2009 1:02 pm | ||
| Twills | CA granite at it's best... | |
| One of my favorite all-time areas... If only I weren't always on the EAST side of the Sierra...! | |
| Posted Sep 24, 2007 3:20 pm | ||
| hockeyman | Igor / Thin Ice Date Climbed: Sep 15, 1999 | |
| Good routes, magical place. Very cool. Loved it and want to go back. Had bear issues in camp but no big deal. Been there twice. One of the best places in the Sierra's. | |
| Posted Mar 7, 2007 4:41 pm | ||
| robojeda | The Magician "Black Magic/Strange Brew" Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2006 | |
| What an awsome place, classic climb, and Tasty cookies! | |
| Posted Sep 6, 2006 5:22 am | ||
| kngalaric | Stairs are a piece of cake | |
| Fantastic views and Margee the host is a wonderful lady! | |
| Posted Aug 9, 2006 1:45 am | ||
| asmrz | Hermit Spire, Brain Tune-Up, 5.11C Date Climbed: Aug 4, 1991 | |
| High up on the left side of the East Face of Hermit is very prominent thin finger crack. If you look up the face from the Falcon cracks area, you cannot miss this crack. It is the most prominent, visible and exciting feature of the East Face. In 1989, Miguel Carmona and I climbed up to this crack via the easy 4th class ramp that splits the lower East Face apron. We were only able to get up about 30 feet up the crack as we only had RPs for thin crack protection and this vertical crack looked totally owesome, scary and difficult. Upon return to LA I saw a TV program on brain stimulation by electrodes that provided some relief from "unreasonable" fear!? Exactly what we needed! Hence the name "Brain Tune-Up". Miguel brought Jim Mathews and my new set of Lowe Balls to the crack in June of 1990 and Jim was able to climb the 120 feet of finger crack at 5.11C. They rapped from the top of the pitch exhausted from the effort. On August 4th. 1991, Miguel and I returned and finished bolting the upper face and crack (10a) that later reaches the upper Charlie Knapp Route and follows it to the top. All bolts are 1/4 inch, drilled on lead. If you are into thin finger crack climbing, this is trully a great route that can be well protected by micro cams. | |
| Posted May 4, 2006 5:41 pm | ||
| asmrz | Hermit Spire, European Blend, 5.9 Date Climbed: Jul 15, 1990 | |
| Miguel Carmona and I did the FA of this (dare I say) clean, smooth, fun face in 1990. Start at the wide gully that also houses the start of the Beckey South Face but after climbing the left side of the gully for about 30 feet, cross to the right and find a line of bolts (actually just three of them) going up and right on the apron. The climbing is very sporting 5.8 and ends in a small depression in the middle of the apron (50 meter rope). The next pitch (3 bolts) continues up the narrowing apron (5.8) and ends at the 4th class ledge allowing escape right and down. Above the left terminus of the ledge is a steep and prominent buttress. Climb up the buttress (2 bolts) to reach a hand crack and 2 bolt belay above. Walk the easy but thin ledge right and climb the obvious corner up and left (5.9). Two exit pitches (5.6 and 5.6) or 10A and 10B will get you to the summit. All bolts are 1/4 inch, drilled from natural stances on the lead. The route has just enough pro to be sporting, but please be sure you are comfortable on moderate runouts at this rating. | |
| Posted May 4, 2006 5:19 pm | ||
| asmrz | Hermit Spire, The Snowman, 5.10B, | |
| Miguel Carmona and I climbed the prominent crack and face just right of the existing Herb Laeger route "The Falcon" in 1989 (I think). Start about 15 feet to the right of the Falcon and climb knobby face (5.8) to a bolt about 20 feet up. Make a move(10A) to the left, reach the crack and climb it to a good belay and a ledge (10B). From the ledge climb slightly right and up on 10B face to the base of the apron mid way up. Climb the left edge of a serrated flake and face climb by the left side of a prominent roof spliting the face above you (tricky 10a). Another pitch or two lead to the summit. Very good, clean climbing at sustained 5.9 and 5.10. All bolts are 1/4 inch and were hand drilled from free stances on the lead. | |
| Posted May 4, 2006 5:04 pm | ||
| tarol | Route Climbed: The easy way! The stairs :) Date Climbed: November 22, 2003 | |
| This was a longer excursion than it would normally be to hike to the Needles Lookout because it was November and the Needles Road was already closed due to snow. Me and 3 friends hiked from the Western Divide Hwy to the Lookout and camped at the Trailhead overnight. It was very cold out there but we had a good time! Loved the clear winter views from the lookout... | |
| Posted Feb 9, 2006 2:00 pm | ||
| old5ten | Route Climbed: Igor Unchained, Thin Ice, Love Potion, etc. Date Climbed: several, 1993 to present | |
| What an awesome place. IMHO the cracks here rival anything the Valley has to offer. | |
| Posted Jan 9, 2006 5:10 am | ||
| Rileywyna | Route Climbed: Igor Unchained Date Climbed: aug 2000 | |
| Really outstanding climb. My first route after back surgery and my new partner Schaffer's first real crack climb ever...ya.he is bad ass | |
| Posted Dec 19, 2005 11:48 am | ||
| Kerstin | Route Climbed: Several great ones Date Climbed: Mostly mid-eighties | |
| We climbed the South Face of Hermit Spire on August 7, 1985. A few days later we climbed White Punks on Dope, which was an incredible route. That month we also climbed the first pitch of Igor Unchained, then traversed over to Airy Interlude...We did Black Magic...a great route. I also climbed Black Magic in July of 1999 with the same partner. In June of 1986 we climbed the South Face of the Warlock. In July of 1987 we climbed Spooky, which I remember being very enjoyable. In early August of 1987 we climbed Slight of Hand and Stars and Stripes forever. A wonderful place! | |
| Posted Sep 19, 2005 12:56 am | ||
| discdog | Route Climbed: White Punks on Dope Date Climbed: May 01, 2005 | |
| Amazing route. Great diversity of climbing. Must do but you should be pretty solid at the 5.8 grade in lieback/finger corner systems. | ||
| Posted May 3, 2005 6:28 pm | ||
| ksolem | Route Climbed: various Date Climbed: 1983 to present | |
| My first trip to the needles was in the spring of 1983. The road was closed so we hiked in with big packs and camped out in the formations. I fell in love with the place on the spot and have been back more times than I can recall, most recently last fall with Barbara Taylor - we did Inner Sanctum, a very enjoyable route on the Witch. Other personal favs are Ice Pirates, Atlantis, and Ankles Away... | |
| Posted Jan 11, 2005 7:37 pm | ||
| MelbaToast | Route Climbed: Igor Unchained Date Climbed: September 5, 2004 | |
| So I went back this year and did the damn thing! Yay! It was great. I did take a fall at the same place I had trouble last time, but I got back on flapper and all and finished. It felt fabulous. Hope it still counts if I took a fall. It wasn't a very big one and I had to climb the rest of the way with my fingers sticking together with dried blood. Ewww!!. The Needles is an incredible place. Can't wait to go back! The hike kicks my butt, especially on the way out. | |
| Posted Sep 6, 2004 12:57 pm | ||
| MelbaToast | Route Climbed: Hiked Date Climbed: June 2003 | |
| Couldn't pull off Igor Unchained but since it was within my first few months of starting to climb I guess it's not too humiliating. Did hike up to the top of the other side so I guess I summited. First time in my life I've been scared of heights. Amazing place. Next year I'll climb it and resign the log. | |
| Posted Jul 27, 2004 9:51 pm | ||
| Rob | Route Climbed: Various Date Climbed: 1990-00's | |
| Fav's...Airy interlude,Fancy free,Atlantis. | |
| Posted Jan 29, 2004 1:24 am | ||
| mtnfoto | Route Climbed: White Punks on Dope & Igor Unchained Date Climbed: 1992 & 1993 | |
| White Punks was classic, but Igor was the better climb. | ||
| Posted Jan 26, 2004 11:26 am | ||
| Eric Tipton | Route Climbed: "Airy Interlude" Witch Needle Date Climbed: July 2003 | |
| I climbed this excellent route with long time climbing partner Kenn Kenega. The first pitch was long, we had to simul-climb to get to the first belay with a 50 m rope. The second pitch was awesome a true classic. The last pitch was good,better climbing than the first pitch. Yahoo! finally got the summit of the Witch. | ||
| Posted Sep 10, 2003 12:06 am | ||
|
